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paintless dent repair


Roadster90
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THE 90 COUPE THAT I JUST BOUGHT HAS ONE SMALL<BR>(THUMB SIZE) DENT ON PASSENGER DOOR-DENT REPAIR PLACES MIGHT BE ABLE TO ELIMINATE THE MAJORITY OF THE DENT BUT I AM CURIOUS IF ANYONE KNOWS IF THE METAL TREATMENT (GALVANIZED) OF THE REATTA WILL WITHSTAND<BR>FLEXING AND STILL MAINTAIN PAINT RETENTION.<BR>THANKS,<BR>NIC

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If you are lucky (unlucky) enough to live in a hail state such as Texas there are lots of Paintless dent repair shops. For a strong recommendation I would go to the dealer and ask the new car or service managers where they go for hail and door dings. Living in the north I feel that the local guys simply paid the franchise fee and may not be fully experienced as someone who only does paintless dent repairs 24/7.<P>Most cars are galvanized these days and it shouldn't be a problem but don't know. Good luck Robert

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When I used to hang around the body shop, they used to pull the easy ones out with dry ice and a suction cup.With no damage to the paint.Holding a small block of dry ice for a few minutes(with heavy gloves on)on the outer edges of the dent and as the ice is removed pulling on the suction cup the change of temp would pop it right out. Not always 100% success rate.<BR>ronvb wink.gif" border="0

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wally888; No not that simple. Do a search DIY auto body repair. Remove with many, many many small "wacks". The degree of difficulty often is directly proportional to the car color. Black being hardest, all metallic very difficult to match paint and white easiest, you could almost use paper white out. Always easiest to paint a complete panel that way color, texture and shine will all match the surrounding area. There is a certain degree of art and black magic to do this repair. I have done them in the past with mixed results. Good Luck, Robert <BR> <BR>PS Dealerships also have mixed results.

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Wally,<BR>Just to throw my 2 cents in:<BR>The info you linked to is to the exteme, with all that sanding you would start out with a 1/4 inch blem and end up with a 3"<BR>area that looks repaired.<BR>As far as your small ding,personally I would leave it and worry about it some other time when you are going to refinish the whole car.<BR>There are so many special hammers and dollys<BR>that the pros use to fix a dent like yours.<BR>Metal has a tendency to shrink or stretch when damaged.<BR>ronvb wink.gif" border="0

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Guest wally888

I failed to mention, there is no paint at the peak of the dent ( pin head size) and there was a little rust.<BR> My reason for initially asking was there is rust inside the trunk. Strange and I think, an unusual place. The two lower mounting nuts and bolts holding lid to body. Only on 1 side as if car was parked on a slope for a long, long time and water stood there? I see no rust any other location.<BR> I bought a can of GM spray paint, white, right code, and was going to do both places at the same time. Will wait for more input!

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Guest wally888

I have a dent in the trunk lid, about the size of a wooden match head tip, 1/64 inch high, made from the inside. The paint is broken to the metal.<BR> Do I dare place something flat on it and whack it? Then touch up.<BR> Is this good info: <A HREF="http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/touchup.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/bodygauges/touchup.html</A>

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Guest Buick Mike

From what little knowledge I have about body work, I'd say you'd more likely need to put something flat UNDER it and very gently tap it down. My willingness to attempt this repair would be inversely proportional to how much I cared about the car.<P>Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest wally888

Contrary to sound advice I attempted to patch the .2 x .6 inch damage in the middle of my white trunk. The actual damage, caused by someone trying to close the trunk w/ something sticking up, was a small hump, matchhead size but over time the paint seperated, cracked and began to rust.<BR> As Buick Mike suggested, I placed a heavy flat piece behind, masked over damage and whacked it 3 or 4 times. The hump disappeared.<BR> I purchased a matching spray can of paint, carefully sanded, used tack cloth, masked w/ some thin , green tape designed for not sticking and no petrol. Applied 7 thin coats and all looked good except for a thin line, near the middle, all the way to metal.<BR> Removed all and started again.<BR> Really cleaned, sanded well. The actual holes, 2, were not as big as size mentioned earlier. That size is the size of spray area. This time all looks great. I will need to sand just a little more, apply a clear coat, and finish.<BR> I can not see the repair, w/ glasses, from 2 feet. After some finishing touches it should be almost invisable.<BR> I have absolutely no talent for this type of thing! W/ patience anyone can do it.<p>[ 02-18-2002: Message edited by: wally888 ]

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Wally: Know why you have rust around the trunk lid bolts/nuts. They're in a rectangular-shaped, quarter-inch-deep depression that pools water from rain or the car wash. Every time I run my car through the wash, I have to sponge out the water when they're wiping down the inside trunk lid. I had to use navel jelly to remove the rust. It also took off some paint, which involved primering and painting that small area.<P>Jerry

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Guest wally888

I also used Naval Jelly on the spots in the trunk and sprayed the spots while waiting on the trunk to dry.<BR> Never noticed the pooling and the other 3 Reattas had no rust there. Think previous owner parked on a right to left slope. Now I'm ready to tackle the front rub strip.<BR> The strip is cut into and has damage in another place. Both where license holder, now missing, rested.<BR> I have a plate holder, will make brackets as per Barney, but what do I use to repair (will be hidden by plate holder) rub strip and what kind of black paint?<BR> The previous owner had a lot of spare time and a sander or buffer. He left his signature on a lot of rubber trim and polished all the brightness off of rear bumper rub strip. Front shines..

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