trimacar
-
Posts
9,518 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
24
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by trimacar
-
-
We’re so used to scams that when a real deal comes along, most people are hunkering down thinking “won’t fool me”.
Then, it turns out to be real, and really, a real deal.
You have my permission to slap your forehead now.
-
2
-
2
-
-
19 hours ago, Akstraw said:
Dave, do you have a source for these? I bought two several years ago on Etsy to use on my Marmon project, but subsequently used one of them on a Detroit Electric. Now that I am close to execution on the Marmon interior, I’d like to get another,
I sent you a message with some of her contact information. thanks dc
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, Akstraw said:
Dave, do you have a source for these? I bought two several years ago on Etsy to use on my Marmon project, but subsequently used one of them on a Detroit Electric. Now that I am close to execution on the Marmon interior, I’d like to get another,
I can't find her address in my files, but think I have it on a box of mats which I bought, will look and get back to you. Yes, Etsy is where I found them first, she no longer posts them there as I'm sure you found out. thanks dc
-
1
-
-
On the top sockets, yes, very common in early high end cars to have sockets wrapped in leather and stitched.
You’ll find that fitting backrest leather with a seam that low on the armrest will be very challenging around the top side corners, usually a seam is right in the middle if the curve, often two seams to get the extra leather needed to go around the top curve.
-
-
2
-
1
-
-
Search mecum auction 2024 1931 chevrolet landau
-
3
-
-
On the horsehair, I found a woderful woven mat, great for cushions.
-
1
-
-
Wrong venue as mentioned, and after transportation and auction fees, seller probably cleared 8,000 or so. My first car in 1964 was a 31 Chevy, still have it,would love to have a landau phaeton.
-
3
-
-
Quote
80k sounds a little low, but if same owner had it (who bought from Hyman), over 40k hit would be tough. I’d think car should sell closer to 100k, my personal opinion is that it has a new body, would love to see “before” pictures but would bet it was rough. As to rarity, I kept a roster on 1909-10 Models 16 and 17, right at 60 known in existence, about half and half between sporty 16 and sedate touring 17.
-
3
-
-
That looks like a great buy, probably not to restore, but to get running and have fun with. I bet it sells quickly.
-
For small parts, you can buy a chrome marker at Hobby Lobby, I use a thin end one to touch up bumpers on Aurora Tjet slot cars, but they make a wider one which could do small jobs like dash bezels and such on early cars.
-
1
-
2
-
-
Wow I missed that one, I've been looking for a 31-32 landau phaeton for years, and now I'm getting too old to buy one! I would have bought that one and used it as is, maybe a little sewing on the leather flaps!
-
4
-
-
38 minutes ago, alsfarms said:
What is your take on using horse hair matting that is about 1" thick, maybe two layers of it?
Al
You don't need two layers, the jute, one layer horsehair mat, cotton batting on top of horsehair, makes a great cushion.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, alsfarms said:
Hello Dave,
As I have edged closer to upholstery in this Locmobile, and having had experience with foam in the past, I already knew that I was NOT at all interested in using foam anywhere on a brass era vintage automobile. Foam simply deteriorates in the dry heat/sun we have here in the west! I have sniffed out a couple of sources for purchasing horsehair and in a couple of configurations. Once I get the seat cushion wood bases built, suitable strap springs installed and tied down I will certainly want additional information on the next step/steps. But, here are a few questions I consider as I start on building the bases. How tall should the front face be and how much shorter should the back be? 4.5" front and 2.5" on the back? How much preloading or pull down should be put on the springs during the tying process? Should canvas or burlap cover the springs and be tacked to the wood structure? How much room should be allowed between the seat base wood structure and back rest structure for the back rest build up with springs, padding and leather? More questions as I think of them.
Al
Wohl in Philadelphia sells horsehair by the pound, as does Mel Draper. I used the wood form to determine where welting ends up, between front panel and top pad. Install top panel, then welting, then side panels. Your dimensions sound about right. That’s just how I did it per pictures, there are other ways of course.
when tying springs you should feel about what’s right, maybe an inch or so compression. Springs covered with burlap or heavy fabric, then jute, then horsehair, then a layer of cotton over horsehair.
-
1 hour ago, alsfarms said:
Here is a source for strap springs that should work ok for the seat bottoms. They come in different lengths to fit the seat box.
