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Friartuck

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Posts posted by Friartuck

  1. Looking for a source of this Aluminum Trim. It is 5/8 wide and 3/16 high. It's nailed in place and flexible enough to go around curves on a wood trunk to hide seams. It is filled with an insert, either rubber or leather covered welt. Any suggested replacement?

     

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  2. I can recommend Everlast Auto on St. Georges Avenue, Linden, NJ Their work is high end and somewhat pricey. Eric Gordon is the current owner (son). Everlast has been in business since 1946. They did the leather trim on my Lincoln touring and that vehicle is now an AACA/CCCA senior due largely in part to the interior/top.

  3. A 1930 reproduction 8th series manual I have in my library says to align the two "0" marks on the cam gear with the two "0" marks on the crankshaft sprocket. You say there are no marks on the crankshaft. Did you mean to say crankshaft sprocket? Is it possible that the sprocket is mounted backwards (and the marks are facing in)?

  4. I draw your attention to the CCCA Judges Handbook. The intent is clear (safety) and I rest my case:

     

    AUTOMATIC DISQUALIFICATIONS
    There are six Disqualifications. Check the disqualifications first and
    place a check mark in the appropriate YES or NO Disqualification
    Box(s) at the top of the Judging Form (if Disqualified, notify the
    Area Head Judge immediately).
    Six Items that automatically disqualify a Classic
    1. No Underwriters Laboratories approved fire extinguisher.
    2. Non-safety glass in exterior windows. (See exception in the
    detailed description later in this manual.)
    3. Non-authentic braking system.
    Exceptions: The conversion of a Classic from two to four wheel
    brakes is allowed if the added brakes are of the same type and
    system as the original equipment (no deduction). The addition
    of a booster to an otherwise authentic system is an authenticity
    deduction, see Category #20.
    4. Non-authentic automatic transmission.
    5. Non-authentic engine.
    6. Replica body

     

    Further:

    CAR IS AUTOMATICALLY DISQUALIFIED FROM JUDGING IF
    NOT EQUIPPED WITH SAFETY GLASS IN ALL WINDOWS. NOTE:
    SEE EXCEPTIONS BELOW.
    Tinted Glass if normally not factory equipment. Deduct under
    Exterior Authenticity Category #39. Synthetic Material to Replace
    Fabric Portion of Side Curtains - Deduct under Exterior Authenticity
    Category #39.
    Minor Cracks Or Chips -1
    Large Crack -2
    Discolored -2
    Torn Or Stained Side Curtains -2
    Missing Side Curtain -2
    Side Curtains All Missing -3
    Top Boot Missing (if Std. equipment) -2
    Top Boot in Poor Condition (only if standard equipment) -1
    NOTE: Disqualify the car from judging if not equipped with
    safety glass in all windshield, side vent windows, and most rear
    windows. Safety glass is of three types: laminated, tempered
    and wired. Exceptions — Interior glass and Beveled rear window
    and wind wing glass need not be safety glass if not so originally
    equipped (unless otherwise required by any state or other
    regulatory agency.)
  5. Its OK for the cut out to make the points connect (i.e. ON) at idle. At 1 amp positive on the gauge you're probably at the threshold of where the generator is spinning fast enough to engage the cutout, which is fine. Its when the engine is off where it needs to open and disconnect itself from the battery.  A test you should consider is putting a Volt Ohm Amp Meter in line with the battery lead and see if there is any current while the ignition is off and all accessories are off, doors, closed, etc. Verify the test set up is right by turning on a light or opening a door to get the courtesy light to illuminate. A battery should not drain on its own. Its possible the coil of the cut out is malfunctioning and draining the battery. There is a spring adjustment on the cutout that will force the cutout to open at low speeds. Usually means bending a copper tab with needle nose pliers. Make adjustments with the engine off and battery disconnected to avoid creating another problem.

  6. Why rivet when you can bolt using high tension strength hardware? I'm in the process of putting my ring gear together using Cap screws and thin jam nuts. Hardware available from Mcmaster-Carr. Make sure the shoulder goes through the ring and the carrier leaving room for the threads without bottoming out. Cut off excess threads.  The bolts are longer than needed to get the right should length (critical). Don't forget the appropriate Loctite thread locker (with primer). Use good judgement. Your situation may need special clearances. 

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