crazycars
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Posts posted by crazycars
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After many successful split rim (1920s) tire mountings in the past, I somehow managed to attack this one with a little too much vigor and distorted it to the point where it won't fit on the wheel anymore. Have any of you heard of someone that is able to straighten an antique split rim?
Yes, pretty discouraging! Also, if anyone knows of a Whippet split rim for sale, I'd sure appreciate hearing about it. Thank you!
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Need a rim for my 27 Whippet with 19" tires. I am embarrassed to admit that, after all these years and many successful tire mountings, I bent one rim with my three legged tire tool!
Please let me know if you have an extra you could sell me. Thanks!
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Never have had much success with the hydraulic brakes on my 26 Chrysler model 50 despite having the mc and wheel cylinders sleeved and new lines installed. I pressurized the brake fluid reservoir using a schrader valve and an in-line shut off valve (once pressurized). This works for a while but goes down pretty quickly. I have tried pressure bleeding the system but never get pedal.
Just wondering if anyone else had these issues with early Chrysler hydraulic brakes. Advice greatly appreciated.
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42 minutes ago, 5219 said:
As far as second chance offers on Ebay, they are what my father would have called a sucker bet. If you are bidding against somebody and give your maximum bid, and that person turns out to be a flake who never intended to buy, why would you be willing to tender your maximum bid once that person walks away? At best, you were bidding against fictional offers. At worst, you were bidding against a shill bidder. Only a fool would want to honor his top bid in that situation.
The only fair solution is for the seller to put the item up again and bar the defaulting bidder from bidding.
Truth is, I did put them up again, same result. You then have to wait three weeks for your eBay refund. The whole think stinks.
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EBay has been plagued lately with jerks that get their kicks placing winning bids on cars then disappearing. This has been my experience when I tried selling my last three antique cars. Every single one was bid up by a fake bidder! Then, the problem is the "2nd chance offer" for runner up bidders. Never successful as they seem to think something is wrong with the car, or thought it over and decided not to spend the money. In addition, the fees are higher than ever. Most of the cars you see listed are from multiple listing dealers not from guys like us.
These two issues are serious yet eBay doesn't address them and is, I'm sure losing business. They deserve it!
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7 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
I sounds as if Bob was referring to his state of Pennsylvania,
where the state's inheritance tax ("death tax") does not have,
I understand, any amount excluded. The rate depends on the
relationship of the heir to the deceased person and ranges from
0% up to 15%.
But where does the original poster live? We can't be specific to
his case unless he wants to give that information.
I am in Rhode Island. Thank you for taking the time to write.
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20 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:
As someone who deals with this situation frequently, my first piece of advice is to start whittling down your collection now, before it becomes someone else's problem to solve. If there are cars you don't use often or don't love as much as others, maybe think about selling those now, while you can. Focus on the ones you like best, hard as it may be to do.
The problem with leaving it until you're gone is that there's all kinds of bureaucratic red tape and emotional baggage tied up and your next-of-kin aren't exactly going to be thinking clearly. They don't know as much about the cars as you do and they only have your valuation to go by when negotiating with any buyer/broker, and that may or may not be accurate. The bottom line is that they really won't want the stress. If the widows who I work with could, they would just push their late husbands' cars into a dumpster and be done with them--they're hurting too much to be rational and just want them out of their lives. The only reason they care is because their husbands cared and they feel like they're betraying his memory if they don't try to eke out every penny and work really hard to find them all good homes. Appraisals are often worthless, simply because they create a line in the sand that has to be honored regardless of whether it's accurate. It's a very tough situation for your loved ones.
It's not fair to your spouse/kids to force them to deal with your entire collection after you're gone. YOU are the expert. YOU know the cars. YOU know their values best. A broker won't magically make this not a problem for your family; from titles to bank accounts to wills to probate court to the pile of paperwork involved with each transaction in an estate, it's going to be a royal pain in the butt for whomever lands the job. And they'll be miserable the entire time because they miss you so much and don't want to let you down.
Start managing your collection now, while you can and while you have your faculties intact. Anything can happen, and dealing with 3-4 cars will be far, far easier for them (and you) to manage. Don't pass off the problem to your family after you're gone--take an active role in solving the problem now, while you can. Your family will thank you for it.
Sounds like good advice. Thank you
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20 hours ago, Walt G said:
Give us an idea of location - east (North east, south east) west ( north west south west) mid west ( again north or south) that can determine someone of good reputation who can travel to see the cars. Or are you in Europe, Australia, ?? You do not have to be specific but we need a clue as usual to try and help.
Location Rhode Island
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I am located in Rhode Island.
