1965rivgs
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Posts posted by 1965rivgs
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I have researched the dash finishes via the actual components, assembly manuals and specified paint codes for those dash components; the finish on the dash parts should be flat from the horizontal molding immediately under the instrument pods and higher. Everything below that molding is semi gloss. The filler moldings at the outside ends of the dash are both flat and semi gloss with the break line corresponding to where those moldings form both the end of the instrument panel and the continuation of the lower dash.
The factory chose those finishes to reduce glare. That is why the wiper arms are unpolished....but ironically, the blades were supplied polished.
Over the years I've been asked by members if the wiper arms were originally unpolished and whether it is possible to polish them to a high luster. I have responded that they are able to be polished but the factory had good reason not to. I have had a handful of members get back to me to say they are sorry they did so because the glare from the wip
er arms is significant and very irritating.
Tom Mooney
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9 hours ago, NTX5467 said:
My observation has been that the number stamped on the sensor is to match the gauge upper limit rather than the ohms max.
Yes, POUNDS, not ohms. Communicating to the OP that the original sender as per part number is for a 60lb. gauge.
There are several choices on the Napa website with good specification info. WARNING- I did not check specs to determine which sender, if any, correlates with a 60 lb. gauge
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=oil pressure sender&referer=v2
Tom Mooney
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Hi Ken,
Interested in the small trumpet horn and the chrome air cleaner lid.
Thanks,
Tom
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Here are pics of an original '66 sender. I believe the "60" on the sender signifies it is a 0 to 60 ohm sender and the stamped part number, 6460470, is the correct part number in the Buick parts book.
For what it's worth, the few times I've worked on the factory sender/gauge I've found them relatively worthless. If you want to closely watch the numerical values you'll need to go to an aftermarket gauge
Tom Mooney
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41 minutes ago, gungeey said:
See below for correct application. They are readily available. It calls for a special socket as shown.
Do as 60FlatTop shows and while the unit is out check your pressure at hot idle.
If you're engine runs quiet you have enough oil pressure. If you didn't have enough oil pressure it would let you know 👍
Look long and deep enough you can always find a problem.
Steve, you pictured the switch for the idiot light; the `66 uses a sender for a gauge.
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On 4/16/2024 at 12:46 PM, Craig Balzer said:
Tom
The lug nuts that were improperly tightened were on a rim I no longer have - that is the one that sustained damage to the lug nut holes. The rim in my photo is a replacement rim procured by the garage (from a seller in Denver) and is currently in place on my car. Now I am worried this rim may be the wrong type/style/size/offset (a disaster waiting to happen).
I have noticed several threads mentioning 3 or more styles / types of rims each what I assume is differing off-sets. I never really understood the difference between them.
1) Which style / type of rim (the three digit number) ought I have on my 65 Riviera Gran Sport (I assume the one I photo'ed is a 895?) ? Where is this number found?
2) What is the proper offset I ought to have? (this may sound similar to question 1 above but inquiring minds want to know)
Hi Craig,
I could type all day about the chrome wheels; best to call me with your questions. You have my number.
Thanks,
Tom
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3 hours ago, Chasander said:
Tom very hard to see the shape of the inside of the baffle, maybe a wiggly
10 4...thanks for taking the time to supply a pic
Tom
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7 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Opinion only. What one likes another may not. Because you say it does not look good does not make it Gospel. You are entitled to your opinion.
Give us an example of what does look good. Does anything to you look good?
Later Gator
The Turbinator
Bob, my last comment was offered as an opinion and I intended that it would be regarded as one. As you know, opinions are like axxholes, everyone has one.
I think your wires wheels look good, but again, what`s one man`s opinion worth?
Tom Mooney
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11 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
Now -- how the h3ll can you tell that!! - 🤔 -- calibrated eyeballs??!!??
BTW - that rim needed to be replaced when a garage neglected to torque the 5x lug nuts. The old (original?) rim was held on with 2 lug nuts and the holes were well and truly auger-ed out. I was lucky to find it and didn't know it was "off" by 6 years
Trust me, it's the wrong wheel and most importantly the wrong offset.
