1965rivgs
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Posts posted by 1965rivgs
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15 hours ago, NTX5467 said:
Holley used to sell an add-on "thermister" to be the ground for the electric choke circuit. To tailor the amount of ground (and current flow) through the choke element to vary electricity with engine temps (less when warm). Sounded neat, so I got one for my first Holley on the Camaro, but didn't seem to work, so I took it off.
Chevy also used the oil pressure sending unit to ground that OEM choke circuit, too. That way, only when the engine is running. Had two terminals on the top of it rather than the single one for "warning lights".
NTX5467
Three terminals
Tom
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10 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Exactly, "Sealer or Teflon Tape" on NPT Sensor threads. Just like adding a ground wire when re-installing our fuel tanks. I use SWACK sealant sparingly.
So, if the COLD light doesn't work because of excess sealant, the same would be the case for the HOT light. Running blind! Both use a common ground.
Sensor should last forever seeing how we use our classic rides today. I have the COLD Light normally closed contacts on a relay. So, definitely last forever.
How does the load of the relay windings on the switch/sender compare to the load of a small dash light bulb?
Tom
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2 hours ago, moran75 said:
.... thing is, car had been to a mechanic a while ago to do some work on the intake manilfold and in process, the carb itself was taken off - been in back of mind as to whether they retained the metal baffle plate, as something looked diff ...anyway finally took carb off to have a look ...that's when i noticed some kind of sealant/thread locker not only on bolts as i originally mentioned, but also on the threads of the brake vacuum line and the trans vacuum line....
emphatic NO to the bolts question 😀, how about the threads on the vacuum lines? ...no doubt not solely a locker, but something to ensure vacuum as well? Is it neccessary/good practice?
thanks in advance
Kev
NO...those are flare lines and seal on the flares, not the threads. Sealant can be used on the fitting which installs into the carb body which is pipe thread-think plumbing
Tom
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Member can simply check the new sender for continuity to ground when the engine is cold.
Did he use sealer or teflon tape when installing the new sender? I have experienced that interfe
re with grounding in regard to senders.
Tom Mooney
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6 hours ago, moran75 said:
... does anyone use thread locker on carb to intake bolts? ...
NO
Tom
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11 hours ago, Rivdrivn said:
Ah… very astute question. It’s actually not a Westchester at all. It is a 1940 Graham but with a real ‘37 Cord front clip. It’s also a nicely done street rod with GM suspension, crate motor (no supercharger) and all the modern conveniences.
Graham bought the sheetmetal dyes from Cord, correct? My father had a Hollywood Graham with supercharger.
Tom Mooney
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32 minutes ago, rocketraider said:
Remove them and soak in some hot water and mild detergent. You'll be surprised how dirty the water gets. This also tends to soften the belt webbing a bit, enough that it will usually start to slide thru the buckles.
A couple of blasts of compressed air before the soak will sometimes dislodge 60 years of built-up crud and free up the latches. Use some type of "dry" lubricant spray.
Hi Glenn,
Since you are an Oldsmobile guy......I`m searching for NOS `64 Oldsmobile Brown Line front seat belts in medium blue. If you have any or know someone who might, please send me a PM.
Thanks,
Tom Mooney
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1 hour ago, Deanoko said:
Good info guys. I suspect the webbing has taken a "set" as this car has no discernable corrosion anywhere, having been in heated indoor storage with no salting of roads in it's life. I will fiddle with them in earnest and may reach out to you Tom on your set(s?)
Thanks,
Dean
Dean, as an addendum, the issue you describe regarding the latch concerns me most. I should have a addressed same in my reply.
Part way through the `64 model year, Brown Line, which was one of the `64 seat belt manufacturers, conducted a voluntary campaign through Buick to supply updated seat belt buckles due to a flaw in the original product. Buick requested seat belt sales data from the dealers and in response Brown Line sent replacement seat belts. The dealer was then instructed to notify the customers to bring their cars back to the dealer for installation of the updated product. I suspect the flaw in the buckles is exactly what you are experiencing. I dont know which of the components in the buckles was upgraded, or if the entire latching mechanism was reengineered?
