jps383rb

have a lower control arm which needs a bushing, manual suggest removing bushing by pressing pivot shaft thru arm housing to torsion side, by doing this i'm pushing agianst the flange of the bushing, any thoughts

what body style? if it's a town country 576, 992 were made, if it's a 577, 751 were made. factory cost 576-3691.00, 577-3878.00. hope this helps.

have a 59 saratoga, and it's time for tires. which is best for body style, bias ply or radial, i have heard radials will make this car even lower than it already is and that the replacement tire looks smaller, if so why can't the torsoin bars be adjusted higher to compensate for the radials.......on the other hand hand i hear radials will handle better at higher speeds than bias, does anyone know which tire would cross a 8.5X14 4ply bias tire....any help or ideas thanks jp. ps...also looking for some drums/hubs for this car, 12'drum/hub part#2275433-4

just replying to let others know what was wrong, i replaced the eye ring connectors at the generator (used the expensive ones napa sells) and sure enough it was a bad connector, connector had enternal sleeve, put a cheapy on and it works great 14 volts, 25 volts was an open circuit reading. i know i wont forget this one..ps car runs great

hey finally got my 59 saratoga rebuilt, took 3 years but i'm just about done, have a few minor details before i drive it on 66. my generator was not putting out any volts (did set polarity), but no volts, replaced voltage regulator, but now i've got too many volts or i'm checking it wrong, from generator arm to body ground i get 25 volts, any suggestions out there? thanks beforehand

with a blow out, i would check valve lifters, if its been sitting, there a good chance you could have one or more lifters sticking

i believe your right any 30 weight should be ok, but if your put a detergent oil in the engine without cleaning the inside first, there is a chance that the detergent oil could kick up all the junk and block your intake screen. i think there are more threads here about your subject. good luck jp

reply on engine color post

have you checked under arm rest? sometimes you have to remove arm rest pad, 2 screws underneath, should give access to arm rest mounting screws

i have a saratoga with a 383, orginal color was black. i believe colors started to change in 62. my cars' spec sheet was located under glove box glue to panel, you have to crawl under and look up with a good set of eyes........good luck jp

i got a 59 chrysler, with a 383. are stainless steeel valves really needed for todays type of gasolines?

thanks for the response, but during 1959 to 1961 chrysler made a 383 rb engine, theres a few sites on the internet that talk about this rarity, i was just thinking that because of the 10 1/2 valley, that a wire set for a 440 would work, a 413 might work but i dont know how wide its valley or engine is.....thanks jp

have a 59 chrysler saratoga, engine was apart when i recieved it, getting close to start up, i need a set of spark plug wires, the engine is a raised block 383, valley is wider than most 383's (A 440 manifold can fit on it). anybody have any suggestions and or part numbers, or a web site that shows the different lenghts that the sets have...................thanks jp

i have a 59 chrysler torque flite transmission, does anybody know the correct type of transmission fluid to use?

HELP, i'm currently rebuilding this car. when i got it the engine was in pieces, well i've got the block done, and now i need to mount P.S., altenator, a/c compressor, and idler arm. does anybody know of or have a mech drawing of the locations of the bracketts/spacers and to what item they are attached to? or know a good reference book? keep in mind this is a 383 raised block, only made for a few years for saratogas and windsors...............any help would be grateful.....thanks jp