dnt
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Posts posted by dnt
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Were there any stock Reatta interior colors that would look good with a yellow paint job?
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: crtnrds</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm thinking of using the Lucerne port holes on my "hot rod" project. </div></div>
The Lucerne portholes appear to be REAL portholes based on a set I see for sale here on Ebay. You will need to do a bit of cutting.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You are probably right about the caps, but the stock speakers leave a lot to be desired if they still work at all. An easy way to indentify the real problem is to use the F-R fader.
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OK, I'll bite, how do you use the F-R fader to determine if the problem is with the speakers or with the "caps" in the radio?
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I bought one and it has worked fine. If you don't know how to install them, let a mechanic do it...they can be dangerous.
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An article published by the Department of Biostatistics, School of Public Health and Community Medicine, University of Washington, Seattle, WA concluded:
"Driver air bags offered relatively little benefit in road vehicle crashes compared with seat belts. Air bags reduced the risk of death by about 8%, whereas seat belts reduced the risk of death by 65%. (This estimate for seat belts is similar to an estimate of 62% (95% confidence interval 60% to 64%) that two of us reported in a study using similar methods.15) Using a seat belt and having an air bag reduced the risk of death by 68%."
I have an 88 so I must sell myself on such a view.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DTerry</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Simple. Remove the bulb. </div></div>
Is it really simple to remove the panel in a Reatta to get to the bulbs? I remember it took my mechanic more than an hour to replace an idiot light bulb in my Volvo--what a complicated mess.
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This discussion is like those that argue about which motor oil brand and filter are best.
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Did you have the car off the ground and spin each wheel by hand to listen for noise? A bad wheel bearing generally stands-out nicely when so tested. On a hoist, you can also start the car and engage the transmission and further listen for front end drive-train noises.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: harry yarnell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Are the Delco (icecube type) and the Magnavox (transformer type) coil/modules interchangeable? </div></div>
I took a the newer Delco style out of a 92 Buick LeSabre and it works A-OK.
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Where I live, the state recognizes a car for classic/antique plate purposes when they are 25 years old. Are some states less than 25 years? Aside from what a state thinks, is there a rule of thumb on how old a vehicle must be for it to be thought of as a classic or antique?
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At current Reatta prices, we can buy more or less 50 Reattas for the cost of one Buick Wildcat.
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Did you jack-up front of car and spin front wheels? Mine was very obvious, no special listening devices needed.
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Just recently had similiar symptoms, it was a bad battery terminal bolt that was allowing the battery terminal to be SLIGHTLY loose. If you can grab the battery terminal and rotate it at all with your hand, its too loose. New bolt installed, problems went away.
Even if it is not a bad battery bolt, it could be a bad or corroded terminal, internal short in the battery, bad ground, etc.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: joereatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">With no ABS don't even think about doing anything but stopping in a straight line. Give me my ABS anyday. </div></div>
Not exactly. Pumping the brakes quickly allows good directional control, but, more importantly, one only need pump the brakes when directional control is an issue and the rest of the time one can have superior stopping power without ABS interference.
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Nothing like a good debate. I think it is safe to say no matter what the arguments, some of us dislike and some will love ABS. Another reason to have a switch to control whether ABS is operational. ;-)
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Forgive me, but why is this an upgrade? Are there many problems with the calipers? I seem to read loads of issues with other brake components.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TDman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Friction between tires and asphalt are the greatest at the point just prior to a slide, and it decreases as soon as you start sliding. </div></div>That is no doubt true. But I would submit that most serious braking events are of very short duration and that locking-up the brakes will either result in a shorter stop or that the differance between what an expert driver could do and a lock-up stop would be negligible. And that's the story I'm sticking with.
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ken<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> (ABS)... was not intended to make you stop faster. </div></div>
Absolutely agreed. ABS was intended to do nothing more than make it easier to retain directional control in slippery conditions--but it does NOT allow faster stopping. Typically, locking the brakes will stop you the fastest, but then again, if doing so causes loss of directional control, that could be a bad thing. In the end, I think ABS is good for an inexperiended driver, but an experienced driver could do much better without ABS by exercising judgment that ABS takes away, such as pumping brakes quickly if directional control is an issue or hard/lock-up the wheels braking if the situation dictates.
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Read another way of doing this. Power flush first, drive a short time, then change filter. The theory being that when it is flushed the filter could accumulate things and why ruin a start to clog-up a new filter.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EDBS0</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-size: 20pt"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #CC0000">ABSOLUTELY NO!</span></span></span> to transmission power flush. </div></div>
How about installing a new filter, which would allow cleaning anything off the bottom of the pan, and then doing the power flush?
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I think it is well settled that flushing the brake fluid on Reattas on a regular basis in advised.
How about flushing the transmission and power steering fluids, what are the pros and cons? When I say "flush" the transmission, I am not speaking of pulling the pan and getting a few quarts out (a worthless endeavor in my opinion), I am speaking of going to a shop that has the equipment to flush 12-16 quarts of fresh fluid through the transmission so you end-up with that nice fresh pink fluid.
Or, if we did not want to spend $90.00 for a flush, could we do it ourselves with the "Volvo Procedure" such as shown here
When I speak of flushing the power steering fluid, I am thinking of a procedure such as shown here
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Just had the same symptoms, front hub bearing. A puller was not needed to remove the hub, just 30 seconds of enthusiastic tapping with a hammer. Don't remember the exact cost, but the local auto supply had one in stock and it was not very expensive.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 63viking</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got a message saying that the file was damaged and could not be repaired.??? </div></div>
I assume you were ultimately able to download the article based on your private comments as to what you believed was the dpi scan resolution utilized.
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NYBobP</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The article is 11 pages long with many photographs, so I wouldn't know how to go about doing it. The book is the Automobile Quarterly (2nd quarter 1990 volume 28 #2).
I remember getting a number of copies of these books when they came out, keeping one and giving the rest away to Reatta convertible owner friends. Now I just paid almost 50 bucks for one more.
Do you think this publication could be accessed on line? </div></div>
Well, its now available online for educational and comment purposes at:
TEVES ! Interesting Ebay Auction #320209590597
in Buick Reatta
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Out of curiosity, what does it cost to obtain a rebuilt master cylinder or have our courrent one rebuilt?