Tom Mooney
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Dean,
The lock bar inside the buckle is originally finished with a di-chromate process that corrodes with time. Also, the belt material stiffens with age and takes a "set" around the lock bar.
The buckles can be disassembled and the parts cleaned up but the process is tricky to avoid bending/damage to the buckle. It took me about 3 sets to nail down the ideal prying tools and to determine the correct order of disassembly...and each time I do it, I feel I`m still on the learning curve because I dont do it often and, on occasion, I do several different `60`s styles which differ significantly re their components and order of disassembly.
I do have NOS buckle ends with belts and anchors which are in the original box and are for sale if you want to minimize labor time and achieve a superior end result. If interested please send a PM.
Thanks,
Tom
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
I just looked at @Dundee ‘s latest post where he shows progress on his 63. In one of the pictures he shows his instrument panel. The whole panel is lying on its top. In that picture there appears to be less room between the top of the speedometer bezel and the other bezel. But the centers and the bottoms are parallel to the bottom of the housing. Perhaps that closer distance is causing your eyes to think the one is higher than the other. ????
Maybe the OP's eyeballs look like your avatar?
TM
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The valve covers in Seattle look like bad repops to me.
The valve covers in Phoenix are technically '65 valve covers.
The valve covers in Montana are the '66 versions.
Tom Mooney
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9 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
I need to replace mine; it is cracked at 2 and 10 o'clock.
I have found several options:
$250 at Bestoffercounts on eBay
$207 at Summit
$190 at OPGII found nothing at Cars
That is quite a spread in prices.
Is one source better than other? -- or are they all ultimately the same quality from asingle source?
Which is the best buy?
TIA
Craig
Don't know anything about the shrouds in the links but I am sure Cars was offering a reproduction for years which apparently had some fitment issues and in Australia Tony Gentilcore (sp?) was also offering a reproduction.
Tom Mooney
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Cut, heat, bend. weld
Tom Mooney
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I have researched the dash finishes via the actual components, assembly manuals and specified paint codes for those dash components; the finish on the dash parts should be flat from the horizontal molding immediately under the instrument pods and higher. Everything below that molding is semi gloss. The filler moldings at the outside ends of the dash are both flat and semi gloss with the break line corresponding to where those moldings form both the end of the instrument panel and the continuation of the lower dash.
The factory chose those finishes to reduce glare. That is why the wiper arms are unpolished....but ironically, the blades were supplied polished.
Over the years I've been asked by members if the wiper arms were originally unpolished and whether it is possible to polish them to a high luster. I have responded that they are able to be polished but the factory had good reason not to. I have had a handful of members get back to me to say they are sorry they did so because the glare from the wip
er arms is significant and very irritating.
Tom Mooney
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9 hours ago, NTX5467 said:
My observation has been that the number stamped on the sensor is to match the gauge upper limit rather than the ohms max.
Yes, POUNDS, not ohms. Communicating to the OP that the original sender as per part number is for a 60lb. gauge.
There are several choices on the Napa website with good specification info. WARNING- I did not check specs to determine which sender, if any, correlates with a 60 lb. gauge
https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=oil pressure sender&referer=v2
Tom Mooney
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Hi Ken,
Interested in the small trumpet horn and the chrome air cleaner lid.
Thanks,
Tom
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Here are pics of an original '66 sender. I believe the "60" on the sender signifies it is a 0 to 60 ohm sender and the stamped part number, 6460470, is the correct part number in the Buick parts book.
For what it's worth, the few times I've worked on the factory sender/gauge I've found them relatively worthless. If you want to closely watch the numerical values you'll need to go to an aftermarket gauge
Tom Mooney
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41 minutes ago, gungeey said:
See below for correct application. They are readily available. It calls for a special socket as shown.
Do as 60FlatTop shows and while the unit is out check your pressure at hot idle.
If you're engine runs quiet you have enough oil pressure. If you didn't have enough oil pressure it would let you know 👍
Look long and deep enough you can always find a problem.
Steve, you pictured the switch for the idiot light; the `66 uses a sender for a gauge.
