Tom_Overfield
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Posts posted by Tom_Overfield
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Hi Folks,
i have been been attempting to find information about the 41 Continental Cabrolet and Coupe build numbers and the only thing we all know is Lincoln built 400 Cabrolets 850 coupes. My idea is for the members here, to list the Vin numbers and Body numbers of their vehicles. . I will make a master list and print it here for reference. I do know that the Vin numbers for 1941 started at 107688 and ended at 129690, however there is no breakdown between Zephyrs and Continentals I can find. I'll start with my Cabrolet.
Thanks
Tom
Vin. 108119.
Body # 18
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Hi Mike,
i think I have this figured out with a lot of help from Tom Akins, who has a ton of knowledge about these cars and rewired a lot of them over the years. I will let you know how things turn out.
I known John Maglia's name from years ago, and he was the only source of dash plastic back then. I know he must have sold a bunch of knobs over the years.
My color is Darian Blue Poly, as was recorded on the production card so thats what I painted it. Did it in that garage with help from a friend who did most of the painting , and block sanding it four times. ( and I thought I was anal ) It turned out beautifully, not bad for a couple of hacks. The V-12 is sitting patiently on the running stand waiting to go back in. I rebuilt it years ago, even had it balanced while it was torn down and it runs smooth as silk. I can't wait till this wiring is finished, then in the motor goes.
What is the body # on your car Mike? Mine is 16H-56-18. Thanks for your gracious assistance.
Tom
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Let's see if I remember how to post some photos here.
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Thanks Mike,
I have that that same car, same color, but the interior is red, and the top is tan. I did get the main cowl harness in yesterday and it going to be chore to get under the dash and hook everything up. The issue concerning the harness to the rear is it is about 6 inches away from being able to connect to the main harness in the front. I got under the car in the rear, and the routing is in no way correct. Looks like I will need to pull the harness out and down out of the inside trunk area so I can re-route the wires and gain some additional length. Naturally the inside of the trunk has been restored so I am hoping the bottom piece of carpet will lift out. I also see your new knobs and steering wheel, Looks like a Kieth
Set to me, and the steering wheel as welI, I have the complete set also. Hint, the lettering should be red, the first few sets, mine included were white, no biggie at all really unless you intend to show it at meets. I just took a very fine brush and redid the lettering to red, not much effort at all. Any other photos greatly appreciated.
Tom
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Hi Folks,
The last thing to do for finishing my Continental is installing the entire wiring harness, not for the faint hearted, that's for sure. Does anyone know the correct location for the harness that runs from the front to the rear. Mine was installed when I had the upholstery installed, but I am quite sure it is not correct. Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Tom
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Find this place on line, Convertibletopguys.com. They list a front bow with the plate cutouts done for $355.00, cannot attest to the accuracy of their bows. There were some made years ago that needed a lot of work,to,make them fit, but their ad states these are accurate.
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I have the original bow from my 41 that was used for a pattern, the only bad is the right 6 inches or so was rotted away years ago, the left side is good, just flip the left to right and whoever you have doing the work will know what to do. I am in Kent, Ohio. You might check the vendor section for Boos-Herrell, he has tons of stuff, but for that bow, he asks you call to inquire.
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Bill, there is a book on eBay now that you might consider buying, by Ocee Rich about the,Lincoln Continental, there is a section in there about how you can set your points yourself using two 6 inch scales, I have done it several times over the years with great results. You need good eyes but I can be accomplished, just a thought.
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Jake Fleming, Dallas Tx is the guy you want, 214-333-3197
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Bill,
Could be a timing issue causing the power loss and overheating, Make sure the plug wires haven't been reversed somehow. I would also check the points closely, as if one set is bad, then your running on 6 instead of 12. While you are at it, check for any possible vacuum leaks. Lastly, have the water pumps been rebuilt?
Oh yeah, make sure the fan belt it not loose. You may also have to pull the radiator and take it to a shop that can rod the internal cooling passages, and that is a task in itself as that thing is heavy and awkward to pull up. Good luck.
