Clutch dragging

[Clemster]

I have a 29 Packard 633. I installed a new clutch and refinished flywheel. The problem was that the clutch plate was dragging. It still does. I have adjusted everything I know how to do including flipping the trunion.

Suggestions?

Clemster

[Guest peter packard]

G'day Clemster, I have encountered a dragging clutch before on one of my older cars due to a misaligned gearbox and slightly tight crankshaft bush. You could check for either of these by jacking ONE rear wheel just off the ground and in first gear see how much the idling engine wants to drive the elevated wheel with the clutch pushed in. If you cannot easily stop the wheel by hand then you probably have either a misaligned gearbox or a crankshaft bush that's grabbing on your input shaft. Worth a try and good luck. Peter Toet

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I know someone, with a '37, that had that problem, and found out that when overhauling the clutch they used too thick of a disk pad material. It had to be removed and sanded down before it would work.

It could also be that the clutch Fingers are bent and not allowing enough adjustment.

[Owen_Dyneto]

I've forgotten, is that a multiple disc clutch or a single disc?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

It's a Single disk clutch.

When I overhauled my 645s clutch, I found that 3 of the 6 Fingers were bent way in. This caused the clutch-plate to crack, due to uneven pressure (the bent fingers were all on one side). I was surprised how easy those bend, when I straightened them back out. (had to get a new plate)

I made sure that those 3 were positioned next to the ones that didn't bend (every other one), just in case they are weak and bend again.

[Clemster]

I had Rochester Clutch and brake rebuild my clutch and brake. They did a super job. They have the original specifications plus an understanding of how things wear over the years. They also packed the throughout bearing and replaced the pilot bearing. They recommended I pinch off the Bijeau line to the thro out bearing which I did. I also put some no-seize on the spline. To date I have shimed the end of the clutch pedal shaft and flipped over the trunion. The clutch is better but still drags. We found a frined with a 26 Packard whose clutch drags as well. He does like I did: starts it in gear and never goes to neutral.

I must say I'm very blue this morning. We raced all week to get my Packard ready for a Concourse at Mt Vernon. It rained 4 days and is finally clearling. Too wet for me to roll plus the car is not ready. The brake light switch is shorted out and one of the tiny brass screws in the tail lite assemby failed so I have no running tail lite. All that junk in the brake lite switch is a mystery to me. I have one wire taped in and it works fine. The other connects into the red fiber waifer and that shorts out. What a stupid design!

Clem, the down as I really wanted to ride to George's house in my Packard!

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clemster</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> They recommended I pinch off the Bijeau line to the thro out bearing which I did. </div></div>

??? Why do you Not want the throwout-bearing to be oiled ??? Is the line completely closed or partially to reduce the amount of oil getting to clutch assembly?

I can understand reducing it, if the disk and plate are getting oil on them, but Not eliminating it.

Yep, Sounds like you just need to put a few thousand miles on the car, to wear down the clutch disk a little.

I think there is one of those switches on eBay now.

[Owen_Dyneto]

The only reaason to disable the Bijur line to the throwout bearing would be if you installed a sealed and permanently lubricated bearing; if you replaced the original with another open bearing, you must maintain the Bijur. The Bijur drip plug for the throwout bearing is the most restrictive in the system, a DC-000 in the later systems with automatic Bijur operation.

[Guest imported_Speedster]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Owen_Dyneto</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The only reason to disable the Bijur line to the throwout bearing would be if you installed a sealed and permanently lubricated bearing </div></div>

But doesn't a little of the oil get on the front side of the bearing where it contacts the clutch-fingers and lubricate the fingers, to reduce heat from friction and wear on the fingers?

[Guest imported_Speedster]

I couldn't find that Brake Light Switch on eBay, so it must have closed yesterday, Sorry.

[Clemster]

Update: Brake switch repared the old fashioned way: lots of electrical tape. One of the red waffers insulators is gone. The one remaining let the wire end fitting strike the cross plate.

On the tailight, I rebuilt a spare that I had. A friend came by and thought I could back the broken screw end out with a carb jet drill. Sunday I was more relaxed and not so mad. I stared down the original for a while. I took a fine drill by hand and spun it against the broken screw end. There was a minute edge on the break and the drill cutting edge would catch it. 2 minutes and the brass end was in my hand(:>). Golly that is a fine screw. Plus what a silly arrangement with the 2 copper straps going to 2 different bulbs. I did not remove the entire light fixture. I would have had to remove the light bracket from the frame and that seemed scary.

happiness is a brake and running light!! The backup light is intermident and the switch is loose in its midsection. I plan not to fool with that.

Thanks all

Clem, the happy.