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Not quite sure what to do. My situation: I am 75 years old, in relatively good health, but I realize that I am a whole lot closer to the end than the beginning! I own 17 cars, mostly from the 1920's, no trophy winners but presentable and in good mechanical condition. I do not wish to burden my wife with my "legacy" and am hoping you guys might have some suggestions as to a broker or an agency who could handle this for her after my demise. Not trying to sound morbid, more like practical. All suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Needed a replacement radiator for my 30 Roadster but didn't have an extra $1000+ for a Brass Works one. I took a chance and bought a five row aluminum Model A radiator on eBay for $349 free shipping. My findings: very light, cheap looking and required an unbelievable amount of fitting (read PATIENCE), BUT, once properly installed it worked like a champ! Clean, free flowing, problem solved.
* radiator neck was the threaded style not the twist 1930 -31 style. Not really a problem as I had a 29 cap.
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Thank you, Greg. Try as I did, I could not get the studs to come out (double nut). I just gave up and unbolted the front fenders, yanked the nose forward and completed the job. I never want to do this job again!!! A ridiculous amount of work.
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I'm attempting to replace a leaking water pump on 1937 CHrysler Imperial 6 cyl but am absolutely stuck trying to figure out how to remove the radiator. I have unbolted the radiator from the frame and can move it fore and aft a bit but not enough to allow water pump removal. I can't imagine having to unbolt the front fenders to allow the nose assembly to move forward but don't see any other way. Seems like an awful lot of work for what would ordinarily be a simple repair. Please advise if you can. THANK YOU.
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Do any of you gents know if a 1946 Dodge Fluid Drive differs from a 1951? My original 51 from my D24 has a broken off ear flange so I am attempting to use one I had stored from a 46. Catching reverse seems to be a real problem. I have adjusted the shifter rod in and out a dozen times. I just get forward gears. I'm considering that the two different transmissions operated differently despite looking identical.
Also, thinking about taking a risk and using the original 51 trans with only the three , not four, bolts to the bell housing.
I would really any and all ideas. Thank you!
Gary
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1916 DB Complete Motor, Clutch, Transmission Assembly. $700. Stored many years ago, had been a runner, turns freely, includes Eismann magneto (not shown). Includes starter/gen, carb, water pump, clutch, p plate etc. all ready to go. I can strap to a pallet for Fastenall or your pickup. Matching motor and transmission numbers: 18900
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looking to purchase Fluid Drive Transmission for my 51 Dodge. The case of mine has a broken off front flange at the bolt hole making it unusable.
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Would someone please explain the differences between the model 80 and model 90 1931 Buick?
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Anyone know if it would be possible to eliminate the entire heat riser assembly on a 1931 Buick and just bolt an updraft carb to the intake manifold with some kind of adapter? Old cast heat riser parts usually are broken or severly cracked. Finding a good one is nearly impossible.
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1939 BUICK SHOCK ABSORBERS, FULL SET, very good used condition.complete set (4 front and rear)of Delco lever arm shock absorbers from 1939 Buick. Very smooth up and down action with no glitches or skips, no stuck spots. Feels like right amount of resistance. Proper action. Front shock number: 1948A, 125 FX. Rear shock number: 2103E. Save $$ , rebuilt shocks cost $500 each! Bolt these up and enjoy the ride.front pair $200, rear pair $150. Full set, front and rear for $300.I can ship these by USPS flat rate (big savings). One set per box.
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complete set (4 front and rear)of Delco lever arm shock absorbers from 1939 Buick. Very smooth up and down action with no glitches or skips, no stuck spots. Feels like right amount of resistance. Proper action. Good condition. Front shock number: 1948A, 125 FX. Rear shock number: 2103E
$150 for front set
$100 for rear set.
all four for $200
all plus shipping.
Rebuilt units sell for $500 each! Save big $ with this set.
Front set weighs 47 pounds, rear set weighs 40 pounds. Shipping will be expensive. NOTE: I do not make money on shipping. I only charge the exact amount. Fastenal shipping can be much less expensive for shipping.
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yes, rears have an "A" and a "B"
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there is a Fastenal about 30 minutes from me. I'm located in Little Compton, RI. The Fastenal depot is in New Bedford, MA
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located in Little Compton, RI 02837
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complete set (4 front and rear)of Delco lever arm shock absorbers from 1939 Buick. Very smooth up and down action with no glitches or skips, no stuck spots. Feels like right amount of resistance. Proper action. Good condition. Front shock number: 1948A, 125 FX. Rear shock number: 2103E
$150 for front set
$100 for rear set.
all four for $200
all plus shipping.
Front set weighs 47 pounds, rear set weighs 40 pounds. Shipping will be expensive. NOTE: I do not make money on shipping. I only charge the exact amount.
gdenn@aol.com
1940 Buick 6V, straight 8 Struggling to start
in Technical
Posted
when all else failed (dead battery) I added a on-off battery switch and mounted on the floor. Now starts every time. I won't win any awards for trouble shooting but I just wanted a quick fix,