John Gelfer
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Posts posted by John Gelfer
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Head is cast iron, not aluminum.
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Car is a 1928 Gardner Roadster. These motors were more commonly used in Auburns. Removed all 27 nuts off the studs and tried to lift the head off. Using an engine hoist, the car actually lifted off the jack stands and the head stayed on. Squirted PB Blaster on the studs the last 4 days and tried again today with no luck. the engine overheated enough to cause some coolant loss (white clouds from water vapor in the exhaust). Luckily, no water contamination in the oil. Any tips on getting the head off?
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Never had this engine apart, but compression is low on 2 cylinders. I was getting some major valve train noise. Does anyone know a source for valves and springs for this? I already have the engine gasket set.
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These have a 9/16" square shank to mount to the front brackets. Later cars had a tapered round shank.
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These have a 9/16" square shank to fit in the top front bracket. Later Model T's had a round hole bracket.
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I don't think my dimensions will match up with a modern seal. The leather gets deformed and pushed into a space by the inside lip of the hub. Even though it is 3.5mm thick, the final height of the inner lip would be much higher than 3.5mm. Since that lip is worn away, I have no idea what the height would be.
Maybe someone out there has figured this out and has a part number. If I had some of the rubber stuff that hardens that dentists use, I could make an impression of the seal, after I put the hub on the axle. I think that would be the best way to figure out what a modern seal would have to look like. I'm going to see if I can get some.
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I know that Auburn and Gardner shared some of the same Lycoming straight 8 motors. I'm asking if the Auburns of the late 20's also shared the Columbia axles. The reason I'm asking is I hope to find a modern replacement for the leather grease seal on the rear axle of my 1928 Gardner. The outer lip sits in the axle housing, while the inner lip is about 1/4" shy of the axle. The inner edge of the seal meets up with a machined chamfer inside the wheel hub. I know some old Chryslers had the same type of seal, but I don't know the dimensions. My seal needs to be 70.7mm (2.78") OD, and 47mm (1.85") ID. The original leather is 3.5mm (0.14") thick.
There is a piece of spring steel on the back side of the leather to hold it against the hub. That steel spring plate is broken in 3 peices on one side.
I'm prepared to make a new leather one, if I can't find something better. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!
John Gelfer
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Yes, the Gardner hub has the same tapered nose inside that rides on the leather. Can you still get the leather seals anywhere? I don't think a modern seal will fit, due to the nose of the hub hitting it when you put the wheel on the axle.
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My 1928 Gardner has leather rear axle seals. Rather than the inside lip of the seal riding against the axle, the wheel hub has a machined surface on the inside that rides on the leather seal. There probably is a modern seal to fit, which would seal against the axle. It looks like there wouldn't be much room for a modern seal, unless the inside of the hub was shortened to provide clearance. Has anyone had experience with this? I would consider leather seals too, it they are available.
Thanks!
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Hi Todd. My distributor is a Delco 651B. It has 4 lobes on the distributor cam inside. There are some Delco dual point models that have 8 lobes.
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Do not assume there is an error in how the battery is hooked up. I have a 1928 Gardner roadster, and it is a 6 volt, positive ground system. I have the owners manual, and it states that is how it is connected in the system. I bet your ammeter shows it is charging correctly when it is running. (Assuming the generator is working.) Talk to some Chrysler owners of this era.
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Thank you for your help, I have found multiple pictures on the internet of 1928 Auburns with straight 8 engines that have this combo on them. You guys have been a great help. I hope someone needs it.
I just checked my Gardner book. (I have a 1928 Model 75 roadster) I have the same Delco 949C generator, and the water pump looks pretty close too. You might want to post a free ad on the Gardner website: http://gardnermotorcars.com/index.html
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I think the old steam engine oil with the antiquated "600 WT" designation is really closer to a modern 250 wt oil. The model T parts vendors (Langs, Snyders, etc.) have it. I'm using it in the differential and transmission in my 1928 Gardner.
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After warming up, my 1928 Gardner with the 225 cu. in. Lycoming 8 (GT series motor) is making some top end noise that sounds like a stuck lifter. It runs fine, and you only hear it when it idles, but you really notice it when you shut the motor down. When you turn off the ignition, you hear 3 bell like "tap,tap,taps". It sounds like it's from the front of the valve train. I just checked all valve clearances, and only cylinder #3 needed adjustment.
Assuming I can isolate which valve is causing the noise, what's the easiest way to fix it?
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I'm sure Jon Hardgrove at The Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO can fix you up. 204 E 15th St Eldon, MO 65026
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Did you lay the plugs on the head while cranking to see if all were sparking?
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I would try Jon Hardgrove at the Carburetor Shop in Eldon, MO. He is the god of antique carburetors, and can steer you in the right direction for repairs, or replacements. Leave a message at 573 392-7378.
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Don't know about the brakes, but for both the differential and tranny, I use the old 600 weight steam engine oil available from many parts vendors. It is not really 600W according to the modern weight charts. I think it is more like a 250 W. Snyders, Langs, Macs all carry it. Any Model T or A vendor has it for about $8 a quart. 20's cars (and older) don't have modern seals. This stuff is quite thick, so it doesn't leak out. Good luck.
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One of the sexiest cars ever built. What a beauty. Maybe in my next life...
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This was pictured in my home town newspaper years ago. Does anyone know what year it is, and anything about the Baker cars?
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Try Jon Hardgrove at the Carburetor Shop in Eldon MO. He has tons of antique carbs, and is a fountain of knowledge. I hope he is still around.
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Beautiful car. The dash is so much fancier than my model 75 roadster. I believe the car belongs to Bob Gardner from St. Paul MN. He spent the past three years restoring it. Thanks for posting the photos.
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Did anyone stop by the Gardner booth? I know there was going to be a recently restored 1928 Model 90 roadster there. Please post some photos if you have them.
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The 600W Steam Oil is correct. It is not really a 600 weight by today's standards. It is closer to a 250W, I think. Without modern seals, the 90W is likely to leak out of your rear end and transmission. I removed the 90W oil and put in the 600W Steam Oil in my 1928 Gardner a few years ago, and it shifts better now too.
1927 MODEL T TOURING -- POS/NEG GROUND
in Technical
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All Model T's were negative ground. I assume you have a starter and generator. You would damage the generator if you reverse the polarity. The MTFCA forum is a good place to get help.