bferg
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Posts posted by bferg
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Yes but - after the front wheels pass the threshold of the door and as the top of the cab approaches the door, at that point, 6'6" is no longer required. It would be less than 6'6". It seems to me the door would unlikely be a problem. How much EXTRA HEIGHT is required INSIDE the trailer to allow for bounce without adding unnecessary fuel costly height?
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Oh Yes. I was a cool dude in high school back in the 50?s. One afternoon I was in my Dad?s ?57 four-hole Buick cruising down the main drag when the CUTEST little darling in a pair of red short-shorts caught my eye. Being ?slightly? distracted, I rear-ended the car in front of me. When the dust settled I was petrified to see that I had rear-ended the high sheriff of the county. Fortunately, he was up for re-election and he and my Dad ?worked it out?. To make matters worse the cute thing was in junior high ? way beneath my high school years! That lady is now well into her sixties and will weigh in above 235!
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I will be buying an enclosed, bumper pull car hauler within the next few months and have a questions for those who ?have been there, done that?. I will be hauling a pickup the height of which is 6?6? (top of cab). How much extra height do I need, above 6?6?, to allow for a little bounce as I traverse over yet unknown roads? I realize that unnecessary extra trailer height will adversely affect fuel mileage. Also, should I be concerned about rear door opening height? Or will the ?angle of entry? factor keep me in safe territory as far as door opening? The wheel base for the truck is 125?. Thank you for your input.
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Each time I read a thread similar to this I am closer to forgetting the AACA and proceed on to another group and enjoy driving my car. The old guard of this organization really rubs a newcomer the wrong way - time and time again. I understand that there are politics in every organization, but the AACA has taken it to new heights. Since my only exposure to the AACA is through this forum, my only hope is that the members who constantly massage each other on this board do not represent the active membership. I'll find out in May when I attend my first AACA meeting in Waco.
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I will be replacing many bolts and nuts on the frame-off restoration of my 1947 pickup. To meet the AACA judging requirements how should I proceed? I would prefer to use grade 8 or grade 5 bolts for obvious reasons, but what about the bolt markings that these bolts (and other grades) carry. If I grind off the bolt markings, the coating will also be removed which would mean the bolt head would rust before I got the truck to the first show. To my knowledge, due to EPA regulations there are no cadmium plating facilities in the US available for small runs. Additionally, there is the question of the head height of the present day bolts verses the taller bolt heads that were used in years past. I have found availability of a few sizes of high head bolts, but not nearly enough sizes to complete my project. There are no replacement bolt packages available for my vehicle. My question comes down to two points: bolt markings and head height. What are your thoughts? Surely this has come up many times before, but using the Search feature I get no hits.
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The heater hose on my 1947 IHC runs from the firewall to the water pump across the top of the engine and is secured to a support rod that follows a similar route. Rather than use electrical tape to secure the hose to the rod, I would like to use a metal strap or band. Where is this type of strap available? A brass strap would be ideal. I've tried Restoration Supply and Restoration Specialties. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
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When replacing the windshield and door glass on a 1947 vehicle, is the trade mark insignia on the glass of any importance to judges? It appears the original stencil on the glass, which was PPG DUPLATE,is no longer available. Should the replacement glass have the contemporary SAFETY GLASS (etc)etching or would it be better to have no trade mark insignia? Thanks for your input.
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I have received replacement fuel and brake lines for my 1947 IHC. They are correctly steel lines with brass fittings, but how do I protect the "natural" steel appearance without making them look like I used clear fingernail polish? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
Dodge Grill Located - Late 40's
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I recently walked a central Texas salvage yard containing approximately 500 vehicles from the 40’s, 50’s and 60’s. Much to my disappointment most all of the vehicles have long since been cannibalized. However, standing like a beacon in the night was a stainless steel grill on an otherwise wasted Dodge car from the late 1940’s. I know there is someone somewhere that could use this fine looking grill on their Dodge project. The grill appears to be in excellent condition. I saw no dents or damage. I took a few photos that I will forward to anyone that might be interested.
The downside is that my recommendation would be not to permit the owner of the salvage yard to pull the grill. I watched him pull several parts, that he had orders for, from other cars. He has little regard for preserving the condition of the part that he has a sale for. Moreover, I can only imagine his lack of care in packaging and shipping something like this.
Perhaps someone on this forum would be interested in this piece. If so, you would need to pull the grill yourself or arrange for a Texas friend who had the time and knowledge necessary to extract the grill from its carcass. You may email me for contact information or photographs. I have no financial interest in this, but feel that the grill deserves a good home.