Phil Keleshian

I remember having either my worm or sector gear hard chrome plated to remove some of the play. As I remember I had to guess how thick the plating should be as too much will cause the gears to bind. I think I erred on the side of to little but it was acceptable. This was many years ago so the details are a bit fuzzy. Be sure that the play is in the steering box and not in the linkage befor you do anything drastic like plating gears. Phil

Thanks. I think I will get one. With due respect to Henry and his engineers his pump with the packing may have been fine in 1929 but if I can get one without the agravation and it looks the same I'm ready. Phil

Somtime ago I saw an ad for a water pump with a modern carbon shaft seal and sealed bearings. It looked like a standard Model A water pump. It had the packing nut but it was just for looks. Are they still available? Any thoughts? Phil

Art Tatum who was probably the greatest Jazz paino player ever had a Model A. He was nearly blind and had a driver, but was known to yeild to the temptation to drive it himself. Phil <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Steve_Mack_CT</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have heard (and seen it written as a trivia question somewhere) that Henry Ford never had a driver's License. I am still unsure if this is correct or not. Can anyone name any famouse people who drove Model As? </div></div>

Hi Matthew, May I ask why you do not like quartz? Phil <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MCHinson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most of the Model A Parts suppliers have websites that have photos and lists of parts that should enable you to see what you need. I personally recommend Bratton's or Mike's. I have the most experience with them and have always had good luck in dealing with them. I would stay away from Quartz, but do what you want to do with your car. </div></div>

Thanks for the link to the light bulbs. It has been a while since I looked but I guess I was not aware that there is no ground cable between the engine and the frame. I remember that on the early V8s the battery grounded to the frame and there was a heavy cable from the frame to the engine. Sometime later, I don't know when, but before my '65 Mustang it occured to Ford's designers that they could save copper by grounding the battery to the engine and use a smaller cable from engine to frame. Phil <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: A by the sea</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As already pointed out, a properly restored A runs great. As for lighting options, there is only one real option. The bulbs made Australia. They make Halogen bulbs that fit the original sockets and use only marginally more current. They are built with the filament in the correct place. They are available in 6V. Halogen bulbs. With your electrical system you need to check that you have good proper clean connections at all point. You also need to be aware that the path from the frame ground to the engine is through the drive line and stuff like rubber spring shackles can cause you grief. </div></div>

Good question. Actually I'm not absolutely sure I want to. The upside of 12 volts would be more lighting options and more available batteries. The downsides would be the difficulty in keeping the stock apperance of the generator and possible issues with the starting motor and drive. I have become fond of the sealed Optima batteries. I have one in my BMW and one in my Mustang. The corrosion is a thing of the past in the Mustang. The stock battery in the BMW was effectivly vented however I think not needing a vent is a better approach. Optima does make a 6 volt automotive battery however it has the same cells as the 12 volt battery. It just has 3 cells instead of 6. They charge about the same price for the 6 volt battery as they do for the 12 volt one. I am sort of rebeling against the rip-off. If I can find a good 6 volt sealed battery which is not a rip-off I will be inclined to keep the car electrical 6 volts. Realisticly the lighting with stock bulbs should be fine for any speed I will be driving the car at night. Phil <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MCHinson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Phil, Why do you want to convert it to 12 volts? If you correctly restore or replace any components that have problems, the original 6 volt system will work just fine. It is cheaper than converting and it is reliable. I don't think that you can improve on Henry's design. </div></div>

Thanks Steve, I think there are better Bendix drives and 12 volt field coil replacements to make the starting motor better suited to 12 volts. Does anyone have a lead on these items? If one leaves the DC generator, will it get to 14 volts at any reasonable engine speed? Phil

Hi, I just joined the forum. I have a '29 Sport Coupe. I haven't started it for years. It is time. There are some ignition problems which I can sort when I get the time. The battery is dead. Before buying a new battery I am faced with the decision of weather or not to do a 12 volt conversion. If I do the 12 volt conversion can I leave the starter motor or will I have to modify it for reliability? I once did this to a '55 Ford and sort of got by. It also used a Bendix drive. The starter motor and Bendix survived but it knocked the ring gear off the torque converter. I secured it back with fender washers on the ring of bolts from the flex plate to the converter. Also I am wondering it there is a alternator which looks like the old Ford lighthouse generator. I don't have that generator but I'm thinking it would be easier to get an alternator in that form than in the more common DC machine form. Also any thoughts on the H4 headlight conversion kits. Thanks, Phil