new here and need help

[Guest ma10]

first of all, hello everyone. my name is mike and i'm from Tenn. the reason i've sought out this forum is because my uncle is rebuilding what he believes to be a 1948 ford V8 engine, for the '48 ford coupe he's restoring, and has run into a couple snags. he's a whole lot better at workin' on cars than workin' the computer, so i'm doing that for him, looking for info....not that i'm all that great at working the computer, but i learned while working on my old ferguson tractors (which is my hobby) that an awful lot of good info can be gathered from these forums and i'm hopin' "yall" can help us out. i posted over on the tech. forum and got directed here as well.

the first thing he'd like to establish is what year engine blocks he has for this thing. there are numbers on the top of the clutch housings that, i've been told, will tell that. the original block, which unfortunately is cracked, has the numbers...A1991, and jest below that..59. the replacement block he has shows...M2774...below that also 59. can anyone tell me what year blocks these are from these numbers?

the next thing he'd like to know is, there seems to be two types of of bearings for older ford V8's. they are either full floating types or individual bearings. does anyone here know anything about these, like what years and in what engines, each type was used?

he did rebuild the engine with the replacement block and it ran well when he got it done, but it slowly lost oil pressure as it warmed up, and he thinks it might have something to do with these rod bearings.

any and all imput, tips, and responses are very welcome as i'd like to see him be able to move along on this restoration. he's done several in his day including a '31 model A that is absolutely beautiful. i thank you all in advance and it's nice meeting y'all.

ma10...mike

[Guest Bob Call]

Mike

The 48 has a model 59A engine. The bellhousing should have 59 in raised letters in the center. These engines have full floating rod bearings. That is one set of bearing shells per rod journal on the crank and 2 rods connect to that one journal. 49 and later flatheads, no bellousing it was separate, use individual rod bearings. 59A engines have always been very popular with the hot rodders and you can get everything to build one except a block. You can get a new block for the 49 to 53. Speedway Motors in Nebraska is a good source for a lot of parts. Like new, not rebuilt, water pumps and lots of hot rod performance and dress up parts. Google or Bing Ford flathead parts. Also, with questions or looking for parts go to the H.A.M.B. at The Jalopy Journal.

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[Guest Bob Call]

Mike

A followup I forgot to mention. On these old Ford flatheads it is very common for them to crack from the valve seats to the cylinder walls. First thing to do with the replacement block is to take to an automotive machine shop and have it hot tanked or vatted and then magnafluxed to check for cracks. Odds are it is cracked and will make and excellent planter or boat anchor.

[Guest ma10]

Bob,

thank you for responding. i called my uncle last night and passed along the info you gave me, but the trouble is...it's causing even more confusion, and here's why.

it seems both these blocks he has are indeed '48 blocks since they both have "59" embossed on the bell housing. but....when he tore down the original engine he found it had individual rod bearings in it, AND, when he ordered out new bearings for a '48 ford V8, he was sent the idividual bearings as well.

now it's possible the original engine was rebuild before and some one put the wrong bearings in it, and it's even possible that he was sent the wrong "new" bearings. but could it be that "early" '48's had the full floating bearings, and later '48's had individuals...or vice versa? or something like that? it wouldn't be the first time we found out there was differences in teh same year parts. this is why we're so intent on correctly identifying just what we have here. he has the engine torn all the way back down again and he doesn't want to put it back together until we're sure what's suppose to go in it.

so there ya go...i've tossed our questions into the ring to confuse you and everyone else as well so that hopefully we can figger this thing out. i really appreciate all your help. i'd love to be able to help my favorite uncle get this car on the road again. thanks again...

mike

[Guest Bob Call]

Mike

Back in the day when we built hot rod engines, we often used 49 - 53 Mercury crankshafts in the older engines because they had a longer stroke. Cheap cubic inches. These cranks use individual insert rod bearings. Mic the rod journals so you can order the correct insert size. You can get everything you need, bearings, gaskets, valves, etc., from Egge Machine (EGGE Machine Company - Parts and Services for Nostalgic Motors) or Speedway Motors (Speedway Motors - Street Rod Parts, Race Parts, Ford Flathead Parts, Sprint and Midget Racing Parts, Pedal Car Parts).

I don't recall if the 46 - 48 engines had individual insert rod bearings. When we built a hot rod flathead we used the Mercury crank and had it offset ground to 40 - 42 rod journal size which gave a 4 1/8 inch stroke and used the 40 - 42 full floating rod bearings and 40 rods with Jahns 3 ring high compression pistons. We relieved the block which is placing the head gasket on the block and marking the opening between the valve pockets to the cylinder. Then using carbide cutters ground away, about 1/8 inch deep (just higher than where the top ring comes at TDC), that area between the valve pocket and cylinder to give an increased flow area. Leaving a trinagular area between the intake and exhaust pockets down almost to the cylinder. We used adjustable valve lifters, still available from Egge and Speedway, because the stock way of adusting flathead valves was grinding a few thousandths off of the end of the valve stem. This is a really time consuming and labor intensive job of measuring the valve clearence, removing the valve, grinding the stem, replacing the valve, measuring the clearence. Then repeat 15 more times after you get the first one right. We used Isky (Iskenderian) 400 Jr cam. This a high lift "3/4 race" cam that requires more than stock carburation. If one of these high lift cams is used the valve to head clearence MUST be checked with clay. Most stock heads require valve clearence milled cuts by a machine shop. Most aftermarket high compression heads like Wiand, Edlebrock and Offenhauser don't require modification. The Isky cam kits (cam and matching springs) are still available new.

Unless this car is being restored to a 100 point for competive showing, there is nothing wrong in building a hot rod engine for it as hundreds of thosands of flathead Ford/Mercury engines have been and are still being hot rodded. Only the small block Chevy V8 out numbers the Ford/Mercury flathead V8. And, the increased power will make it a more pleasent driver at todays higher speeds than back in 48. A moderately rodded flathead will make about 150 HP, a real boost above the stock 100 HP for a 59A. The 48 has a 3.78 to 1 real axle ratio which was necessary for the 100 HP in a big sedan. In the 40's a 2 speed overdrive rear axle was a popular aftermarket option for Ford/Mercury.

Edited July 30, 2009 by Bob Call (see edit history)

[Guest jack_a_eckert]

ma10...mike:

If you haven't done so already, you might also try posting early ford V8 questions to Fordbarn's Early V-8 Swap Site.

Jack E

[19tom40]

The individual rod inserts require the 8BA crankshaft and rods. The full floating bearings will have rods with 99A or 29A stamped on the bearing end. The 8BA rods will have a small recess to hold the insert in place. The full floating crankshaft will have 1 oil hole in each journal while the 8BA crankshaft will have 2 oil holes per journal.

The oil pressure problem could be caused by a mismatch in the parts.