Rooster
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Posts posted by Rooster
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Thanks for the help Ben. I contacted the dealer today and they have both Baldwin filters in stock.
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I'll take the filter out and have it with me ( and the interchange numbers) when I go to the supplier. See if they can match it up with anything they have in stock.
Thanks again.
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Thanks fellas , much appreciated.
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Thanks Bill What brand is the P-127 please. We have a Baldwin dealer locally.
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Can somebody please give me a part number for the 1946 Series 40 engine oil filter.
AC, FRAM or WIX would be good thanks , then I can work out interchanges for availability here.
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Carbon Dioxide ( CO 2 ) would be most effective
Pros --- will knock almost anything out , no mess
Cons --- expensive, don't last very long on discharge, dissipates oxygen so not to be used in confined spaces ( with you in there )
Dry chemical / powder
Pros --- will knock almost anything out, cheap to buy
Cons --- very very messy, corrosive towards sensitive electrical components
Halon
Pros --- very effective, no mess
Cons --- environmentally unfriendly ( very ) , banned in most countries , very expensive if you can get hold of one but most likely won't be able to get it refilled.
Water
Pros --- cheap, very effective on Class A fires ( carbon based, wood, paper, fabrics etc. )
Cons ---- Class A fires only. Not to be used on oil, electrical, metal, or burning fat fires ( eg. your burning chip fryer )
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A growler Bernie refers to looks like this ------
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Who owns it ?
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If that car was in Australia from new it would most likely be a Fisher body and come RHD from the factory. Most Buicks here up to about 1952/ 53 were imported RHD chassis and running gear from the US / Canadian factories. The local body builder Holden would have made most of the sheet metal for the body here. They would have been just about all Special models. Super and Roadmaster cars were imported, there may have been some local content in them. After the early 1950s Buicks were privately imported and underwent the LHD > RHD conversion locally ---- and Chapel Engineering was one of them, a well known company. A very good conversion by them I believe.
A lot of cars were " backyard " converted and not very good. Because now we have relaxed rules in regard to LHD vehicles on our roads, most " new " Buicks imported into our country ( pre 1980s ) are kept LHD. The cost of conversion and engineering, red tape etc. is cost prohibitive.
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When the bearings / bushings wear the unit is said to be " poleing " That is, the armature starts to rub against the stator winding core and can make a grunting noise and potentially jam up.
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Matt , seems he has these already. So I'll pass and give someone else the opportunity.
Thanks.
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I'm interested for my son's 62 Wildcat. Will send you a PM.
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Eric, as far as I know the 1960 Electra is still ( mostly ) all original ( it's a local club car, but not mine ) There have been some minor paint touch-ups here and there.
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Good job Elpad. Thanks.
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I don't know what I've done here ?? Can't get it to open, maybe it's too big.
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I agree with the sealed bearing conversion. I have one in my 1929 and have never had trouble nor expect any in my lifetime of use. Like v12lincoln says, once installed it looks just like original part.
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Thought it was time the old girl got out for a shakedown. It was a glorious sunny Autumn day here and the car drove beautifully as usual with the top down.
Picture shows my 1929 tourer and son's 1962 Wildcat parked up at the coffee stop car park.
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Have a look at V8Buick.com
They come up for sale at times. There was a red console from a 1963 for sale last week for $200 ( no shifter )
I don't know if it sold. He said he was going to list it on Ebay as well.
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I wonder if the " I'll buy it Monday " man actually did ?
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This is me and our daughter on her wedding day a few years ago making an entrance to the ceremony in grand style aboard the 1929.
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Joe in New York is correct with his explanation of trying to re-chrome port holes / ventiports. I had all eight of my 1954 portholes chrome stripped then spent many, many hours removing pits and polishing the insides ready for chrome plating. After plating they turned out a bit disappointing. They had what the shop described as "blow' effect whereby the chromeic acid would not adhere to all the surface and it has a blend of chrome / nickel, because of the internal shape and trying to get an all round electrical contact. You have to look hard but it's there. I don't know how the factory suppliers did it ??
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Yummy, Yummy,Yummy.
Matt, down here we would joke --- sell the wife ( tongue in cheek of course )
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I bought most of my rebuild parts from Falcon Global and Russ Martin ( and some from TA Performance ) I got good deals on Ebay international shipping with FG that's why most of the parts come from them.
The only thing I'm wary of is the crankshaft main bearings I got from FG. They are Rebuilders Choice brand made in Asia.
Any one have any experience with this brand ?
Nailhead rear main seal -- Help.
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I bought a complete BEST gasket kit for my engine re-build. It included the new type neoprene rubber 2 piece seal. But there are no detailed instructions on how to install it.
I'm thinking there must be a correct method. Has anybody done this with success and can post procedure here please ?
I have contacted BEST to ask for help but as yet they have not replied.