Dan O
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Posts posted by Dan O
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Thanks, Qside. I pulled the seat off the frame and found I do have fluid at the cylinder from the steel line. The solenoid clicks and the pump works. With the cylinder rod unbolted and free from resistance, it does not move at all. I extended the cylinder rod out using some leverage and hit it with some penetrating oil, left it over night but still no movement. I had to get a long woodworking clamp to compress the cylinder rod, one mighty squeeze at a time, open the solenoid, squeeze, repeat, and got it back closed. I did tap it a bit with a hammer all over - I was hoping this movement would free it up but it did not.
Happy Ending - I reassembled the cylinder into the scissor/spring assembly and the cylinder rod now moves back and forth like it should.
By the way, my seat track was rusted stuck but loosened up with penetrating oil and that hammer.
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Here are some pictures of a 1949 Roadmaster hydraulic seat mechanism - a bit different. Not sure if that helps but I am going thru mine today to see if I can get the cylinder to move. The assembly bolts to the front of the seat frame with a single bolt that passes thru the two scissor parts and the cylinder end - all marked with red circles here since it apart. The fluid pushes the cylinder rod out and that moves the seat forward. Push the switch the other way, forward, and it opens the valve to let the fluid out and the springs pull it backwards.
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Hey - I sent you some pictures on hook up. I know habve a question. My hydro-electric seat will not move. It's wired up correctly. My top and window operate as they should. I hear the pump activate when I press the seat switch but seat does not move fore nor aft. Any insights? I have pulled the seat cushion but not the frame itself.
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Pete's right but welding an old neck to a new clean tank - I don't see a problem with that myself.
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I bought a tank from one of the regular Buick suppliers, can't recall which one right now but it came with a filler neck and a heavy rubber boot to connect it to the tank. No way on earth would it fit in my 49 Roadmaster. I complained and was told most people use their old filler neck. Not a great solution but I can see how hard it would be to get it perfect for so many cars. The tank was from tanksinc.com.
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On 4/22/2024 at 8:18 AM, SBRMD said:
Maybe try Cadillac sources? Should be the same. There's a place called Cadillacs of the 1940's, I think in California...
I reached out to The Convertible Top Guys in RI this morning. https://www.convertibletopguys.com/static/contactus
Also https://store.classicbuicks.com/contact-us/
I'll report back
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QSide - Nice Super you have there - this man in New York is the best for correct tops, I have been told by someone that knows restorations: Putt Georgi - http://aro2000.com/221_order_form.htm
I just asked him if he has a pattern - he did not 9 years ago.
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Does anyone have a source for a pattern for one of these? I see the snaps to secure one in place on the back seat area but do not have a pattern to go by.
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A rare item indeed. Is it just a standard headlight switch without the rheostat for the dash lights as would be used in the Specials? Those pop up on eBay a lot.
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Does anyone have an extra pair of these they would sell?
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You should post this in the unusually hard to find Buy and Sell section https://forums.aaca.org/forum/12-buick-buysell/
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This is a peculiar problem of mine but I cannot get my 1949 air cleaner to mount correctly on my 1951 320 engine. I think the mounting hardware that is bolted to the underside of the intake manifold is wrong for the air cleaner or bent (it is not flat). Did the cleaners change a little in '51? The round air cleaner base or oil sump won't sit flat causing a large air gap between the filter and top part of the air cleaner. I looked at my 1949 engine and the mounting plate is on top of the manifold, flat and easy to use.
Anyone have a photo of the mounting hardware they could share of theirs from a '51 or other year that's mounted to the bottom of the manifold? Two photos of what's on my manifold are below, followed by what's on my '49 followed by the air cleaner in place with gap.
I assume my manifold to be a '51 as the engine is per engine serial numbers. It might have been swapped.
Any advice will be appreciated.
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On 3/15/2024 at 12:27 AM, Wayne R said:
I did a couple of pages on this and tops a while back.
forgot how long,---regards.
Nice write-up indeed. However, I read that the '49's do not need to be bled, just move the top up and down, raise and lower the windows several times too, until the motoring stops chattering which means all the air is out of the system. I did use Mercon III and get no chattering after flushing and refillling however, it takes 1.5 minutes to raise the top. Others report 20 seconds. And my reservoir is full now.