Al
Yes, the Amish use those, making a wood base to hold them for the cushion. Usually early seats don’t have edgewire, just tied springs. Marshall springs are just an option, most early backrests followed carriage pactice and also had short, weaker, tied springs. There are numerous ways to do this, as evidenced by the comments! My other advice, use horsehair and cotton, no foam.
-
1
-
-
OK, new body, so I understand what you're working with.
As to applying horsehair directly to leather, no, that's not common practice.
The cushions will be padded quite a bit, the backrest much less so. If you wish to use Marshall springs for the backrest, 13 gauge would work well. I would NOT recomment Marshall springs for the cushion, the firm ones are fine for furniture but not bouncing down the road. Cushions should be made with individual springs of a substantial gauge, tied together.
There are spring assemblies for cushions, available, usually a bar which gets attached to a wood base, the bar has three or four springs mounted to it. The Amish use these quite a bit, offhand I don't have a source but they're available.
The construction of the cushion base, for an early car, would be as pictures show, a base with wood risers on the front and sides, the sides slant down toward the back. This construction makes it easy to install front and side panels, welting, and top. The front of the cushion will have extra padding as a support bolster, this area divided by a piece of welting.
I have available some really nice horsehair, woven into a burlap mat, which makes a great cushion.
Like most upholstery jobs, easy to show you in person, hard to explain with words.
-
6
-
-
Well,that’s an interesting project. You’ll find that the simple look of those seats is misleading, difficult to do that inside curve and make it look nice, even moredifficult to keep it smooth if someone sits in it.
Yes, you need springs on the backrest. One way is to use premade Marshal spring units, the original probably had individual springs attached to back of seat and tied together.
I would not use the “patcher” machine for upholstery leather, you really need a walking foot machine with feet flush to table. You can try it but doubt you’ll be happy doing it.
Welcome to give you my advice, probably worth every penny since it’s free! Do you have any original springs or upholstery?
-
3
-
-
Car was sold to the Dallas Texas area. On Sunday January 14th, 2024, this lovely Buick will cross the block at Mecum Kissimmee auction. There are great road cars. Think Hyman asked $125K, interesting to see where it ends up at auction.
I've personally inspected car, a few nitpicks as to originality and liberties taken during restoration, but overall a very nice car.
-
3
-
-
And, in all the bs and hostility, a couple of well stated facts about our economy!
If the price were 10k, and in the condition pictured, it would be worth dealing with him. But, it’s not, it’s not, and it’s not.
-
5
-
-
As to taxes, any asset owned over a year has a reduced capital gain tax, as low as 0% if your income is low, to a maximum of 20% if you earn big bucks. That’s only applied to gain (profit), not the entire sale price.
I’m not a CPA, but would advise talking to one to see exactly how sale of a collector car should be handled.
I’d say the large majority of lesser valued cars, in a private sale, have no tax implications at all, when cash is paid for vehicle. Of course, at auction, paperwork establishes money changing hands.
-
1
-
-
19 hours ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:
I actually found it creative and amusing. He must figure a real buyer know what they are getting into..
I agree, it’s a clever ad by a fellow who is either a great creative writer or is someone who cannot tell a lie!
-
2
-
-
Great looking car!
I never have understood the “make me an offer” thing, I know that each car I have, I’d know what I’d ask if it was for sale. I believe everyone has a price in mind when they go to sell a car.
You have a price in mind, why not just state it?
-
2
-
-
Well, as my hero W. C. Fields would say, " It is well to remember that there are five reasons for drinking: the arrival of a friend, one's present or future thirst, the excellence of the Rye Whiskey, or any other reason."
Personally, I only drink when I'm alone or with people, not sure about Ed....
I have a car I'm working on now which is driving me to drink, and it's a very short trip...
-
2
-
6
-
-
Is that a casting date of 1951? Appears to be a post-war engine.
Upholstery Questions for a 1909 Locomobile Baby Tonneau
in Technical
Posted
Not a normal way to do so. The Dodge would have wide pleats, easy to sew leather to a backing material (I use cotton muslin) then stuff pleats with cotton batting. Usually two layers of one inch batting work. Mark muslin to width of final pleat, mark leather to that width plus 5/8 inch. Fold leather at marks and gently hammer the creases along the lines, then sew creases to backing material lines. Before sewing, mark a perpendicular line on both leather and backing at end where you’ll start sewing, keep that lined up when starting each stitching, keeps leather from going askew. Put cotton batting between two sheets of slippery material and pull through pleat, then remove slippery material.