Dave Henderson
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Posts posted by Dave Henderson
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17 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:
This car was written up in an old car magazine a few years ago. It had a lot of advanced features like streamlined body, balloon tire suspension and cooling by boiling water.
Bendix came out with a lot of new ideas in the thirties and forties not all having to do with cars. How much influence this car had on the industry, I don't know, but would be interesting to find out.
Alfred Ney was a Bendix engineer who contributed his vast engineering skills to the BSW car's design. Their front wheel drive innovation came after the introduction of the front wheel drive L29 Cord, the design of which is credited to Al Leamy. Leamy, who passed away at a very early age in the mid '30's, and Ney were good friends. During the '70's while researching Leamy's accomplishments to do an article subsequently published in AACA's Antique Automobile I was fortunate to have a get-together with Ney and Agnes Leamy, Al's widow, at her apartment in Washington, D.C. Mr. Ney was very impressive, and luckily the session was taped.
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The Lincoln Zephyr hub caps were popular to put on early V8 Fords and looked very cool. They went on the same way as the Ford hubcap, ergo the Zephyr wheel was the same as the Ford's in the mounting area and did not have slots. Is the wheel marked Ford or FOMOCO?
If not it could be from another make that had 5 lugs. -
I'm shy about using tank sealer dope too and wouldn't use it, or try interior plating. I'd start by rinsing/soaking the tank out with lacquer thinner if there are any gummy deposits, then put in enough metal prep so that by turning the tank periodically in all positions the prep is able to reach and soak the entire surface of the interior, including it's top. Metal prep eats rust but won't hurt the metal. Then rinse again with thinner and put a filter on the line. Keeping the tank topped up with gas would help prevent interior rusting. If it sits for long periods use Sta-bil.
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To find the the true ID number of the car the nuts on the body bolts need to be removed. Carefully jack the body's driver's side up the least amount needed until you can see where the number is. Rub some chalk in the numbers and take a picture if you can. That's how I did it on my coupe years ago.
It is common practice to file down the boss on the block and stamp the frame number on the boss. Some Model A club chapters have stamping number sets, some even come with a holding device that aligns the numbers and holds them in place on the side of the block. Don't stamp them very hard and paint over them with matching paint. Now you've got a "matching numbers" car!-
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I'd put that one in the "plough wrench" category. I have a tool box of various odd ball wrenches from who knows what. From my "Peanut gallery" prospective it's probably not automotive.
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Ron, Just a thought, why not experiment with various paint mixes by painting sample spots of it on the inside side of one or more tires on your daily driver to test how well it holds up.
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I have one still in it's original mailing box, postmarked Dec. 17, '65. It is of heavy bronze, has u's, not v's, and an undrilled mounting tab at the bottom.
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On 12/29/2023 at 5:11 PM, Dave Henderson said:
That isn't how I composed the above but it came out messed up this way, I hope you get the gist.
Golly, how did I manage to overlook the wrecked field car '37 Cord sedan in '52, and my '64 K Code Comet Caliente hardtop in the late '70's? The Cord had hit the rear of a truck so hard that the front door openings were squeezed, but sheet metal behind that was good as was the complete power train, dash with instruments, radio, and interior hardware. In retrospect I should have kept the windshield frames too but didn't because the chrome had failed and pitting had begun. That one was a whopping $45. The Comet was to be junked for $35 the next day, I offered $45 which was accepted and with a new radiator hose was able to drive it home, puffing like a steam engine all the way. Fortunately the block was not harmed when it had overheated so an overhaul with $85 worth of J. C. Whitney parts which included pistons came out well. I have put another 125 k miles on it since and it still runs well and doesn't use oil. The good old days . . .
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'37 production numbers are lumped together in my resource, so no specific figures there. They are rare however, since '37 I've seen two convertible sedans but never a cabriolet.
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A great old time kind of meet that just gets better year after year. It's like those of the good old days with friendly laid back vendors, reasonable prices, and less often seen stuff from out of the murky past with some of it just spread out on a tarp on the ground. Sure hope I can be there again this year.
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3 hours ago, zepher said:
Interesting car, but I'm not a fan of the proportions.
Hood is way too long for the rest of the body.
Rear passenger compartment doesn't look any larger than a standard sedan with the large cut out area on the rear door for the rear fender.
My Pierce has a very small cut area on the rear door for the rear fender.
Originally it was to have A 16 cylinder engine, thus the long hood. The body is considerably larger all over than an original L29 sedan's. Plans were revised and became for it to be a 12 cylinder car. Later it was disassembled and the engine for a while was used to power a dynamo or other device at the nearby power plant.
