KongaMan
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Posts posted by KongaMan
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Take the pink wagon. It's cool as hell.
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46 minutes ago, Smartin said:
I usually see around 5.5 volts, but I don’t think that has anything to do with the current problem.
Nor do I; I'm just sayin...
BTW, when I was diagnosing my ignition switch problem, everything looked good in the static tests. It wasn't until I put an analog multimeter on the coil and drove around (windshield wiper makes a great clamp
) that I could see the needle crater in time with the engine stumbling.
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IMHO, there was some overlap between the divisions. We had a 67 Chevy Caprice wagon for a while. Big engine, fully optioned. It weren't no budget ride. Looked like this (same color and everything; wish I had it now):
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1 hour ago, dmfconsult said:
Have 4.9 volts at the coil with ignition ON but engine not running.
Seems a little low.
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I had a similar problem on a vehicle once. It was a bad ignition switch.
I was too lazy to disassemble the steering column to replace the switch, so I put a jumper across the switch (from 12V to IGN terminal) with a toggle switch on it. Start the car, turn the toggle switch on. Shut off the car, flip it to off. Kind of a PITA, but it worked flawlessly.
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There are two MCs: Delco and Bendix. One takes the short plunger, the other the long. Sounds like you got the wrong one.
IIRC, Bendix has the deep hole and takes the long shaft. It also has a screw-on cover while the Delco is held on with a wire clip.
I think the fittings are 9/16-18 and 1/2-20.
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1 hour ago, RivNut said:
But we all know the Riviera is the better car. 😎
Objectively speaking, I don't see how anyone could think that the contemporary Thumnderbird (cool as it may be) is near the car the Riviera is.
Not to drink too much of the Kool-Aid, but the first generation Riviera is one of (if not the) best engineered domestic cars from that period.
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How much darker can you be than black? 🤪
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For a true dye, you'd probably want to pull the carpet.
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Get a 12-32 die and maybe you can make a new rod or repair the old one.
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Perhaps judicious use of a multimeter prior to applying power might be advisable.
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You can probably make a cable from bicycle cable sheathing and music wire.
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The second problem is going to be how you slip it over the coiled end. You might end up at Home Depot buying something like this:
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I dunno. I've always thought the 65 Riviera was a step back from 64, while the 65 T Bird convertible with the tonneau option was pretty fine. Mechanically, though, I might give the Riviera the edge.
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Hit it with a hammer?
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IMHO, the 63 Riviera beats the 63 T-Bird in a walk. One might then suggest that it was the Riviera which prompted the redesign of the T-Bird for 64. And let's be honest here: the 64-66 T-Bird was a good looking car.
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6 hours ago, RivNut said:
Or 3Ms 08984 General Purpose Adhesive Remover. It took me a couple of days, but I removed pine tree SAP from an 85 Riv that I had using this stuff. The sap was so bad, that at first I thought the paint had been exposed to some chemical and I was going to have to repaint. Nope, 08984, a pile of rags, and some elbow grease. I've always had good luck with 3M products.
I had a similar situation with a car. Tree droppings that were immune to even Bug & Tar Remover. The solution was straight Dawn on a microfiber cloth. Took it right off with no discernable damage to the paint.
For other adhesive removal, it's hard to beat straight naphtha.
As for the doors: "rubber" may not be the best choice, as it's often not as compressible and won't form as well to variations the surface.
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How thick are they? One might think any good closed cell foam of the proper thickness would do the trick -- and be better material to boot. Cut it to shape, a nice coat of spray adhesive, and they'll probably be in fine shape when you die.
There is also thin foam with an integrated adhesive backing (e.g. this stuff), but it may not be worth the effort to buy it when readily available options of arguably equal quality exist.
Whatever you get, you don't want something too hard. That is, you want something pliable that will compress from the relatively light pull of the spring or diaphragm.
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Projects like this are why you need a contour gauge in your toolbox:
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Just because you can do something that doesn't mean you should.
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The accumulator (or accumulator/drier) is the part to the left with the little round glass window on top (there may be a cap over the glass). It's got the line coming in from 4 o'clock with a 90° bend.
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Yepper.
Folks have done home arcing, rubbing the shoes against sandpaper glued to the inside of the drum. Seems to me that might take a while, and I'd also wonder about abrasive getting stuck in the pads.
If someone is really fired up about this, a local auto repair shop that's been in business forever might have an arcing setup that they no longer use (maybe because no one knows what it is
). You might be able to get it for a song.
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That panic stop might take care of the arcing.
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5 hours ago, Bloo said:
Now that so few people daily drive their old cars, I suspect the shoes might never break in.
This is true. I put new shoes on the 63 a few years ago (don't remember when, but it's been a while). I just replaced the fronts because a wheel cylinder leaked all over one of them. Even though the car was driven regularly, they still weren't broken in; the contact patches were clear. I suppose that if I'd been doing the daily stop-and-go work commute that wouldn't be the case, but when most of the driving is on semi-isolated country roads or freeways (i.e. recreational), there's not a lot of braking going on.
) that I could see the needle crater in time with the engine stumbling.
64 Dual MC conversion questions.
in Buick Riviera
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Don't use too much persuasion; you don't want to bung up the fitting.
If that's going to be a problem, you could run the rear line through the junction block (plug the other holes) and fab a new line with a tee for the front. That's not the way folks normally do this, but it's easier than reflaring, patching, or replacing the main line to the rears.