Tom_Tams
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Posts posted by Tom_Tams
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I have some questions regarding the plugging of heat risers. My heat riser valve is non functioning as the butterfly has been removed. The base of the carb becomes very warm as a result. My questions are, has anyone blocked the exhaust gasses from entering the heat chamber of the intake manifold? If so, how was it done and what was the result?
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I was able to locate one, Bob of Bob's Automobilia had one, I bought it.
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Thanks, he didn't have one listed that I could find but I inquired and yes, he does. Thanks again.
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I need a universal joint for my '39 Special. I found one on Classic NOS Parts but I'm not sure it will fit. According to the listing on the web site it is suposed to fit my car Part# 1309468 and/or '40 Pontiac and '37-'40 Oldsmobile part#509295. My interchange book doesn't show it interchanging with anything.
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I am looking for a U Joint for my '39 Special. The part is group 5.548 part# 1309468. Classic NOS Parts has one listed but is also listing the same part as fitting a '40 Pontiac and a '37 t0 '40 Oldsmobile. My interchange book does not make this connection,as a matter of fact, it does not list Buick part# 1309468 as interchanging with anything. Does anyone know if it is the same part? The Pontiac-Olds part# is 509295.
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I just checheck Steele Rubber's on line catalog, they have on listed for a '39-40 series 40 and 1941 series 40, 60, & 90. The Steele part # is 50-0259-54. It might work for your '38.
Tom Tams
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Thanks Mike, you're absolutely right, I checked it out in my '38 manual and that's what it says. The only reason that I can think of would be to limit the flow of oil into the bearing.
Tom Tams
Duncan, BC,
Canada
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I'm in the process of overhauling the transmission for my series 40. One thing that struck me as rather odd is that the input bearing that I removed was a sheilded bearing as is the replacement bearing. The odd thing (to me) is that the outer sheild had been removed but the inner sheild was in place. I don't uderstand why that would be the case. If it is desired to lubricate the bearing with trans. oil then it would make sense to me to remove the inner sheild and leave the outer one in place. Just wondering.
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I'm about to tear my '39 apart for umpteenth time and change the clutch and overhaul the transmission. I would like to change the pilot bearing too, does any one know how to remove it from the crankshaft? It is a roller bearing in a cage, not a bushing.
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Hello Grant, I'm personally betting on the input bearing, it's started popping out of gear a lot.
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I've checked the entire front suspension, engine mounts, wheel bearings, replaced sway bar bushings, rotated the tires and had them balanced, the vibration is still there. While test driving the car, I noticed that the vibration stopped and remained stopped until I got going again after stopping at an intersection. After I got back into 3rd gear and the vibration resumed, I pushed the clutch in and let it back out, the vibration was gone. I repeated this several times with the same result. The area of concern would appear to be related to the clutch and transmission, not a happy thought.:confused:
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Thanks for the advice gentlemen, I've followed it and, so far, I've managed to diminish the vibration considerably. The tie rod ends are fairly new and in good shape as are the rest of the suspension components, what I've done so far is to rotate the tires (cris-cross, they're bias ply), checked the tire balance (static, I'll dynamically check them later) and tighten the sway bar links (they were loose).
Thanks again, Tom
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I've got a noticeable vibration in my steering of my series 40 '39 sedan. It goes from being barely noticeable when the car and tires are cold, increasing in intensity with distance driven. It seems to be most noticeable around 30-35mph. I've checked the wheel bearings, king pins, "A" arm bushings and tires. It seems to steer alright so I don't think the alignment is too far out. I'm starting to show signs of frustration. I even pulled the rear end out and checked the "U" joint, it seems to be fine. The only other thing that I can think of is a bent or out of balance drive shaft.
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Thanks Ron, Now that I took the time to check the lub chart at the back of my '39 manual, the information is the same.
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Hi John, Thanks, that clears it up, I thought that that was the only thing that made sense. I think I'll leave the inner seals alone, they don't look or feel that bad.
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The Buicks have an inner and outer seal on the rear axles. Are the bearings lubricated with grease? My seals were passing enough oil so there was no doubt as to how they were being lubricated. I'm putting new seals in so it would be good to know if I should pack the bearings.
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Hi Danny, I tried using the sizes you gave me, didn't matter, he used his calipers and surprise, surprise he could find no matches. This was an industrial bearing supplier. I guess maybe the work ethic is a little stronger where you are or the reference data is. Thanks anyway, it should have worked.
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I ordered a set of KA11360-Z bearings from Discount Auto Parts.com. They wanted $75.00 each which was competitive or better.
Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.
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I did some measuring and cross referencing and have come to the conclusion that I have to use KA11360-Z bearing sets, nothing else will fit, it is the Chev bearing also known as 127861 and 149523.
The car has 6 stud wheels, same as Chevrolet (in Canada anyway) There were some strange things happen with parts swaps.
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I'm having some fun tracking down differential bearings for my '39. The outer race of the bearings installed on my carrier had the number 11360-Z, which Collector's Auto Supply had listed as the outer race for a 38-38 Olds or a '37 to mid 50's Chev passenger car. They had the bearing for '38- '39 Buick S40 & 60 as KA11445 which seems to interchange as a KC11445.
My car was built in Oshawa and sometimes when you open them up there's a surprise in store. That said, all the other numbers seem to check out.
I think that the KA11445 may be slightly larger, The outer races of the presently installed bearings were slightly scored, which would seem to indicate that they had been turning.
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Thanks, I'll give that a try and thank you for the sizes, that should help
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Apparently, the GM PN's are 1308321 & 1308322. I've tried to reference those numbers and come up empty. Has anyone replaced those seals, if so, what seals were used?
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Can anyone give me the part numbers for the propeller shaft seals for a '39 series 40. I have the group # which is 5.469 but I don't yet have a copy of the 1928-1941 chassis parts list. Any assistance in this regard would be greatly appreciated.
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Thanks, I'll pursue it further, you've been a great help
'39 Heat Risers
in Buick - Pre War
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Thanks, 10 gauge is pretty stiff to handle, good for you, I think I would have chickened out with 16. Did you notice any difference in performance or heating?