My recollections are a bit fuzzy but a comprehensive history of the car is known and could be addressed by ACD Museum staff members or the L29 historian of the ACD Club.-
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3 hours ago, TAKerry said:
I have been purposely staying away as much as possible for fear of diluting threads, but the above mentioned idea of making a tag is utterly ridiculous! If you want a repop there are those out there. In my state of MD a 'restored' tag is not useable. Repainting is prohibited, the original finish must be good and intact.
States have their own requirements pertaining to the condition of yom plates. In Virginia restored plates are in use routinely, and I have never had difficulty with them being approved at the DMV.
Admittedly, using fiberglass to make reproduction parts is best done where there is a need for multiple copies of a part, all the same. I made a part I needed using the process, then made and sold several copies, and finally sold the mold to a parts supplier. -
I remember that reversing switch, the one on my dad's new '41 Chevy broke off of the starter before the car was even a week old. Funny how you remember things, I was 10.
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This, a '20'S Boyce Radio motometer with a winged hinged base, the pride of my collection, also features a head, possibly inspired by the discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1922.
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Here's another approach, assuming your state allows repainting yom plates the same colors as when new if needed and otherwise in good condition.
Do a little experimenting on something small before going whole hog... You'll need fiberglass cloth, resin, release compound such as thick cook pan spray, and paint. Apply release compound to the plate you wish to duplicate, cut a piece of fiberglass cloth a little bigger than the plate, saturate it with the mixed resin and lay it onto the face of the plate, pressing it down around the numbers so there is a good contact. After it cures remove the fiberglass from the tag and; viola, you have a female mold to use to duplicate the tag. Employ the same process and materials as in the first step. When cured separate the pieces and carefully trim the duplicated tag and paint it. Last step is to shrink wrap the two tags back to back. Both sides will be visible, look identical, and the DMV probably won't require unwrapping them for further inspection. -
All passenger Model A's originally had black fenders, This A's body is black but it has light color fenders, maybe primer, or just some leftover house paint brushed on, a car at or near the bottom of the pecking order. In the era short skirts prevailed in better times, long ones when the economy was off. Could be a hint that this picture was taken during the '37-'38 downturn.
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Specifically it's a P8 limousine of which only 98 were produced as per The Production Figure Handbook by Jerry Heasley.
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Looks to me like it could be a '35-'36 3 window Ford coupe but the rain gutter doesn't look right. If in fact it is Ford the dual wipers would likely make it a deluxe.
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7 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:
If it was a Toastmaster Model 1B14 you would fix it!👍 Man that stainless steel sure shines nice.
Amen. I just tossed my Toastmaster toaster a year ago, it had been given the fix several times but it was finally done. We had gotten it as a wedding present. So what? Jean and I will be celebrating our 70th wedding anniversary later this year!
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12 hours ago, 8E45E said:
A larger size autowrecker could use it in their showroom/checkout area if they have the space, roped off as a "hands off" display.
Craig
By the '40's even good running cars of this ilk became viewed as obsolete gas guzzling dinosaurs. The term "classic car" hadn't come into the vernacular yet, and their monetary value was chump change. But pragmatic filling station and repair shop owners saw a use for them. They could be inexpensively converted to service vehicles or wreckers by selectively removing rear body sections, installing a hand crank crane and a big hefty oak plank at the front for use to push start stranded cars. Oh, and a big old headlight mounted high at the rear for night work. I'm of an age that I was able to have seen these conversions, one I remember in particular was a '34 Super 8 done by a nearby station owner.
Now, wouldn't that be a cooler thing to do with the subject car than parting it, making it into a ratrod, or having it become yard or garage art?-
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The Alco was made under a licensing agreement from Berliet.
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The 1936 Lincoln Zephyr "twin Grille" custom sedan was sold at an auction of cars accumulated by Lee Roy Hartung and presented at his rustic museum, during November 3-5 2011 at Glenview, Ill. by Auctions America. The modification was designed by Willard Morrison, who was described as a prolific inventor. Interestingly, he is credited with designing the coveted aftermarket three-bar grille and hood trim for 1936 Fords made by Pines Winterfront Company. Another interesting car up for auction was the 1949 BMW Veritas with coachwork by Spohn.
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Interesting. Assuming it was previously installed (and not never-installed, which granted is in the realm of possibility), it was somehow capable of being removed.
Could it be that it won't unscrew because of a malfunction? -
That isn't how I composed the above but it came out messed up this way, I hope you get the gist.
Can someone identify the parked car behind this 1935 Ford?
in What is it?
Posted
The Marx brothers, comedians who were famous in the era.