odyssey
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Posts posted by odyssey
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How about joining the Midwest region? We have 2 meets/year in different areas and would love to see you. There's also the westrek - in Utah for 2012
Tom
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I've bought two of my cars at treks. 1931 and 1913. My 1910 came to me through Trek relationships. I had a 1925 that was bought at a trek. You never know...
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In the drawing file there are numerous parts in the very late drawings that are attributed to the Series 20. For example, there is a piston drawing and it calls out for a total of 8 required per car. They still had something up their sleeves, even at the bitter end. I don't think it was this Domark F-Head eight, though as the Domark engine came later.
T
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Hi Steve-
Dave Doman had it in his garage for many years and eventually donated it to Harrah's as I recall. I saw it there in the 1980's. I've got a photo of it. It is an interesting engine - cast iron block with integral finned cylinders and detachable heads. F-Head configuration. I believe it was installed in a Graham car for testing. 275 HP is rather inflated. The current owner has had it for sale at that price for quite a few years. There is info in ACN. Do you have an index handy?
See you in caz!
Tom
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Thanks Bob. I know Ken, will contact him.
Tom
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Thanks Justin -
Tom
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Working on an early '29 Brougham. Very nice, solid original car. The plan was to put it into operating condition as/is. Oddly, the back 1/4 of the frame is very badly rusted. It is not sound. We are intending to fabricate new frame sections for the rear, but before we begin, I thought it would be good to see if anyone know of a good frame or at least a good rear section? It's a lot of work to fabricate a rear frame section... Any leads?
Anyone have repro interior handle castings not done in stainless?
Does anybody want any if we make them in bronze?
Tom Rasmussen
Odyssey Restorations, Inc.
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The series 9 tops were black short grained cobra to match the original leather grain. Most known tops had tan inside lining, but some have been found with a green-ish whipcord like lining.
Hirsch sells a black short cobra with black lining that is the common economical substitute, but is rather coarse and shiny.
New, correct material is available on a limited basis direct from Eric Haartz and his Jonarts topping division. The hobby is blessed withEric's interest in correct period fabrics. He has limited ability to run these, so get it while you can!
Call him at 978-264-2600 Or use the Hirsch stuff if you want 2nd best.
Tom Rasmussen
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It's an SV-16. It was a CLub Sedan originally (have the body tags) and the goal is to restore it as a CLub Sedan. It would be simpler to fabricate an open body, but the goal is to restore it as it was. Challenging for sure, but if we could find a body....
Tom Rasmussen
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Looking for a closed production body - 1929-34, either sedan or Club sedan - regular, or long wheelbase. Have a late chassis, need a body - anything out there?
Reply here or email odyrestorations@aol.com
Thanks!
Tom Rasmussen
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Trying hard to make the New London to New Brighton tour in August. Clincher tires (35 years old) are failing - beads tearing. I will eventually make new rims for straight side tires, but for now could reallly use a 36 x 4 1/2 (or two) clincher so that I can make this tour. I've called all the tire guys, hoping to find an old stash, no such luck.
Any 36 x 4 1/2 or even 37 x 5 clinchers out there?
Tom Rasmussen
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Hi Peter -
One thought - It is important when lubricating springs is to be sure the shock absorbers are functioning well. The potential for spring breakage increases once the damping effect of dry leaf upon dry leaf friction is removed. With OEM shocks, lubed springs are great. With no shocks, lubed springs can bring some trouble.
I hope that helps a bit.
Tom Rasmussen
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The Gemmer was a very high quality box in its day. Lincoln, Pierce Arrow, Stutz Cord, duPont, etc.. did not use a cheap box. Franklin's box was not of any lesser quality but was smaller than the Pierce & Stutz boxes.
There are several problems with an old Gemmer box:
Thrust bearings on the worm were tapered roller bearings with the inner race integral with the worm. It was one-piece. When the bearing surface degrades- usually from spalling, the fix is to machine off the old inner race to fit a modern Timken.
Next the roller that is on the end of the sector shaft has thrust bearings held in cages. More than jsut teh 215 box had die cast cages. The cages can fail. The cages have no load, but the die-cast crumbles. If this happens the rollers usually stay in place until the box is disassembled. If the rollers are able to fall out of place, extreme end-play will result - like a 1/2 turn. It happened to me and the car was driveable, but not safe by any means. It does not happen at speed on the highway, it happens when you are trying to move the car in a tight spot and wrenching the wheels left and right full lock while still. The fix is to machine new cages for the rollers out of brass or similar. I once used Torrington thrust roller bearings as an off-the-shelf fix, but they were way too light for the loads and failed in heavy & hard use.
The toughest fix is for a worn worm and/or roller. After lots and lots of miles, the worm will wear in the straight-ahead position, creating free play in the wheel. An attempt to adjust this out results in binding on either side of center. Something that owners of a fair to good box will have to live with.
