Junkman

My car had been disassembled for many years when I purchased it. Some chassis restoration had been completed including new brake cylinders and brake shoes. The brakes do not function well. It isn't clear how far the disassembly may have been taken before reassembly of the brakes occurred. Is it possible that I will need to loosen the brake shoe anchor hinge mounts on each brake backing plate and re-center the brake shoes inside the brake drum? Is this a normal operation for the Model M?

I am a hobbyist. I do my own work. Maybe I'm too much of a perfectionist, but I can tell you that a quality "show" finish can easily accumulate 1000 manhours for an overall paint job on a car. A production shop isn't accustomed to this level of effort for an overall repaint and probably couldn't stay in business for long charging their customers at that rate. I understand that. A restoration shop should take the time to explain to a discriminating customer why this level of effort is required for a show car finish. If the customer doesn't want that level or can't afford that level, then he would have to throttle the work. If the shop has to bill in the $60/hour range in order to stay in business, it makes sense that such a paint job is going to be very expensive, even before the expensive color coat paint is purchased. I think most antique car owners want a show car finish but have little appreciation for what it takes in labor to get it.

A friend knew that I was searching for a dual cowl phaeton and that I had wanted a car of this type for many years. He had seen an obit in the paper for a long time acquaintance of his who had passed away. He knew from many years ago that this man had the Stutz pictured. My friend had driven the car around 1960 so his recollection was of a much finer car. He proposed that I contact the family and indicate my interest in the car in case they still owned it. Almost a year had passed when they notified me that they would accept my offer for the car. The former owner had disassembled the car to start a restoration before his passing. Many important parts are missing and may be lying in some chrome plating shop somewhere in the country. We're still searching. The restoration will be a challenge, but the result will be quite rewarding. Would you agree? Vic

Thank you for your help. Vic

The VIN shown on my 29 Model M title is one digit different than the engine number on the data plate on the valve cover. Is there another serial number on the car some place that I haven't found yet or is the title incorrect? Vic

I know Rand. Thank you. Vic

I need a carb also.

Contact Art Caldwell, 412-729-3873. He is the chief judge and technical advisor for model L series Lincolns for the Lincoln Owners Club. Vic in Texas

How many leads did you get on this poll? Vic

Great shots, Ed. Can you get in tight on number 2 and 4 of the distributor with good light and add them to this string? Thanks. Vic

[color:"blue"] Look what I found in Texas. 1929 Model M, 145 inch wheel base. Long body. Dual Cowl. Mostly there. That's why I've been asking readers of this forum for help. Vic in Texas. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

A Model M car that I have purchased was disassembled for some time. The flywheel pilot bearing and the clutch throwout bearing were missing. Could anyone tell me the modern day equivalent bearing numbers that would work as replacements for these missing bearings? Thanks in advance for your help.

Thanks, Jason. I'll get in touch with Brian. I sure wouldn't have thought about him as a source. Thanks for the tip.

Can anyone describe the part that is missing at the bottom of my distributer that would fasten to the two bolts shown and hold the distributer in? Does anyone have such a part available that could be sold to me to complete this assembly? Junkman Home Page

[color:"blue"] Thanks for the definitive answer on color. Have any opinions on the pressed steel valve cover?

It's a dual cowl phaeton. Need stanchions for rear also.

Is anyone casting windsheild stanchions for 1929 open cars?

[color:"blue"] Working from the ground up. What is the correct engine color for the vertical 8 for 1929? Is a different color used for bolt-on accessories? Is it true that some cam covers are painted pressed steel and some are polished aluminum? Mine is steel.