Larry Minery

I just bought an old, but excellent shape, pinion puller for torque tube drive shafts. It was just used successfully on a 48' Super. I would like to offer it for use by our local chapter, but would like some information about torques tubes. 1. What years of Buicks used torque tubes?? and 2. Will this pinion puller work on all years?? Larry

This is a follow up on my efforts to have my differential repaired in my 55 76R roadmaster. I needed a replacement ring gear carrier. I have heard that early 55's have the ring gear riveted to the carrier, latter ones are bolted. I obtained a ring gear & carrier fron Msgr. Douglas Cook in our local BCA chapter, it was out of a 54 Century (series 60) and was riveted, but in great condition. Not knowing if thie unit would fit in my Roadmaster (series 70), I took the Roadmaster & the 54 ring & carrier to a top notch differential shop. to make a long story short, the next day, they called and said the Roadmaster & the Century carriers were exactly the same, even had the same casting #'s on them. They removed the Century ring gear, by machining out the rivets and installed my Roadmaster ring gear using my bolts. They needed to reface the ring gear a little because the bolt heads were a bit larger in dia. than the rivets. They needed NO other parts than what I had brought, and the total bill was only $300.00. I am pretty sure that all ring gear carriers are the same for 40,50,60 &70 series cars, at least on 54 & 55 cars, the ring gears could be a different ratio of course. SHE RUNS GREAR!!! Larry Minery

OK Todd, thanks for that info. Larry

Thanks Paul. I'll keep that info in mind. Larry

Thanks Paul: I thought they might be different. So now I need to look for a donor car. Are regulators the same for a convertible as a 2 door hardtip?? Do you know what year's of regulators would be the Same?? Anyone out there that would have a set of regulatore for a 65 Wildcat convertible??? Larry

I want to comvert my crank side windows to power. I have all 4 motors and wiring. Could it be as easy as un-bolting the hand crank and bolting the motor in and hooking up the wiring, or am I dreaming???? Thank you for any suggestions. Larry

Thanks for the info Willie. I am going to keep my eyes & ears open for a while here on the site & see what I can learn. You must be at the National. Do you know Bob & Sandy Buntaine?? If you see them, tell them, Larry says Hello!! Larry

SCROLL DOWN TO HAPPY FACE TO SEE THIS OUTCOME OK The keeper rod that that slides into the ring gear carrier & spider gears is frozen in place. The hole in the ring carrier seems to be a bit oblong. One guy thinks it may have possibly been caused by trailer towing (oblong hole) which the previous owner did do. He also thinks the spider gears have worn groves into the rod, keeping it from sliding out. I know that the ring gears have different ratio's in the Special (40 series) & Century (60 series) from the larger Super (50 series) & Roadmaster (70 series). What I need to know, are the RING GEAR CARRIER'S, the same for all 4 series????????? Also my 55 Roadmaster has the ring gear BOLTED to the ring gear carrier. I have been told that Buicks 1954 & back, had the ring gear RIVETED to the ring gear carrier. Does anyone know if the rivet"s can be drilled out and taped to fit my 1955 ring gear????? I want to keep my ring gear & pinion as a set. Larry

I bought the speaker at a vendor in So. Cal. (Danchuk Manufacturing 1955-1956-1957 Classic Chevy Parts) that only sells 55,56 & 57 Chev. Parts, but some chev. & Buick speakers are the same. A bit pricie, but they are only a few miles from me & I could pick it up. As for OHM's, it is a measurement of electrical resistance. resistance can be measured from almost zero OHN's to millions of ohms. For instance the voice coil of a 4 ohm speaker has very low ohms. Many other electronic parts have from low to very high resistance. All the bulbs in your cars have a resistance, usually lower. I think the last name of the guy that discovered this was Ohm. Larry

I finally found a 6 X 9 4 OHM rear seat speaker for my 55 76R and have it installed. It works great!!! Ah, the sound of low-fi, just like the good old days! Thanks to all for your suggestions. Larry

Hey BRB62 no problem. I should have mentioned that the radio is a tube type in my first message. Thank you for replying back. Do you know a couple in Australia by the name of Ron & Beverly Noonan?? They traveled from Ca. to Flint with us to the 2003 Buick National, great people. Larry

