Leif W/Old Chrylser

Are you interested in selling the spare engine and trans separately? If so what do you know about it? (year...condition…. etc)

Where are you (and it) located? Leif in California

I am working on a very rough 1925 model 70. I'd like to get rid of the artillery wheels, which are in bad shape and I have found a local place (Stockton Wheel) that will make me some disk wheels that would use the origional tires and could have any bolt pattern. The question is; would later hubs for bolt on wheels fit (or be easily made to fit) my spindels? I want to keep as much of the old stuff (including those crazy brakes!) Thanks Leif

Do the drums have the hub on them? My car has the external type brakes so I think it might require changing everything. What is the bolt circle on the 7 lug wheels? Thanks for the info Vince. Leif

I have a rough and incomplete '25 Model 70 Chrysler that I am building as a period correct speedster. I want to change the wood artillery wheels to either disk or wire. Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? I'd like to continue to use the 20 inch tires. Leif

I have a rough and incomplete '25 Model 70 that I am building as a period correct speedster. I want to change the wood artillery wheels to either disk or wire. Any ideas on the easiest way to do this? I'd like to continue to use the 20 inch tires.

Interesting! I don't know about priceless pumps, could be, I just have no knowledge. I'd love to have your engine but freight to California would be prohibitive. If you post it on the WPC buy/sell forum and the Airflow club forum, someone in the mid west will love to buy it from you. Maybe there is an internet discussion group for pump & equipment collectors too! good luck.

These industrial engines don't have as much of a "market" as the cars but they are all worth something; mostly depends on condition and who needs one and where it's located (freight can be really high). Where is this and what kind of shape is it in? I know the engines (mostly 6 cyl) used in AG machinery often goes for almost "scrap' price. 8 cyl is rarer but also fewer people want one.

Some body out there must know the answer: How well do the early type "external' brakes work? My 24 model 70 didn't come witha master cyl so i'm considering getting one with a booster. I used to have a Ford model A (Yes, I know they can't be compaired) and the pedal effort was so high every stop in traffic caused heart pounding panic. Would a little assistance help on the Chrysler?

My 24 model 70 didn't come with a master cylinder. Since I have to come up with one anyway, it had crossed my mind to get a "hotrod" one with a vacuum booster. How is the pedal pressure on the stock system? I want to avoid the model A Ford situation where you need all your adrenaline (which the system causes you to produce) to get stopped. I know the Chrysler is a much more advanced system but there must be some reason why brakes went inside the drum a few years later...

My 24 model 70 has wood "artillery" type wheels. I'd like to convert to wires or possibly the disc type. I see that the wood ones have 8 bolts that hold them to the drum. What is involved in converting to something else? I have a lead on some 1928 wires..anybody know what size they would be? I have a 27 owners manual that says the tires are 30 inch. is that correct? That would be a big change from my 24's that are 20 inch.

I'm starting on my '24 model 70 project. I'm wondering what the radiator is made out of; it doesn't look like brass, more like zink of tin or something silver in color. There will be some repairs necessary.... thanks!

I have a 1924 2 door sedan body that I need to sell. The top is missing and the piece with the back window blew off the trailer and was run over on an L A free way (I wasn't driving thank God). It would probably make a neat "tub" touring style hot rod. It's probably going to be a few months before I can get it off the frame but let me know if anyone is interested. I'm not looking for a lot of money, just need to see it go. Also front and rear bumpers & 4 20" artillery type wood wheels. Located about 20 miles north of San Francisco. Here's my e-mail: lortegren@bendheim.com

I have a 1924 2 door sedan body that I need to sell. The top is missing and the piece with the back window blew off the trailer and was run over on an L A free way (I wasn't driving thank God). It would probably make a neat "tub" touring style hot rod. It's probably going to be a few months before I can get it off the frame but let me know if anyone is interested. Also front and rear bumpers & 4 20" artillery type wood wheels. Located about 20 miles north of San Francisco.

I'm not sure what you are looking for or where you are located, but I have a freind who restores these things in San Jose California. Give him a call if you like: John Allen 408 298 2394

Actually it's the "crack, chip, peel, dull out" that attracted me to the idea.

Unfortunately Martin Swig sold his Chrysler dealership in San Francisco some years ago and the wonderful book store in the building called "Automobilia" closed. Today he can be reached through his organization The California Mille: http://www.californiamille.com/ I'm planing visit his garage soon (I've called a few times but our schedules didn't line up) after I do, I'll see if I can figure out how to post pictures here. He ran three pre-war Chryslers at Monterey this year.

I was reading an old restoration book (circa 1950) and they were talking about "coach paint": basically auto paint made to be applied with a brush as it was in the 20's. Is there still a source for this type of paint? I was thinking there might be some "instant patina" in this method.

I'm guessing some one from NJ will remember them but most public librarys have old phone books and newspapers. If you are in the local area it might be interesting to check. I have also had some luck by calling the current dealer and asking to speak to the oldest person in the building.

Hello Sherwood I thought perhaps it wasn't "0 6" as they were pretty hard to read. So would the actual serial number be CG 1951? Yes I did buy this from Dale Johnson. Were you familiar with it? I haven't really waded into it yet but I can see i'm going to need some brake parts; any ideas? Are you on the West Coast also? Thanks for your help.

Near the steering box, my frame is stamped 0 6 1951. how are these number related to the Fedco numbers? The frame is obviously a 31 Imperial frame (long wheelbase, huge (17"?)brakes and no "X" crossmember (like a 1932 would have) Is there a way to figure out the actual serial number? at some point I hope to register this beast and I'm sure the state will want something. Thanks

I haven't taken it all apart yet but guessing from the backing plates, I'd say 16 inch. These old Imperials must have used lots of parts from the heavy truck department. The differential looks like it came from an Army duce and a half.

I have a model 72 owners manuel, I can copy relevant pages or I would be interested in trading for any 31- 33 literature. I'd love to see pictures of Mr. McKay's project; I have a similar plan for my 31. I live near Martin Swig who has a 31 LeMans replica which he uses in vintage events. I assume you had someone in England produce wheels, I'd also like to know about that (too bad the dollar is so weak. I talked to Dayton Wire Wheels about it but the local dealer was not cooperative and they don't sell direct.

Hi Charlie I'm (possibly) interested in the radiator (which would also nail down the year if we could see a picture). I sent you an e-mail but it may have bounced back. My e-mail is lortegren@bendheim.com Thanks Leif Oakland Calif.

Hi Folks I'm just beginining a monumental project: I bought a 31 imperial chassis that had been used as a hey wagon. The idea is to build a speedster. It has drums but I find I'm missing all other parts (shoes and Cylinders)on one side. The imperial had drums the size of trash can lids so they are probably unique. Any Ideas? Thanks