SteveHotRod

Bob, Thanks again! We will proceed (in some way you suggested) to get the flywheel out! Steve

Hi Bob, Thanks much! My friends & I thought that the grease was coming from the front (also rear) of the trans. Do they sell seals for these? Also, we have the car on a lift and can support the engine fairly easily. But I'm still not sure how we loosen the bell housing! Best regards, Steve

Hi Bob, We finally pulled the clutch today! (You were right--big job!) The clutch was down to the metal staples at points & the pressure plate & flywheel were glazed. We tried to get the flywheel off but couldn't because of interference with the bell housing. Is there a trick to this? My friend suggested deglazing the flywheel on the car with emory cloth?? Attached are pics showing the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. What do you think? Thanks for your help! Steve

Bob, Thanks again! When my friends get back from vacation in a couple of weeks, we'll tackle this! Steve

Thanks Bob! What't the easiest way to get the driveshaft off? Thanks, Steve

Guys, I jacked up both rear tires and put the car in gear and let the clutch out. The left wheel spun fine. I then stopped it with my foot & the right wheel turned fine. No noises either. I did this in all 3 forward gears. What next? Thanks, Steve

Guys, Thanks for your thoughts! The first thing I did was make sure that the brakes weren't dragging. (This was a big problem when I got the car about 6 years ago.) They weren't! I'll jack the rear wheels up and try your suggestions this week. Thanks again, steve

Hi, I put it on the lift with much difficulty. To get it to move I have to race the engine a lot & let the clutch out very slowly & not all the way. In this manner I could move it a few feet. Please see my other posting on this for a photo. (I screwed up today by not using a reply & posting a new message!) Thanks, Steve:confused:

Hi, I have a stock '31 Buick. To get it to move I have to race the engine a lot & let the clutch out very slowly & not all the way. In this manner I can move it a few feet. I put the car on a lift with the clutch depressed and the clutch cover off but could see nothing as shown in the photo. Is my next step to pull the transmission & clutch? (I'd appreciate any thoughts on how to do this as the '31 "Specification Manual" is useless here! Thanks for your help! Steve

Hi, I have a stock '31 Buick. To get it to move I have to race the engine a lot & let the clutch out very slowly & not all the way. In this manner I can move it a few feet. I put the car on a lift with the clutch depressed and the clutch cover off but could see nothing as shown in the photo. Is my next step to pull the transmission & clutch? (I'd appreciate any thoughts on how to do this as the '31 "Specification Manual" is useless here! Thanks for your help! Steve

Bob, Thanks much! I'll put it on the lift & take a look! Steve

Hi, My 31 Buick is almost impossible to drive. The clutch feels like a "dog" clutch. I have to rev the engine very rapidly and then feather out the clutch to get it to move. I tried adjusting the clutch last fall but no luck. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks much! Steve

Hi, I have a 1931 Buick Model 57 & would like to change the oil filter. It's a WIX (see photo) but has no markings on it. Any ideas of what it is? Also, what do you recommend for oil for this car? I think the engine was rebuilt not too long ago but it does seem to smoke some. Thanks much, Steve

Guys, Thanks for all the info! Maybe I was a bit hasty but I do like downdrafts better! Steve

Hi Mark, Thanks for the info! I don't think that the pipe is rusted out. I bought the car about 2 years ago and it looks like someone went through the engine really well. I also checked the jets when I rebuilt the carb. I agree that it's a very simple carb -- but I had a national old carb rebuilder tell me that he won't touch a Marvel as they are such junk! So I've flipped the intake, made spacers for the front & rear manifold studs, got a longer front stud, bought & fabricated a carb adapter & I'm back to the questions that I posted. Any additional info will be very much appreciated! Thanks much! Steve

Hi Mark, I did try some other things including rebuilding the Marvel, creating a new float from the Volare epoxy foam material, and setting the float about 3/32" below the lowest jet. All I'd do was get a gas leak out of the Marvel when I cranked the engine and no/little gas to the engine. (It would not start.) The engine started easy with starting fluid & I could run it fine by pouring some gas into the manifold through the wiper vacuum fitting. So, after speaking to some other folks and doing some reading, I decided to flip the manifold! Any advice/answer to my previous questions would be appreciated! Thanks much! Steve

Hi, I have a 1931 Buick Model 57 that had problems with the Marvel carb. After rebuilding it, I finally gave up and am in the process of flipping the intake manifold. I got a 2 BBL adapter for it and made spacers for the front and rear bolts so the cup washers will fit flush. I'm thinking of using a WCD carb or an old Ford 2 BBL carb. Any thoughts here? I did not completely take off the exhaust manifold. The gaskets are copper. I ordered new gaskets from Bob's Automobilia but they are fiber type(not copper) so I'm tempted to reuse the old ones which seem to be relatively new? Should I lube them? And lube the cup washers? The 1931 Spec & Adjustments book does not seem to contain torque specs or order. Anyone have this info? Thanks much for your help! Steve<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Guys, I have a 1931 Buick Model 57 that had problems with the Marvel carb. After rebuilding it, I finally gave up and am in the process of flipping the intake manifold. I got a 2 BBL adapter for it and made spacers for the front and rear bolts so the cup washers will fit flush. I did not completely take off the exhaust manifold. The gaskets are copper. I ordered new gaskets from Bob's Automobilia but they are fiber type(not copper) so I'm tempted to reuse the old ones which seem to be relatively new? Should I lube them? And lube the cup washers? The 1931 Spec & Adjustments book does not seem to contain torque specs or order. Anyone have this info? Thanks much for your help! Steve

I have a 1931 Series 50 too as well as the Specifications & Adjustments book. Can someone please explain to me why the point timing procedure described in that book is so complicated? I never heard of having to take a valve cover off of a car to set the points? Thanks much! steve

Mark, Thanks much! I made a cork float & tried it without coating it. It absorbed too much gas! So I made another float & coated it with the Crazy Glue chemical. Should one coat do it? And how do you usually put it on? Thanks again, Steve

Hi, I'm rebuilding my 1931 Buick Model 50 Marvel Carb (I think it's a T-3). But I can't seem to find anything about how to set the float and what the setting is. I fabricated a new cork float. Thanks much for your help! Steve

:confused:Hi, Just wondering how you remove the grease caps over the spindles? Do you unscrew them or pop em off like more modern cars? Thanks much! Steve

Thanks much! just did that. Steve

Hi, I'm making a rat rod out of a very rough 1937 Buick Special. Just wondering how I can remove the dashboard. Thanks much! Steve<!-- google_ad_section_end --> :confused:

Hi, I'm making a rat rod out of a very rough 1937 Buick Special. Just wondering how I can remove the dashboard. Thanks much! Steve