Thank you Jin & JPIndusi: You two are the only one's I have heard from that feel the 4 ohn speaker is correct & you both seem very sure of your selves, so I am going to put the 10 ohm back in the box & shop for a 4 ohm speaker. Thanks again for your input! Larry

NTX5467: Thank you for your thoughts. As of now, I think I will install the 10 ohm in a day or so. By the way, the radio is a stock 1955 tube type radio that has been rebuilt and works well. Larry

BRB62: Thank you for your reply. I an inclined to think either 8 or 10 ohm will work. I will go with the 10 ohm unless I hear anything differently in the mean time. Larry

I want to install a rear speaker in my 55 Roadmaster 76R. I have an NOS 10 ohm speaker (6X9 inch), but always thought car speakers were 8 ohm. Does anyone know for sure what is correct, 8, 10 or what. Thanks

Looks like every thing would be OK, except I need the chrome buckles I may want some of the other parts, will see what happens. Thanks Larry

The Jetstar is an olds I assume? At one time I had a 63 Jetfire. Cant remember what the buckles looked like. Are yours chrome with the lift to release type? Thanks Larry

Thanks for getting me on track with that. Probably cost more than $5.83 for one chrome mounting bolt now! You would think there would be a lot of 65 Buick parts cars out there. Just need to keep looking.. Thanks again Larry

Are you saying the red background was only on the Skylark buckles? I can use the gold, if I can,t find the red. Thanks for your help.

I need four (4) seat belts from 65 Buick Wildcat, La Saber, Electra (are skylarks the same?). Prefer back seat type as they will go into the back seats of my 65 Wildcat and 55 Roadmaster 76R. Could use fronts, but outside ones don't have proper anchors (retractable). Webbing & color are no concern as will have new installed. The buckles have the Fisher "coach" in blue. Some backgrounds I have seen for the "coach" are red and some are gold, don't know why. I would prefer the RED. The buckles are the aircraft lift to release type. parts need to be good to excellent with no rust. Thanks for any help. Larry Minery 714-639-1197

Sorry Rooster about the year of you can, I know it's 54, Jusr a typeo error. Larry

Hi "Rooster" Thank you also for the info. I can use all the tips I get. Love your 55 76R!!! is the bottom color Black??? Thanks Larry

Hi Doug: Thanks for the info!! I will contact you after the 24th. Larry

I just found that my 55 roadmaster has some worn & bad parts in her rear end. The large pin that runs through the ring gear carrier and spider gears has worn an oblong hole in the carrier. the keeper bolt was broken in 3 places, which may have allowed this to happen. The spider gear bushings are also trashed. Does anyone know where I could find either new or GOOD used, or rebuilt parts. what I need, are the ring gear carrier, spider and axel gears. Also I was told that the ring gear is riveted to the carrier, if so, can the rivets be replaced with bolts???? Also are the differentials the same for Roadmaster & Super and the smaller Century & Special?? Thank you for any information you can give me.

About a month ago I ask for suggestions about changing from a Boyne turn signal switch, part #7805675, Gr. #2.895, with cornering lamps to the higher quality Saginaw switch part #7800483, Gr. #2.895. Although, I did get many suggestions, no one said it could or could not be done. After hours of agonizing over this, I am happy to tell you it is quite easy. You need to do one of two things, either find the metal switch housing that has the hole for the hazard switch at the bottom of the cup ( this cup would have had a Saginaw switch from the start ) or you can do what I did and that is to drill a new hole at the bottom of your Boyne switch cup, directly below the hole at the top of the cup. This hole needs to be at the very bottom of the cup, even into the rolled metal edge that starts to form the back side of the cup. I used a steped drill & rat tail file to get the hole right on. I used a small rubber plug to fill the upper hole. You will need to move the mounting screew on the shift lever stop from one hole to another. All the holes needed to change from Boyne to the Saginaw switch are there, except the above mentioned hazard switch hole!!!! The Saginaw switch has a much fimmer feel to it,& all works great again. I would be happy to answer questions. Larry Minery