Tom
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Check out Renu gas tank repair They cut the tank apart, clean everything inside, they coat the inside with a product they bake on, and the outside as well. My tank was horrible on my 41 and it came back as new. Wasn't cheap, but I couldn't find a replacement tank.
gas tank renu they have great web site.
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No idea on that one
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Best bet, a felt seal offered by Roy Nacewicz, web site is fordscript.com. The part # is D-002, and the price is $4.50 plus shipping. ,Phone number is 734-654-9450.
He also has the special thick headed bolts with no markings on them which Lincolns as well as Fords used.
And as Abe said, go to Amazon or eBay and get the John Deere corn head grease. best lubricate for the universal and clam shell.
Tom
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Type in 6-V generator to 6-V alternator conversations. Everything you need to know about it.
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I agree ,
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I put an intake valve conversion in my 12 and once back together started it in the cradle I built for it. Sounded smooth but when throttle was added, noticed a miss. To make a long story short, I let it run until It was at normal temperature and about ten minutes later it picked up a few rpm and was smooth as silk after that. I guess the offending valve was tight and with a bit of engine heat it freed that valve up. So you might give that a shot, start run with radiator attached keeping an eye on the engine temp and see if that doesn't help.
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about the only thing I could suggest would be pull the intake and the heads again (you may get by with pulling the head with the low compression) turn over the motor with the starter and watch for a sticking exhaust valve, the air coming from the tail pipe indicates that. If you can identify which valve is sticking, I would try two things, first soak the stem of the sticking valve with some good penetrating oil, let sit for awhile, soak again and turn the motor over and see what happens. If it doesn't close all the way, gently tap it down if you can, more penetrating oil and repeat till it frees up. You may have two sticking valves in the adjacent cylinders.
there is probably carbon on the stem and may be the culprit in not allowing the valve to close. If this fails, then you will have to
remove the guide, spring and valve assembly, remove the valve and check the stem closely. Remove any carbon you find, then polish the stem with some steel wool, the finest you can get. That should at least get your compression more in tune with the other cylinders.
Keep us posted
Tom
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you may very well be right. My engine is out on a stand with the fan on, I went out and looked before I wrote the suggestion about the fan, it appears to be a close fit to me but either way will work, I prefer the additional room of having the fan off.
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Disconnect battery cable, remove the radiator fan, (three special bolts on the backside of the fan). Remove the two wires on top of the distributor going to the two condensers. Remove the vacuum line from the distributor. Push the distributor bales (springs) off the the distributor caps, remove caps and let them hang by the wires. Remove the three bolts behind the distributor and remove distributor.
When installing, don't force anything, if it doesn't fit back properly, turn the drive lug on the rear of the distributor 180 degrees, you will notice the slot on the cam is offset so the drive for the distributor can only go on one way. Good luck, it's easier than it sounds.
If it doesn't come straight out after removing the three mounting bolts, it is simply stuck to the gasket, gently tap and it will come once the gasket seal is broken.
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I want to sincerely thank Dave Roycroft and L.D. Arrington for all of the planning and work they put into the Ferrum, Virginia " Lincolns in the Blueridge" meet this past week. Every day there was somewhere new to go, with transportation provided by Ferrum College, so nothing to do but get on the bus and relax. The grounds at Ferrum were groomed to perfection and the meals provided were just perfect. This had to be one of the best organized meets I have ever had the privilege of attending. The execution was flawless as far as I am concerned, with the weather perfect.
So, to Dave Roycroft and L.D. Arrington, Well done gentlemen.
Tom Overfield
Kent, Ohio
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I spoke with him a few weeks ago, he is still around.
Tom
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I think I would go to mac's auto and buy a 12 volt to 6 volt conventer. I have 12 volts in my 41 and I needed to get the converter for the instruments. You can run 12 volts on a starter if your brave, but on hydraulics, you might get a window that slams open or shut way to fast and that might be a serious problem.
I could be wrong, but for safety alone I would get the converter.
Tom
Vin numbers for 41 Continental Cabrolets and Coupes
in Lincoln & Zephyr
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Thanks Mike, appreciate the information. John Murphy, long time member sent me an e-mail this am and he is making me a copy and sending it after the holidays. It'll be interesting to see what's out there.
Tom