GeneralMotors

Apologies forgot the year - edited the title , 1938 Lincoln Model K

This is for my 1938 Lincoln Model K Both front brake backing plate are missing the small parts required for the brakes to operate..see the photo this is what I got when I bought the car. The cable is moving but nothing is attached to it. I do have the brake shoes as spare parts, which is the single piece full circle type like on my Auburn...not sure if this is even the correct shoe for this application, and brake drum but that's all I have..no cam or the centering pins etc.. to get a complete working front brake. Rear are ok and the car does stop on the rear alone to some degree. Any suggestions ? do the missing parts interchange with other Ford models ? Thanks Rob

Lynn, Matt, thanks a lot for the replies. I read the detailed thread as well, will dig into the hub in the coming days. Rob

Has anyone removed the rear hub to grease the bearings ? My 1938 has the floating rear axle so I assume the bearings are not oiled by the differential oil and need greasing. Is this a simple hub puller job ? do I also need to open the wheel axle hub with special tools ? Thanks attached is an image from my Chilton book, could not find info on removal though. Rob

Thanks - aren't these K9XXX numbers also stamped on top of the frame rails, diver side at the front for these cars ? Rob

Hello Does anyone know where exactly is the frame serial number stamped, on a 1938 Model K v12. Thanks Rob

I'd say it is fuel related, today's fuel are different compared to the fuel quality that the car was designed for back then, which was heavier.Now they also add butane to make fuel cheaper I would think that it is percolation, where the gasoline boils in the carb and floods the engine. Does it smell like gasoline when you open the hood ? Also, try pulling the choke if you have one, if it gets worse then it is percolation for sure.

Hi - I am desperately looking for a 1935-36 Olds differential Ring Gear and pinion set. Or the whole differential of course Thanks Rob

Found my old thread and thought about updating this for general education purposes of everyone looking into this I had discussions with the techs at Optima back then and was told that it will never be possible to properly charge and balance two 6 volts betteries with one 12v alternator. So I have been running a 12v alternator with a 12v yellow optima and a 6 volts alternator with a 6 volts optima, placed flat on top of the 12v one. The ground is shared but the positive is sourced differently in teh system. This setup has been working flawlessly since 2007 to power my 6 volt car (negative ground) and the 12 volts fan & accessories.

I use a High Power Impact wrench (Truck usage, not cars) on my 1946 @ 47 Cadillacs rear drums, never had any problems to remove it on the first try. The puller I use is a German-made Kukko puller, truck wheel type with 5 legs on a rotating axle which is easier on the studs than the cast type. The impact wrench was $400 and the puller $200. A car-type impact wrench will not be sufficient. See the photo: http://bigcadillac.com/jan07/puller2.jpg GM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You can run a split system with 2 6 volt batteries wired in series for the 12 volts and pull off individual battery for 6 volt stuff. </div></div> this won't work, batteries will un-blance and go flat quickly. the solution i have installed in my 1947 cadillac is to mount a second alternator for the 12volts and add a 12v battery wiht the + and - connected to the alternator. ground is on the 6 v for the car. I use a 12v optima and a 6 volts optima on top of it. i also use 3 12v electric cooling fans. Anything with a 6 motor could be damaged on 12v and a 12->6 voltage drop converter does not exist due to the high and unknow amperage draw of those motors, unlike small gauges. Maybe you could just change the motors to 12v motors ? GM

advertising-ML-440508-ML- Moved to Commercial Advertisements...Peter J.

thanks for all the answers ! I do use the nylon cages on my other 1948 buick and did not have any issues so far. Those seem to have a more precise, tighter fit than the old NOS type. The balls holded by the nylon cages seem to be kept at a better even distance from each other compared to the stamped cage design. However, as posted above It looks like overtightening it might cause more friction, and heat due to the additional friction might expand the whole assembly and cause more heat and eventually meltdown. So the conclusion would be that a bit looser is better than a bit tighter when it comes to choosing the right hole adjustement. Rob 46@bigcadillac.com

Hi All, I just changed the inner and outer bearings and races on my 1947 cadillac front wheels, it now has the federal mogul,black molded bearing ball holder. Very tight tolerances and nice fit. Before there was the old "new departure" stamped ball holder type. The question is how much should I now tighten the nut holding the wheel. If I tighten it to the maximum, I cannot slide the cotter pin. To be able to slide the cotter pin I have to back-up the nut a bit but then the nut becomes quite loose such as it can be easily turned by hand. Not sure what the right balance of torque is best here...any opinions on this ? Thank you. Rob 46@bigcadillac.com

i got that one : its a SPAL fan http://www.macsradiator.com/browseproducts/6-Volt-Electric-fan.html