I have a rebuilt pump and no leakes and a fully charged 6 volt battery.
Any ideas on what's wrong? Why so slow? I don't know anything about these tops except what I see in the manuals.
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I am changing out the fluid in my 1949 Buick Roadmaster hydraulic system. It has been converted to transmission fluid by the priot owner. What type of transmission fluid is best? I see it mentioned to use instead of brake fluid but no type or grade is ever mentioned leading me to believe I might just round up all my various bottles of tranny fluid and put them to use. That sounds too easy though so I thought I'd ask the sage members of this board for advice.
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On 1/30/2024 at 10:51 PM, s_hilmoe said:
I have one mounted on my '49. Here are a couple of older pics.
(Bump) Very nice looking in my opinion. Did you get a template with your mirror to drill the single hole correctly? It is at more of an upright angle than I imagined. I did buy one - no template so if you have one, please let me know!
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I have a '49 so I may be wrong but the larger piece looks like my gravel shield that fits in front of the radiator and behind the grill. Mine has the same indentations pressed into the sheet metal.
The smaller piece looks like a bumper filler as you stated.
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I have a 1949 Buick Roadmaster with the standard long black filter for the 320 motor. I have never been able to remove or install it without a lot of banging on it with the heel of my hand, scratching it on the carb body where there is minimal to no clearance, smashing the carb tab, struggling to fit the pole in the hole and general fussing and cussing. Does everyone have this problem or can they be adjusted/aligned somehow to go on and off more easily?
I considered bending the mounting plate that bolts to the intake manifold but figured I would just make it worse.
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4 hours ago, NailheadBob said:
Junkyard near my house has a 1949 Buick Super, Thompson's auto wrecking located in Chebanse, IL (next to Kankakee, IL) phone # 815-697-2223 ask for Glen OR Kevin the yard man.
They may have what you need
Bob
Thank you, Bob - I got some help from Bob's Automobilia that helped me get the pump rebuilt - they found the part I sent them with the pump, or a replacement, and are sending it back to me.
The moral of my story - Don't send brass fittings off with your part - they may not come back!
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Pete, you ruined my day! Whaaaaa!
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As with many threads I start, I wind up answering my own question, at least in part.
The vintage Trico jars and pumps are reproduced for the English & Italian vintage car crowd as per the Holden website below. They are sold in the US for vintage Jaguars for $300 on jollyrogers.com.
https://www.holden.co.uk/p/trico_vacuum_operated_washer_bottle_early_type
I bought a nice complete set up on eBay today for $89 plus tax and shipping. I saw some on Etsy as well. The jars go for $69 apiece for Corvettes etc so check those sites. Bob's and Fusicks sell the jars too but only the wide mouth jars as far as I could find.
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This length of this "bar stock" fitting is rare and probably needs to come off an old Buick pump like in my '49.
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6 hours ago, Bloo said:
Bloo - Yes, it's a double flare fitting - the photo is just to give an idea of the shape. I looked for flared fittings at all my local parts houses and online a year ago and flared parts are hard to find these days as folks move to rubber lines.
I will try a hose house I need to go to for another project, per Steve's advice.
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EDITED to show actual fitting needed.
I am in need, fellow Buick enthusiasts - I had my fuel pump rebuilt and cannot find the brass 90 degree bar stock fitting that screws into the pump and connects to the fuel line. It is 1.5" long. I do not have any slack in my metal fuel line so I really want one like I had.
Does anyone have one they could part with? Mine is a 49 Roadmaster. I tried Bob's to no avail.
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Does anyone know of a reproduction washer set up for a 1949 Buick? Or a nice used one? My jar is broken and the rest of it is looking shabby. Sometimes I see a nice one on eBay pop up but only a lot of junky one's on there now.
Can you just source some type of modern jar to use? The mouth seems oddly large compared to grocery store products these days.
Were there different types used in the same year by the factory?
Buick rear shock levers 1941 to 1953, parts number 2105C and D
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Call Mr. Marvin Ribbich - he has a lot of NOS shocks at good prices. I bought a pair of rears for my 1949. 262-392-2989. You can search his name here and perhaps find an email but I believe you will have better luck with the phone call.