yirgaman
-
Posts
355 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by yirgaman
-
-
Thanks Hershey region for another great show - my wife and I also appreciated the national anthem, which we heard each day we were there! It was a nice touch and hope it continues.
Larry and Sue
-
I sold the bumper at Hershey! Thanks again Keiser31 for the help with a photo!!
Larry
-
yes, John - they do! thanks for the help. I'm running out of time here - been packing the trailer all day getting ready to leave at 6 am tomorrow....it's 9:30 pm here.
Larry
-
Well, I've tried many times to attach a picture to my message, but each time I get a
file transfer error. it's the split bumper (fender guard style ) like all the other DL's with a rear spare. I appologize for my lack of computer skills here, but the card reader konked out, and trying all the other options gets me to the transfer error.
Larry
-
here's the photo......
-
I am selling this rear bumper from my DL6, it goes with the rear mounted spare. the bumper is not perfect - but it's pretty good. I really don't want to ship it and I'll be at hershey in the green field, spot numbers GBJ 38-39. I'm asking $350 for it and it includes the bumper brackets. cell phone number is 740 361-1838. I hope the picture attaches........
Larry Yirga
-
My master parts book for Dodge says the rear fenders carry the same part number for Dodge '31 and '32 DH, DG, DL, and DK sedans and are therefore the same. Good Luck!
Larry
-
Sorry it has taken me so long to put my 2 cents in here, but I couldn't find my photo of my DK8 and DL6 for the bumper comparisons. I hope it's attached here someplace, I tried. I have looked through the Master Parts List book for Dodges and found there must be a dozen bumpers that were available for the rear of the cars, but the front had only 2 for the DL and 1 for the DK. The bumpers are listed in the accessories section and that matches with the options that were listed when the cars were sold new. Bumpers were extra cost, just like wheels.
Larry
-
I'm interested in the bumpers for the '32 DK 8, do you know if they were from a coupe, sedan? What kind of shape are they in? do you have the brackets?
Larry Yirga
-
Would you happen to have a Stromberg DXR-3 single barrel in your boatload of carbs?
Please let me know at "yirgaman@netzero.net"
thanks
-
Keiser, just for the record, your tailight lens is for a '33. The '32 has a tip at the top of the lens and the Dodge script is slightly different. The '33 lens will work in the 32 tailight but it slops around a little. I have only found two '32 lenses in 15 years of searching. But I did find several '33's. I'd send a picture, but I don't want to take my tailights apart right now.
Larry
-
Does a '31 tailight bucket, lens and stand look like the 32's oval shape? Or is it a round tailight?
Larry
-
Very good! I was going to dig out my physics book and do the math, but you did it for me!
Thanks for your help. I'll test it after reassembly.
Larry
-
Wow!, stealthBob I never expected brake pressures in that range......I suspected 200psi to 600 maybe. My guess is, if the switch isn't shorted (always closed) it may be useable.
To Gene.......my brakes are all apart.. I wanted to check the switch before I put it all back together - the old switch was stuck or shorted out.
Larry
-
Can a brake light switch be tested - off the car? I tried pushing compressed air into it up to 100 psi, and the switch didn't close according to my ohm meter . Maybe brake line pressures are higher than that? The switch is from a '32 Dodge.
Larry
-
Thanks for your help Frank........I've passed the information along to the fellow (Ron). It didn't occur to me that it could be a Tillotson. These casting numbers and letters get hard to read after 70 or so years.
Larry Yirga
-
Thanks for the info! That would be some trip in my Dodge.......probably 450 or more miles each way.
Larry
-
Ive met a fellow on line who has a '32 Dodge DL6 with a carburetor I've never heard of before. It's a "T MOTSON JRA" updraft. He's looking for some info on adjusting this thing, it's running too rich. Does anyone have any info on this particular carb?
Larry
-
Has a location been set for the 2010 national meeting? or is it too soon to ask?
Larry
-
thanks for the reply Martin. The wheel cylinders were leaking due to the rebuilder using NOS rubber cups (some were red colored), so I replaced all of them with the new rubber cups. My problem has been with the sealing around the copper washers and the brake lines themselves as they screw into the brass brake blocks at the wheel cylinders, I have not had any problem at the T-block on the rear axle???, just at the wheel cylinders. I agree that there seems to be a non-matching angle or other reason the brake line won't conform to the inside of the brake block. I think as I keep tightening, I cause a deformity inside the brass brake block - after that, nothing will work. I thought about using plumbers tape on the fittings, but my experiment in a jar of DOT5 shows a slow disolving of the plumbers tape over time - it becomes sticky and gooey. Copper may be a way out for the brake lines, I know it becomes brittle with vibration over time, but I don't drive this thing over 500 miles a year, and the long line at the rear is supported anyway.
Larry
-
I'm still trying to stop the brake fluid leaks on my '32. I have used all the suggestions given to me....new bolts, new washers, new fittings,new lines. I even went back to old fittings, and washers from the "other rear end". I know that when I put DOT 5 in the other Dodge, I had to re-tighten the lines tighter than with DOT3 that had been in the system, but I've been using DOT5 for 5 years in that car with no problems. The only thing I didn't change is the wheel cylinders - these have been re-built professionaly, but not sleeved because they were within specs and not pitted.
Has no one else ever ran into this?
Larry
-
Am I the only person in the world who can't make the switch to DOT5? I have been going around and around with the brakes on my '32 DK Dodge. The biggest problem is at the rear brake wheel cylinders. I have tightened the brake block bolts into the wheel cylinder so tight that I have distorted the wall in the cylinder, and the fluid still leaks out around the washers. I've tightend the lines into the block to the point of distorting the fitting, and still get leaks around the fitting on both sides of the car. I have used new copper washers, different thickness washers, new bolts, new block fittings,I even went to and old '32 rear axle and reused all the old parts including old washers - still got leaks. I'm on my fourth attempt at bending new lines to start all over again. I tighten the things snug at first, then gently increase the tightness each time I find a leak, so I'm not overtightening immediately.
I really want to use DOT 5, and it worked out great on my other '32 Dodge, been driving it for 5 years with no problem. I'm open to suggestions
Larry
-
If you want to part out the engine, i'd be interested in getting the vacuum clutch canister and control valve assembly if it's there and not broken or stuck. email me at
"yirgaman@netzero.net"
Larry
-
Do you have a teenager driving this car around when you're not looking? Or maybe someone is syphoning your gas. That happened to my cousin.
Larry
1932 Hubcaps
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Phil, you wanted to know about the DK hucap, it has an 8 between the D and the B. The center of the wire wheel hubcaps look the same as wood, but the wood has the big bottom to fit over the ring on the wood wheel.
I finally figured out how to do the attachments (I think)
Larry