The fix here is to install a NEW worm & roller. Trouble is, these were made on a machine that ground the hourglass shape in such a way that seems to be impossible to produce on any modern equipment - lots have tried. Lo and behold - the Gemmer equipment is running in Argentina and it is possible to produce brand new worms and rollers made on the very machine that originally created them. They are currently available for Franklins - nobody has stepped up to undertake a project for other makes.
Grinding the sector shaft and refitting bushings and new seals and you have a new box.
With a good worm & roller, good bearings, properly adjsuted (follow instructions carefully - it takes a keen sense of touch) the Gemmer box is quite lovely. But a box with a worn worm will never feel 'as new' tight.
Tom Rasmussen
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Hi Chris -
Nice project and good story. I am in need of a White Starter/generator - the big huge box made by ENTZ. IF you have any leads, I would appreciate it. If I run across any of your needed chassis parts during my search , I'll let you know.
Tom Rasmussen
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Trying to make the HCCA Tour in July - need one 36x4 and one 36x4 1/2 clincher for my 1907 Franklin. Black is o.k. Or two of each. I'll have to make new rims this winter to allow for straight-sided tires. right now I have only clincher rims, cannot use a straight side tire. I hate to cancel - any extra out there?
Tom Rasmussen
Mpls, MN
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To be fair, I don't think his pricing is necessarily that far out of line. Ignition dealers routinely get $200 for such a cap that is NOS. The time involved in casting a new cap with mold-making, electrode setting, etc, is certianly high. There is an extremely limited market for this cap, hence a small run and higher cost per part.
But $200 is pretty standard for new stuff. Same for points and rotor. Ssearch and dig and they can be found for less at swap meets, from other Club Members, etc. But for one-stop-shopping, be prepared to pay more, sometimes much more.
Tom Rasmussen
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Steve -
This is posted on the HHFC website. I don't know how old it is. Stick with the Atwater-Kent if you can. It's such beautifully made stuff -
tom
Charles Bouteiller has reproduced the distributor caps for the Atwater Kent Model RA and others. For the cap: $100 Rotor $35 Points $35 His Phone is 413-528-2815, Monterey Rd, Great Barrington,
MA 01230 During the Winter, he can be reached at 352-793-9122, C.O. Sunter Oaks RV Park, 4602- County Road 673, Bushnell, FL 53513-8358
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Hi Steve -
The guy's name was Steve Boutillier (sp?)
I have not been able to find him in any of my rosters.
I thought he was in Indiana.
tom
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Hi Jon -
We are currently restoring 1932 and 1934 Stutzes - both SV cars. These cars had green engine blocks - but had been repainted. For the projects, we purchased a spare 1932 engine - original unrestored and it is dark green, as we beleive all late Stutzes were. Blocks were black until 1931, I beleive. I have never seen or heard of a reference to any other engine block colors on late Stutzes.
Good luck -
Tom Rasmussen
Odyssey Restorations, Inc.
Mpls, MN
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Champion 518 is current number. A few years ago, the 518 replaced the W18 in number only. Same plug.
Tom
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It sold for $540,000
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Steve - Ouch. I'd like to try to change your mind.
Come on down to the AACA Annual meeting in Feb, I am giving a seminar (powerpoint like I did at the Trek this year) on the restoration of the Marshall V/12.
Body metalwork technique on the V/12 was certainly below period standard, as the bodies were assembled by in-house employees, an attempt to control costs. Panel fit was inconsistent but final finish was very high inside and out. And the engineering/performance was phenomenal. Few engines matched the power/displacement ratio. I am not sure any matched engine power/weight ratio. How many 6,000 lb 90+ mph luxury cars were available for under $4,000 in 1932-34?
I think the V/12's get a bad rap mostly because they are not prevalent and so few have experience with them. Survival rate is very high - over 10%, a figure not realized on cars that were not 'good'. Even so, there are precious few in private hands and fewer yet being used with any regularity. While it is easy to point out faults and defects in the final product, I think those have owned and operated them would consider them to be vastly underrated.
I'm sorry I did not get a chance to give you a ride at the Trek in the Marshall car. I think you would have been impressed.
Best to you and your family for the New Year -
tom
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Thanks Ed, I'll give John a call. With enough interest, new worms and rollers can be made, but it takes a run of 50 and a sacrificial gearbox. Dick Pratt has done it for the Gemmer box in 1930-32 Franklins and the new parts are wonderful, but it will be a while before he uses up the 1st 50 sets. With little hope of getting new parts for my project, I am hoping to find decent used ones.
Tom Rasmussen
Odyssey Restorations, Inc.
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Looking for a Gemmer steering box - anyone have one? I have a worm and roller that are badly damaged.
Tom Rasmussen
Multi disc dry clutches
in HCCA General Discussion
Posted
Does anybody have any knowledge or experience with makes that used a multi disc dry clutch with NO friction linings? Iron on Iron, NOT running in oil? It appears as though Jackson did as such in 1909 - maybe Stutz for one year? Anybody heard of or seen such a clutch?
Tom Rasmussen