Rooster
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Posts posted by Rooster
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It is driving me crazy Roger. If I end up taking the carb off will check that sleeve for sure.
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I'm helping my widow friend with her 1929 Roadster 121. I try and keep on top of things by taking it for a drive now and again. It sat for some time and I could not get it to start. Drained old fuel and put fresh stuff in, still nothing. No fuel getting through so I changed out the pump and inline filter. Managed to get it to fire and run on full choke but when push the choke in it stops. I'm now down to thinking there is a blockage in the carb. I don't know anything about the original because my 1929 Standard is converted to a down draught and has run flawlessly for 30 + years. I don't want to upset the settings on the original carb so reluctant to pull it off but will if I have to. Just asking here is there anything else I should look at before doing so.
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Yes, the earlier ring gear ( crown wheel ) is riveted on and the 55 is bolted. The 55 pinion also requires different bearings to the earlier --- and they are very hard to find. The carrier bearings are the same. My 1934 street rod has a T700r4 fitted and runs a Commodore Borg Warner diff with 3.08 gears. A little too high gear ratio but OK. I have a spare B.W. 3.9 to maybe fit one day. A 3.5 would be ideal but very hard to find used --- new expensive. Plus I can't be bothered taking it all out right now. Your car heavier than mine so 3.9 is probably ideal.
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Get on to Facebook --- Buick Cars and parts Australia. You might have some success there. Some later models had a 3.4:1 ratio which to consider also, especially if you drive highway speeds. There are some differences with the 1955 gears to the earlier ones.
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Yes, sender was replaced but ended up being the gauge itself. Real disappointing seeing it's all in a matched set. I have had the gauge at an instrument repairer here and his report is that it can't be fixed as is. Needs a donor gauge of sorts for the mechanism to be changed out. Even if I can get a black face same style might work he said, but labour costs make it expensive.
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Long shot --- I'm after one of these Dolphin electric oil pressure gauges to match the others in the cluster. Mine has not worked since install. Supplier does not stock any longer this style dial with gray face ( off white / beige )
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In my part of the world the 1939 series 80 could/would be considered restorable. A few dents/crease and some rust do not scare people.
Yep, you're dead right. 20 years ago , when I was a younger man ,I would have had a crack at that 49 Roadmaster.
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A very knowledgeable man with regards to Buicks and other matters of life. I will miss his wisdom. RIP Stu.
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Looks very much like a Pierce Arrow with those headlights
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Good job Grant. Car has finally found a new home even if it is going interstate. Didn’t know the seller was unwell , but I haven’t been active in the club here for a while.
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Check out Bob's Automobilia they may have some of that.
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That's a 1930
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Agree with jps, if you drive a car of that era at 65 mph, then need to emergency stop it from 65 mph with original brakes -- good luck with that.
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That's great information - thankyou. Saved it to computer for future reference.
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Thanks Glenn. Yes, Chevrolet glass would be much easier to find here locally ( hence my enquiry ) 🙂
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Asking if the 1962 Invicta / Wildcat 2 door hardtop front windshield will interchange with any other GM models please.
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If that car gets the low estimate it's a bargain in these crazy times of car values. I still remember doing some bodywork on it.
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We need Mr. Earl's opinion.
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I would like to know this as well if someone could help please.
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It's got the distributor at the front. Nailhead is at the rear.
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Bargain at that price. Go through the mechanicals, fix anything, drive and enjoy.
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Would anybody know what the standard rim width is on the 1962 Wildcat / Invicta ?
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When I need to remove the timing gear on my 1929 I find it easier to pull the complete camshaft and gear out. It does mean taking off rocker shaft and pushrods / cam followers. Then it's easy to press the gear off and press new one on. It takes "maybe" a bit longer and might have to cut a new gasket. But I don't know if the 1934 engine has a similar setup.
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I'm looking through my Buick books and don't see any mention of a "273" model ?
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1929 Master engine won't run
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Looks like I'll have to pull it off next time I am around her place. There is fuel getting to the bowl, I know that because the float was stuck and fuel went everywhere. I warmed engine best I could but still won't run without full choke. Didn't like to run it too long with all that fuel washing the piston wall. It's frustrating because the engine has always run like a swiss clock. Thanks everybody.