If I understand your statement correctly, the lug nuts may have, in reality, been "tightened" but when offset is incorrect the inside edge of the rim contacts the fins of the brake drum before the center of the wheel contacts the axle. That gives the illusion the lugs are tightening when in fact the lug nuts are bending the rim. It's easy to stop tightening because as the rim distorts tightening the lug nuts requires increased effort but the rim is not properly seated against the axle. End result is the wheel may loosen up.
Beware of using 895 rims on a pre '70 application and beware of anyone who us recommending same; besides, it's the most unattractive version of the Buick chrome wheel because in overall appearance it lacks depth.
Tom Mooney
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4 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
These photos are from my 65 Riviera Gran Sport (made in December 64) -- may help.
Sorry for the dirty tires/rims - I live on a dirt road.
Craig, your chrome wheel is a '71 and up wheel.
Tom Mooney
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2 hours ago, Chasander said:
Pic of stove pipe, notice groove, must of been sold over the counter or I wouldn’t have it.
It was...see my post above. Since yours is NOS can you get a pic looking straight into the tube? My experience with troubleshooting the hot air choke system is that there should be an insert that looks like a twisted dipstick.
Tom Mooney
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Barney, there was an industry size designation change between `64 and `65. You are correct that the standard size tire in `63-`64 was the 7.10 but the oversize tire option was a 7.60. The `64 7.60 is the equivalent of the `65 8.45. The charts seem to often contradict each other but my guesstimate would be a 7.10 is comparable to a 215 and the 8.45 is somewhere between a 215 and 225; probably closer to a 225
Tom Mooney
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Gene,
As has been mentioned in our previous communications I have excellent cores for rechroming which suit your needs, ie, '64 Wildcat cores. The wheels are already boxed and ready to ship.
However, I do not have "like new" original examples.
As you may recall, in our initial conversation, I suggesting rechroming excellent cores to achieve your stated goal.
Thanks,
Tom
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I have not noticed shims at the firewall mounts but I've only actually replaced them several times...so it could have been done and I simply wasn't looking for it and didn't notice; they are in an area that's not typically visible.
Tom Mooney
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3 hours ago, telriv said:
NO, AND it is NOT replaceable as far as I know.
The tube has some kind of restriction inside of it to slow down the flow of hot air or else the incoming air would not be hot enough to heat up the choke coil.
One reason some replace the hot air choke coil with an electrically operated choke coil.
IF the system is working correctly, is, you will feel vacuum at the source where the rubber hose connects to the top of the carb. IF everything is sealed correctly.
Tom T.
The twisted insert in the tube swirls the air flowing through it, slowing it down and maximizing the heat transfer.
The complete tube inserts were available from Buick and I occasionally see them sold as an NOS part on Ebay. I wouldn't want to tackle changing one though.
Tom Mooney
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2 hours ago, BulldogDriver said:
Gordon, I thought the core body came painted before being put onto the frames. If so then the front clip would most likely have been painted in another plant and mated on final assembly, correct?
Amazing that the paint jobs were spot on.
Ray
They all weren't...very typical to find original paint cars with mismatched paint on the front clips. Most who have not been around will claim "can't be original, paint on the front clip doesn't match" but that typically doesn't concern me when inspecting an original car... unless I find evidence of a front end collision.
Tom Mooney
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7 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Here in North America, it's the yellow bottle for more heat over the blue propane bottle.
Check your stove pipe while the manifold is out Frank. Plug one end and blow on the other end. Mine leaks, rust?. I think it's a spiral tube so can't shove another brass tube inside.
It's not a spiral tube but is a tube with what can best be described as a twisted dip stick which is inserted in the tube
Tom Mooney
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You need more heat...ideally oxy/acet...try MAP gas, a low cost alternative, which you should be able to use with your current propane head. If the top of the studs are protruding above the manifold flange, and are rusty and corroded, try to clean those up as much as possible before you back out the studs. Or, if you can get access to one or both of the studs from above, drill a hole into the stud from the top so it can collapse. Otherwise, if you loosen the stud and try to turn out the corroded upper part of the stud through the threaded hole in the manifold, it will snap the manifold flange because the stud wants to force the hole larger. Ask me how I know!
