Moparbob

52er- As long as I disconnect the battery after I drive her, I haven't had ANY problems. She starts and runs/charges just fine. 'Course, I'm not giving her the chance to disappoint me! Bob.

Doubt if I'll encounter dilution problems as temperature gauge stays midway through arc, only climbs again with idling and low speeds, not nearly as bad as it was. Know I have air flow issues, next step is to install a 6 volt pusher in front of radiator. Hope generator can keep-up with extra demand. I'm keeping her stock-NO FRONT CLIP!! Bob.

Little bit of F.Y.I.- Removed rad. and thermostat housing this A.M. to flush out block and found rubber washer stuck in housing, restricting flow somewhat. Suspect was left in housing after changing thermostat in past. Removed, and re-installed WITHOUT thermostat with no overheating problems at idle and slow speeds as before. Summer is here already in So. Cal., and will run as described 'till something comes up. Don't think it will hurt anything running it this way. Any comments? Bob.

"There is a principle which is a bar against all information, which is proof against all arguments and which cannot fail to keep a man in everlasting ignorance--that principle is contempt prior to investigation."-Herbert Spencer. I want to thank everyone for this thread. It has been one of the most interesting I have read since I have registered on this board. Jon, America thanks you for your obvious patriotism. Now, apply that to the right to bear arms, freedom of speech, and the freedom to do whatever I want to do with what I own and buddy, you will really be on the right track! LOL. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I have laughed at some of these posts (you are a creative lot!); shook my head; and realized that I am not only proud to be an American who owns a "tank" at the age of 56--cruisin' shamelessly with my wife on Sundays and having a blast like when we WERE teen-agers, I am grateful to know that there are still those of us who value a nice piece of steel. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Have a great day! Bob <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Tired of the hassle. Considering sub framing car with small block Mopar or Slant 6. Auto tranny, more "modern" front end, disc brakes, etc. Know I'm gonna p--- off some purists, but I want a dependable driver. Any ideas on a donor car? Bob.

Thanks... Now I have a choice on who's gonna overcharge me. LOL Bob.

Well, Its been awhile. She's starting every time now, without protest.(Knock on wood!). Guess we unknowingly fixed the problem. Thanks, everyone... Bob.

Other than Andy Bernbaum, Kanter, and Roberts, is there any other parts sources out there for us? I know our cars are not as common as the other brands, but you'd think there'd be more places to get our parts. Thanks, Bob. P.S.- Once we figure it out, we'll post pics of our "Lucy".

O.K.-After hooking-up switch between two posts on solenoid, starter works with ignition switch on. But, keyed ignition switch works now, too. Coincidence? Or can a solenoid work intermittantly, like only when cold? I know heat increases resistance, but it's only been in the 60's here lately. Frustrating when you pay towing to shop, diagnose fees, etc. and car is still not repaired right. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bob.

Post deleted by Moparbob

Solenoid went out today. Have to jump across large and small lugs. Nobody has them. Talked to Andy Bernbaum's parts guy- was told VERY hard to get, and if found, would be mucho $$$$. Neutral safety is stuck in closed position, or by-passed. Starts in any gear since I bought the car. Ever heard of a rebuild kit for these, and if so ,where are they? Car has a flathead 6, six volt, positive ground. Might run a seperate starter button inside car. Funky/Retro kinda thing. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bob.

Wanting to upgrade my charging system. Found 6 volt positive ground alternator at Quick Start Automotive Electric. Sounds almost too good to be true. Anybody have feedback on this, and if so, any tips? Thanks- Bob.

Post deleted by Moparbob

Kanter has 'em for 125.00-200.00 according to their catalog. I'm having the same problem, even after having the original carb. rebuilt by a "Professional". Too bad it started leaking after the 90 day "Warranty"- and he wouldn't honor it. Maybe thats why I'm only getting 9-10 M.P.G. around town, 'ya think? Oh, well, live and learn. I'm gonna get one soon as budget allows. Gotta get front end fixed first- new upper and lower outer pin kits.

Actually,it was the (-) side of the batt. Culprit was bad regulator. Replaced this afternoon, and so far everything's fine (Knock On Wood!!). Not sure, but it looks like I fixed the parasitic draw on batt. Killed two birds with one stone! Imagine that. Bob.

Well, It seems I have yet ANOTHER problem to address....Ammeter shows constant discharge at any engine speed. Getting 6.3-6.4 volts off "A" terminal at gen. at little over idle (approx 1000 r.p.m.)4.2 -4.3 volts at idle, but when I disconnect (+) side of batt. when engine is running, the engine immediately dies. Suspecting regulator. Bob.

O.K.- Please enlighten me....What do you mean by "Power Time"? I'ts not some sordid joke like "Go get me a left-handed muffler bearing" is it? Bob.

I've got a 53 flathead, so this MIGHT fit-I'm not sure. Don't know what brand it is, but your parts store should have a cross reference chart. The number is - 51062. It might be a Wix filter. Hope this helps. Bob.

'Ya Know,when we bought our "Lucy" in June of this year, it was a dream come true after 32 years. That was the last time I owned a classic car. Life has not dealt me the best of hands. (some I've had control of, some not!) When we were FINALLY able to do it, we chose the Chrysler because she was in our price range, and she was different. Not like the other "common" brands you see every day. After owning her for awhile,though,I realized she was unlike any car I've owned before. Quirky, actually. I needed help. Then I found the W.P.C. You folks have helped me so much these last few months. Desoto Frank, Rusty, BaronvonR, 52er-the knowledge I've gained from you is invaluable! Thanks to ALL the members who unselfishly helped me out of so many problems. In closing, I'd like to wish you all a Happy, Safe, and Prosperous New Year!! Bob and Mona.

Greetings and Merry Christmas to all!! Bob here. Want to clean/detail engine compartment on the '53 flathead, but I don't know what the correct engine color or the colors for the accessories (oil-fill tube,waterpump,oil filter can, etc.) were. Doesn't have to be perfect, as it's a daily driver. Just want to clean 'er up a bit...Any Ideas?

O.K.- Does this mean I should remove the head and [clean/scrape?] the pistons of carbon build-up? I don't have a detonation or pinging problem. Or should this be done as a purely maintenance procedure? Lord knows if it's ever been done. The car runs GREAT! I'm really impressed by the torque this engine puts out. It just pulls and pulls and pulls! Thanks, Bob.

Hey, Guys. I think this has been discussed before, but my neighbor thinks I should use a lead additive to my fuel because I drive the car daily. I told him the car came with hardened valve seats as per that forum topic, but he asked about the valves themselves. I also explained the fuel quality today is much better than it was fifty-three years ago and that other members have not experienced any problems of record. Whadda ya 'tink? Bob.

Hey, Chris- Welcome!! Try Great Old Cars on the net. They'll decode your V.I.N. and your trim tag for about $10.00. Good Luck, Bob.

Might also try "Fasteners Plus". Saw several clips on that site. Bob

1953 Chysler Windsor Deluxe. The fuel gauge has never worked. Always reads "Full" whether ground at sender is connected or disconnected. Needle returns to "Empty" when key is off. Sometimes needle sticks on "Empty" when key is on, but go's right to "Full" after tapping dash with finger. Installed new sender to no avail. Common sense tells me it's the gauge, but does anybody have other suggestions? How do I test this circuit? Couldn't find anything in the manual. Thanks, Bob