Bill Kennedy

I have bought parts off this guy and they were OK, although I bought my brake parts from Max Merritt.

RE: "I'll let you decide if the purchase of a cutter is appropriate. The unit I have is a Blair. I bought it from a discount tool store and it has served through many, many, many cuts with a cheap electric drill"--I'll probably go ahead and get one--I believe in getting the tools to do things right, although I normally shop at Northern Supply or Harbor Freight. The tools there are inexpensive (cheap) but for occassional use are fine. Not anywhere close to the quality of Craftsman, MAC or the other expensive ones, but good enough for restoring 1 car every 3 or 4 years!!! I too do not yet have a welder--it is also next on my list but that will be a brand name--Lincoln propbably. I read a lot about there definately being a difference between the no name the brand name units.

Thanks--I did not see the spot welds probeably because I did not clean the rust and grease off the brackets yet. I really expected the two pieces to just fall apart. Guess I'm in the market for a spot weld cutter!!!

I have just taken the front anti-roll bar off a 1955 400 (Packard calls it the front stabilizer assembly) and I was surprised that the two piece brackets that hold the bar on to the frame did not separate. I need to replace the bushings and I cannot break the brackets apart. Are they spot welded or just "rusted" together. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Robert--I'll take the last one--add me to the list. I agree to pay $89.50 plus shipping--send me your address and I'll send you a deposit. E-mail: wckennedy@aol.com

Part number is 600W--under Motel A parts (pasted from their website): 600W EACH 5.00 OIL FOR REAR END TAKES 1-1/2 OR 2 QUARTS 2 1909-1948 Price is $5 qt

Mac's Auto sells this oil. They specialize in Model T and Model A parts. www.macsautoparts.com. It costs about $6 a qt--I use it in a 1924 Maxwell rear end. They ship very fast.

So you are saying after the rust removal and treatment to put on the two part epoxy instead of POR-15 and undercoating? Do you brush it on or spary it on when you do it? I have heard you need to be VERY careful when spraying epoxy as it is very bad if inhaled. If you spary, how do you clean the gun--acetone? Thanks

All: Thanks for your inputs. RE: "You're not going to be driving it in the winter salt are you?" Not a chance!!! As far as a generic POR-15--do you have a product number for the PPG equivalent? With regard to undercoating--how do you protect the wheel wheels from gravel abrasion if you do not undercoat?

Well, it?s time to really get down to work on the old 1955 400. This weekend I stripped off the brake drums and backing plates in preparation for a complete brake rebuild including stainless steel lines. Before I go any farther, I?m going to clean up underneath the car. The car is remarkably rust free and is being spruced up to be a driver, not a show car (although I want it to be presentable enough for local shows). Here is my plan: --Steam clean thoroughly the underside of the car, working to remove as much of the old grease and gunk as possible. Where necessary I may use solvent to help this process along. --Wire brush the underside including the diff, etc. to knock off loose old undercoating and surface rust. --Vacuum crevices to get out loose particles from the wire brushing --Prime with Ospho?a product that turns rust into iron phosphate, being careful not to get it on any suspension parts (it can cause hydrogen embrittlement). --Wash lightly with water after the Ospho has dried thoroughly, then let dry for several days. --Paint with POR-15, let dry for several days --Cover POR-15 with undercoating spray (aerosol can)?in some places two coats (like inside the wheel arches) On the differential I will just omit the undercoat?but give it the same treatment as above. I?m going to do the car in sections?like finish a wheel well before going on to another area. Also, I am fortunate to have a heated garage to help with the drying process. I am going to replace most rubber components on the suspension after I do this. The suspension parts will just be cleaned up (wire brushing), primed and painted with black rustoleum (which I think is more flexible than POR-15. What do you guys think of this process? Is there anything I should or should not do??? Thanks,

I noticed an ad from a company in the Nov. 2005 issue of The Cormorant about a conversion kit for the brake light switch to go from the old three prong design to 2 prong. The kit includes a new switch. I have ordered it after reading how many of you have had the original switch fail. Will tell you if its worth the money when I get it.

What is the web address of the Maxwell Messanger?

RE: "I replaced the treadle vac unit with a modern power unit from a Honda Civic" How difficult was that conversion? Where did you mount the unit?

I am going to rebuild the breaking system on my 1955 400, including new wheel cylinders, rebuilt TreadleVac unit, stainless steel lines, etc. What experience do you all have with silicon brake fluid. I have used it in an old MG with no problems, but I hear complaints it swells natural rubber used in some old hydraulic systems.

I was able to get a room, but NOT CHEAP--$189/night plus tax. This hotel still has openings: Hampton Inn & Suites® Hershey 749 E Chocolate Ave Hershey, PA 17033 USA Tel: 1 (717) 533-8400 Fax: 1 (717) 520-1892

I have never been to Hershey but want to go this year mainly for the "flea market". I do not plan to take a car, only buy parts. I noticed on line that the meet registration deadline is already past (Aug 15). Do you have to register to roam the field and buy parts?

Got it--thanks

My Torsion Level Suspension compensator circuit works intermittently. When driving the car seems OK, but often the rear end gets stuck in the raised position. As a first step in correcting the problem I am going to replace the compensator switch with a solid state unit. Now a simple question?where in the car is the compensator switch? I cannot figure it out from the Service Manual and the car is in storage about 10 miles away so going out to look is at it is not easy!!!

Ken; Attachment did not work. The file may be too big. Can you e-mail me a copy at wckennedy@aol.com.

Very interesting--thanks!

RE: "Alfa designs hold up very well (although their 2nd gear synchos don't)and have strong engines (aluminum OHC) and 4 speed gearboxes. Lancia also." I have an Alfa (1988 Spider) and I love it. I also have a 1955 Packard. Comparing the two is meaningless--they are both cars but that is where the simularity ends. One is a toy, the other luxary transportation for a family. However the engineering of the Alfa is far superior to the Packard (also made 1/3 of a century later!!!).

What is the date of the meet?

OK--I remember these pictures. I was confused because the sentence about mounting brackets came after a sentence about vents and I thought you were referring to mounting brackets for the inside of the car.

Brian: RE: "As I recall, the mounting bracket was one of the obstacles, but PackardV8 ssems to have solved that." What has PackardV8 come up with?

Joel: Thank you for this information. How did you happen to meet Charles? Any idea when he passed away? It's nice to know the car was owned by a serious collector.