JohnMackay
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Posts posted by JohnMackay
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Thank you Tom, much appreciated.
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Apologies for the multiple posts...tech issues at this end.
John
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Can anyone supply me with the measurements for the floor pans on my Lincoln. Mine are really badly rusted. I had ordered a set from Bradley Floor Pans but after 2 years I’ve had no response to my emails or phone calls so need to move on. Any help will be much appreciated.
John
Dorset, UK.
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Can anyone supply me with the measurements for the floor pans on my Lincoln. Mine are really badly rusted. I had ordered a set from Bradley Floor Pans but after 2 years I’ve had no response to my emails or phone calls so need to move on. Any help will be much appreciated.
John
Dorset, UK.
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Can anyone supply me with the measurements for the floor pans on my Lincoln. Mine are really badly rusted. I had ordered a set from Bradley Floor Pans but after 2 years I’ve had no response to my emails or phone calls so need to move on. Any help will be much appreciated.
John
Dorset, UK.
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Look carefully before you start to grind. The bolts may be screwed into cage nuts. If you grind off the heads, you will have to replace the cage nuts. I would try soaking the bolts in a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid for a few weeks and then try loosening the bolts. Give the bolts a hit with a big hammer every couple of days to help the solution work. When trying to loosen them, tighten a little and then try to loosen. Patience is the key to safely disassembling a car.
Is this mixture more effective than WD40?
Thanks
John UK
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Thanks for the feedback. Using a cutting disc. Bolts are coach bolts (at least that's what they're called in the UK), dome top, squared above threads to locate and hold. Unfortunately whole bolt/nut rotating. Easy to source over here hopefully.
John UK
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Judging from the pictures those aren't that bad. I've repaired a whole lot worse. They unbolt so it makes the repair job much easier.
It's looking as that may be the only solution. Need to grind the bolts off as they are rusted solid.
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John...UPDATE. Google comes up with Raymond P Keuhn Door Sills. New address is 302 Legion Place in N. Haledon, New Jersey 07508 1420. Phone is now 973 904 0270. Good luck. John
Spoke with Don Keuhn, nice chap. He only works in aluminium so can't help. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.
John UK
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The parts required, both sides..
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Hi Flatcat, yes those are the items. Tried to post a photo but no luck so far.
John UK
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Thanks John, I'll make contact with them...fingers crossed!
John UK
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Hi
I need to replace the inner sill (below running boards) on both sides on my '39 4 door Zephyr. Does anyone have any idea where I might find a pair? Very long shot I know.
Sorry but couldn't get photo to upload.
Many thanks
John UK
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Grab the moulding at the top and apply downward pressure and at the same time pull outward. There aren't any screws holding it just those spring clips.
...Thank you flatcar, that did the trick!
Kindest Regards
John UK
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Look in the door frame for screws. Watch when replacing them that they are not to long and will damage the trim molding.
Hi Waldren
Thanks for the reply.
I've removed all the small trim screws and it allows the cloth trim to ease away from the door frame. Unfortunately the trim can't be completely removed until I remove the metal trim surround shown in the photo. This metal trim surround appears to be retained by a flat spring mechanism...I've tried pushing in the metal spring but as it's reluctant to move much I don't want to apply too much pressure. Hopefully the photo illustrates what I mean.
Kindest Regards
John UK
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Hi
I need to strip my doors in order to deal with rust on the bottoms. I'm not too sure how to remove the window trims...they appear to be held in place by some spring clip mechanism. Is there a technique to ease the removal?
Many thanks for any feedback.
John UK
1939 LZ Sedan
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Thanks John.
John
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Hi All,
How do I contact Keith, I need some replacement knobs for my '39.
Thanks
John
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Thanks flatcat.
John
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Mine is a 1938 but I understand that 38 & 39 were almost identical as far as the running gear goes. Here is a pic of my front brake drum.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]288095[/ATTACH]
One of them is wrong, is it mine or his?
Getting interesting...here's the inside of my front drum along with numbers...PFC 27670 21939...
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You should not need a puller for the front drums. Make sure that the brake shoe adjustment is backed off, the nut removes as shown in your photo and pull the drum off. The outer bearing is behind the washer shown in your photo and it will slide out as the drum is pulled off. Be careful to not let the bearing drop on the floor. The inner bearing and the grease seal will come off with the drum. The grease seal will have to be removed to clean and pack the inner bearing.
Thanks Tom, I'll give it a try.
John
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Hello again,
I've managed to remove my rear brake drums with an old Ford puller as suggested by this forum. The front hub is a very different shape so the puller won't fit...any suggestions?
Many thanks
John UK
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John, I was looking at your pics a little closer and it struck me... They don't look to be the wide 5 drums. I'm unsure what was shipped over the pond but I think someone may have changed your drums out for a latter Ford pattern. What kind of wheels are you running. Got a pic of them?
Hi Beltfed
Sorry for delay in getting back to you...here's the photo of my '39 front wheel.
John
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This is the rear drum from my 1939 Zephyr Sedan, it's a UK model, right hand drive so I don't know if they were different.
John
‘39 Zephyr 4dr Sedan Floor Pans..
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Thanks Tom.