Jump to content

gundog99

Members
  • Posts

    417
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by gundog99

  1. My 2249 Dodge Senior is fitted with a Stan Howe restored OX-2. The High Speed mixture adjustment is 2 1/2 full turns from stop, what I am not sure about is the Idle mixture adjustment: Stan Howe recommends 3/4 turn from stop but I have read that I should consider one or two full turns.  

  2. After cleaning out a large amount of sludge from the block and fitting Ron's superbly made side plate ,four years of over heating problems for the main part have  been sorted out.

    Yesterday I used the car on a 20 mile jolly to the coast, in hot (for the uk) 33c heat.It cut out in a traffic jam and after driving slowly on the way home.

    The problem starts when the fuel stops flowing through the glass filler to the carburettor; I lift the bonnet to let the engine cool down a bit after four or five minutes the fuel will suddenly starts to flow agin.

    I wonder if this is a problem with the  Stuart Vacuum tank vacuum / vent sticking when hot ?

     

  3. Looking at the underside pictures of the  Victory Six showing the steering rod, has remind me to post the photographs of an original Chrysler mopar steering rod Gaiter of unknown date. I have stupidly lost the box it came in.

    I suspect  this is the most neglected part of a vintage car in terms if restoration and maintenance.This is not helped by the unavailability of new bolt (ball) part 174 and more critically the case harden cups.I was lucky enough to by a set of secondhand cups, still case hardened, to replace the ones in the photograph, one of the original cups was 1 mm oversize or 39.37 thousands 

    The two linkages on the rod are possibly the most exposed to road dirt and water on the car. I made two garters about ten years age, for one of my great grandmother  kid skin gloves; these were based on the Chrysler design, but doubling the height from 16mm to 30mm and tapering the top to a near fit; the steel casing part I made from  brass .Last year I took one of the off to find out how effective it was, the grease was completely free of dirt.P1020618_edited-3.jpg.6c68c374a0909dbefe12c748a75308b5.jpg 

    P1020619.JPG

    P1020623_edited-1.jpg

    Scan 15.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. I have had the same problem for about three years now and have tried a number of ideas with limited success. a possible problem with modern fuel is slow ignition, resulting in some of the petrol burning in the manifold,this cause overheating, by setting the advance a few degrees more than the manual setting does help.

    I am tuning my Senior at the moment and have spent some time making sure the points and spark plugs are in good condition with accent gape setting .Today I will check everything  with my digital timing kit.

    Have a read of  Matt's "Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster"? There is a very useful bit about converting his victory six manifold and a senior manifold. Matt has fitted electronic ignition in his car ,I will be doing the same soon.

     

    Update.

    I took my time and was very careful to get the settings absolutely right (adding 2 degrees of advance) I still need to check all by setting digitally. i took the Dodge for a 10 mile run, driving fairly hard to get the engine nice and hot, no sputtering and  ran very smoothly; it  remains to be seen if it cuts out when idling in traffic. Perhaps using moden speck petrol  means we now need to regularly check our cars are in tune.

    • Like 1
  5. Thank you for your offer to help, I know I must take it off soon but not until I have built a replacement. Sometime ago i was been given a large sheet of copper more than enough for the outer jacket ,luckily I have a spare water jacket to make a copy from. Do you have any more photographs showing the construction of the outer jacket.

  6. I took the water pump off to check the bronze impeller and everything is as it should be. I asked Matt how much extra advance he had added, I therefore  increase my setup by adding 4 deg; this  appears  to have cured the  overheating problem, however  the engine sounds a bit harsher but seems to be a bit more  powerful . May has been very cold, I will only know for certain when running the car in hot (for the UK) weather, if I have finally sorted out the problem.

    I did reverse flush the cooling system a few times before fitting a new thermostat, but am now removing the lower hose before refilling with fresh water

  7. I used Fernox Cleaner F3 used in central heating systems in the UK, then Thermocure; I think it is much the same as Evapo Rust rust, remover possibly a refined molasses liquid. I have a major problem flushing the system out, very hard mains water. I am still flushing out rust as brown water and flacks of iron by running the car filled with distilled water which I drain when hot and refill at regular intervals. Ron has confirmed my suspicion that  a lot of gunk still remains in the base of the water chamber.

×
×
  • Create New...