Tom Mooney
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The defrost vent is also in the center on '64-'65 cars
Tom Mooney
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In `64 Buick described the chrome wheel option as "Formula Five" wheels with the "Five" depicted as a roman numeral. After `64 Buick simply described the optional wheels as "chrome wheels".
Tom mooney
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29 minutes ago, atencioee said:
@1965rivgs Hello Tom, I've been trying to reach you, including some unanswered calls/messages. I also sent a message to your inbox on AACA yesterday. Please see my message and respond.
Thank you. Kind regards, Gene.
Gene, I dont have any updates/change in status for you, no new info to share, but I will respond anyway.
Tom
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31 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
This would be the underhood harness correct? If so, the two bulkhead connectors will plug into the '64 bulkhead? Full size 1964 BUICKs cared-over the round bulkhead from '63 while Riviera was one step ahead with a new bulkhead in '64.
Good that wires are still good. Some say overkill and you already have wire wrap. But, I highly recommend self fusing silicone tape for underhood. Default colour was gray but now available in many colours. 1 mil Black available at HW Box stores. It has a higher temp rating.
Most harness connectors are Series-56 and it is Delphi in the US with Techspan here in Canada. A good industrial supplier is where I purchase connectors but also Farmer's HW Supply has them as well.
GM Packard 58 for Headlights:
Ditto relative to the `63 and `64 harness references...use a `64 harness in a `64
Tom Mooney.
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3 hours ago, Chasander said:
I never watch a Riviera being assembled, but watched “B” and “C” cars being assembled at times(Flint). . I’m almost sure radiator support was on the frame and then fender assemblies from each side of the line. (I said almost sure)
I`m not sure either...but I do know that the other big cars have a dedicated core support under which the mounts/shims are placed. The Riv is a little different because the mounts are placed under the inside fender wells and what would normally look like a core support is just a tie bar between the left and right sides. Dont know if that would make a difference in assembly technique.... I would assume it really doesnt make much difference, except to GM.
Tom Mooney
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1 hour ago, Chasander said:
Remember how these bodies were delivered to assembly plant. Doors were on (with skin) and aligned. Body was then dropped on to frame(with drive train). Radiator support then installed then fenders(with inners).
Exactly my thoughts many years ago when I started working on GM cars in general, ie, how were the cars originally assembled?
I imagine a measuring fixture was used at Fisher at the front top edge of the doors as a basic guideline, although aligning the doors to the rockers and quarters should certainly place the top of the doors very close to where they should be relative to the cowl assuming the body is assembled / welded within specs.
I would assume both front fenders were joined to the inner fenders and the tie bar (core support) through use of a jig and put in place as an assembly, but it has been decades since I researched the process in detail.
There is a paper presented by Buick engineering to the SAE which has been recently featured in the Riview that details the assembly process specific to the Riviera model complete with mention of the jigs applied to approximate dimensions in specific areas.
There are numerals written on the underside of the hood which can be seen on original cars which appear to be dimensions or shimming specs? There are usually two numerals presented in the format "5/6" which I assume are dimensions or shimming dimensions written by the assembly line folks while adjusting up the front clip.
I've always been entertained by the variance in dimensions found in the core support shims on original cars. I've always payed specific attention to this area after encountering my first bent frame on a Riviera. The factory shims were supplied in several dimensions to be stacked to achieve front clip alignment. Sometimes they are stacked rather high and sometimes there is very little shimming; surely a sign of additive variance from ideal component specs.
How cool would it be to go back in time and watch a first gen car be assembled starting at Fisher Body?
Tom Mooney
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Buick finned original valve cover
in Buick Riviera
Posted
Cut, heat, bend. weld
Tom Mooney