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On 4/16/2024 at 12:46 PM, Craig Balzer said:
Tom
The lug nuts that were improperly tightened were on a rim I no longer have - that is the one that sustained damage to the lug nut holes. The rim in my photo is a replacement rim procured by the garage (from a seller in Denver) and is currently in place on my car. Now I am worried this rim may be the wrong type/style/size/offset (a disaster waiting to happen).
I have noticed several threads mentioning 3 or more styles / types of rims each what I assume is differing off-sets. I never really understood the difference between them.
1) Which style / type of rim (the three digit number) ought I have on my 65 Riviera Gran Sport (I assume the one I photo'ed is a 895?) ? Where is this number found?
2) What is the proper offset I ought to have? (this may sound similar to question 1 above but inquiring minds want to know)
Hi Craig,
I could type all day about the chrome wheels; best to call me with your questions. You have my number.
Thanks,
Tom
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3 hours ago, Chasander said:
Tom very hard to see the shape of the inside of the baffle, maybe a wiggly
10 4...thanks for taking the time to supply a pic
Tom
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7 hours ago, Turbinator said:
Opinion only. What one likes another may not. Because you say it does not look good does not make it Gospel. You are entitled to your opinion.
Give us an example of what does look good. Does anything to you look good?
Later Gator
The Turbinator
Bob, my last comment was offered as an opinion and I intended that it would be regarded as one. As you know, opinions are like axxholes, everyone has one.
I think your wires wheels look good, but again, what`s one man`s opinion worth?
Tom Mooney
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11 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
Now -- how the h3ll can you tell that!! - 🤔 -- calibrated eyeballs??!!??
BTW - that rim needed to be replaced when a garage neglected to torque the 5x lug nuts. The old (original?) rim was held on with 2 lug nuts and the holes were well and truly auger-ed out. I was lucky to find it and didn't know it was "off" by 6 years
Trust me, it's the wrong wheel and most importantly the wrong offset.
If I understand your statement correctly, the lug nuts may have, in reality, been "tightened" but when offset is incorrect the inside edge of the rim contacts the fins of the brake drum before the center of the wheel contacts the axle. That gives the illusion the lugs are tightening when in fact the lug nuts are bending the rim. It's easy to stop tightening because as the rim distorts tightening the lug nuts requires increased effort but the rim is not properly seated against the axle. End result is the wheel may loosen up.
Beware of using 895 rims on a pre '70 application and beware of anyone who us recommending same; besides, it's the most unattractive version of the Buick chrome wheel because in overall appearance it lacks depth.
Tom Mooney
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4 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
These photos are from my 65 Riviera Gran Sport (made in December 64) -- may help.
Sorry for the dirty tires/rims - I live on a dirt road.
Craig, your chrome wheel is a '71 and up wheel.
Tom Mooney
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2 hours ago, Chasander said:
Pic of stove pipe, notice groove, must of been sold over the counter or I wouldn’t have it.
It was...see my post above. Since yours is NOS can you get a pic looking straight into the tube? My experience with troubleshooting the hot air choke system is that there should be an insert that looks like a twisted dipstick.
Tom Mooney
1969 Buick Riviera Rally/Chrome Wheels
in Technical
Posted
Ferris...
895 wheels have a 2 inch center cap opening...the fluted center caps as manufactured will not fit because they have retainers designed for the 2 1/8 openings; but, there are adapter retainers available from Cars in N J to make the fluted caps work on an 895 wheel. Keep in mind the offset on the 895 wheels are not correct for your car and will require a spacer.
Your 802 wheels with the 2 inch center cap opening are `65 wheels and will be a direct fit for your Riv (assuming it does not have disc brakes), but also have a 2 inch center cap opening.
The `66-`67 1/2 wheels are coded 802 and have a 2 1/8th center cap opening which will accept the fluted center caps but will not work with disc brakes.
The "correct" wheels for your car are coded 853 and also have a 2 1/8th center cap opening, will accept the fluted caps as designed, and will work with disc brakes.
Hope this helps,
Tom Mooney