Filobedo

eBay price $110.05 Thanks Again ~Reatta~ Members. See ya on the 1970's SkyLark & GS Forum

Thanks! Guys, It was a nice run. Have Fun with your ~Reatta~. Maybe one day we'll ride together again

You have to hit the "flush" Nut & Shaft "with" the 'Metal' Hammer. Tap-Tap-Tap It's kind'a ape like but, the Nut saves the Threads... Believe me, it Works

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I say ease up on the guy. He had a total loss of a nice Reatta. ken </div></div> Thanks Ken "Lemme tellya somthin' Brother"... It Was... "Very Nice" Won 1st Place on CarDomain.com Steves ~Reatta~

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I guess you don't mind stepping on toes. </div></div> Look, I Hate eBay too... My `88 Reatta was a recent Total Loss. The only part untouched was the Steering Wheel. I tried to sell it on the Board but, no one was interested. Im just trying to get back part of the $350 tow fee & give the bidders a simple, easy, & free way to remove & replace their Wheel. OK?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't mean to step on Filobedo's toes but I was working on a response while he posted. And dangit... I gots pitchers an everthin so, Ima postin. ( I was raised in Pennsylvania... please forgive if the dialect sometimes oozes out.) [color:\\"red\\"] See attached in this and the next three posts. </div></div> Sorry but, I think it's a big waste of time and money... On a 5 minute job

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How hard is it to install this stering wheel? I need to replace mine but I got a 1988 and the center "R" is different.... </div></div> EASY STEERING WHEEL REPLACEMENT: After pulling off the horn button & disconecting wire, loosen the nut until it's flush with the end of the shafts threads. Brace knees on both sides behind wheel. Then tap on the nut with a hammer while applying pressure with legs. PoP! Install new Wheel onto shaft by tightening nut

eBay price $110.05 Thanks Again ~Reatta~ Members. It was a nice run. Have Fun with your ~Reatta~. Maybe one day we'll ride together again. But, Until Then... See ya on the 1970's SkyLark & GS Forum Post deleted by Filobedo

Post deleted by Filobedo

Hello, I am in need of an 1988-89 Reatta 'Steering Colomn' tan with key. I do not need or want the Steering Wheel so, a Riviera unit will do. Thanks, Steve Montgomery steviestarman@hotmail.com

Mine used to be 'WRAITTH'. Now it's 'FILOBDO' "Every Which Way But Loose" Clint Eastwood

I removed the Paper Clip just to see what happened. Still no Codes. So theres no need for a "Jumper". Just clear all the Codes & disconect the Compressor.

Padgett was right! But, no short needed First clear all the Codes. Then disconect the Compressor. Works Great! Even with the A/C on. WoW! What a relief...

Post deleted by Filobedo

Post deleted by Filobedo

It displays at start up. No matter whats on or off. Thanks

I am currently disabled. And can't afford to charge my A/C right now. Is there any way to stop the "Low Refrigerant" Promt? It displays every time I start the Car. And is becoming a major pain (SOLVED!) 'Update' "Just clear all the Codes & disconect the Compressor".

My 'CarDomain' ~Reatta~ Page has been Updated! (3/31/05) Steve's ~Reatta~ 'Wraith'

CooooL... Thanks!

Thanks but, I am on Disabilaty and this is my "only" afordable option...

My '71 Buick 350 2 Barrel Carb has died... Rather than replace it. I would like to switch to a 4 Barrel. But, The only intake I can find in my area has the EGR. So I would think that it's maybe off a 75-77. I can get both the intake & carb for $100. My question is, Will it work? Also would the Mr.Gasket EGR block off plate found in most parts stores fit? I think it's intended for a Chevrolet. Thanks for any and all input. As this is a poor mans upgrade.

My '71 Buick 350 2 Barrel Carb has died... Rather than replace it. I would like to switch to a 4 Barrel. But, The only intake I can find in my area has the EGR. So I would think that it's maybe off a 75-77. I can get both the intake & carb for $100. My question is, Will it work? Also would the Mr.Gasket EGR block off plate found in most parts stores fit? I think it's intended for a Chevrolet. Thanks for any and all input. As this is a poor mans upgrade.

My '71 Buick 350 2 Barrel Carb has died... Rather than replace it. I would like to switch to a 4 Barrel. But, The only intake I can find in my area has the EGR. So I would think that it's maybe off a 75-77. I can get both the intake & carb for $100. My question is, Will it work? Also would the Mr.Gasket EGR block off plate found in most parts stores fit? I think it's intended for a Chevrolet. Thanks for any and all input. As this is a poor mans upgrade.

The Emissions Sticker on my 1985 Cutlass V6 Carb. says to disconect the 4 Wire Terminal to the Distributor and set Timing at 15 BTDC @ 2200. For one thing it will not start with the 4 Wire Terminal disconected and another it will not idle at 2200. (nor would any Car). So I turned the Distributor while using a Vacumm Gage. Then set the needle to its highest point without jumping. That's the Best I can do. So Far... Any help or suggestions would be Welcome!

QUOTE: [ judging by my own experience with owning a 90 Reatta ] Actually, He's saying that he once "owned" a ~Reatta~ I am familiar with these Spoilers in my area. Not much to them but, they do look decent. The "Glue" or "Tape" refered to is really '3M Molding & Trim Adhesive'. Very Strong with Varied Strengths and Sizes. They bond Hood Scoops to Hoods with it now... Although I would use a Wider Stronger Size then Supplied.