Jump to content

rhb1999

Members
  • Posts

    592
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by rhb1999

  1. Hello carnut, The Caddy hearse is in Jacksonville, Florida. I haven't seen it up close, it's in a fenced-in area at a boneyard. From what I could see of it looked restorable. They might let me in to take a closer look, maybe get some pictures. I've been going there for a long time and know some of the people. I bought a incomplete parts car from them last year for a $150, with the understanding that it would be used for parts only. But I have also seen other cars bought from this place so it's possible that people are getting clear titles for them, but the manager has since left and his assistant has taken over. One possible way to get cars like this is to tell them you want it for a demo derby. Feel free to call me at (904)571-7810 9 PM EST or anytime weekends, or e mail rhb1999@hotmail.com

  2. Thanks NTX5467 for your insight. I'm sorry, what I should have said was that it didn't LOOK damaged. Like you said, the correct thing would have been to remove the rod and have it checked for size along with the rod journal. ( I was able to plasigage the journal) But, this car is my daily driver and I only had a weekend to work on it, and until I get one of my other cars on the road I'm just going have to baby this one. Then I hope to get into it. I've been driving it for about a month and no problems YET! I have another Buick 231 in another car that I put new mains and rod bearings in and a high volume oil pump kit, timing set, etc., but thats another story.

  3. Thanks again, the oil light had been coming on when the engine had a spun bearing on # 2 rod, but I stopped driving it soon after it happened. The rod was not damaged and all that was on the crank journal was a gray colored ring around it, but with no grooving or galling, it was smooth to the touch. ( I plastigage it and it showed 2 thousand clearance) I replaced all the rod bearings but the oil light still comes on at idle. I want to put in a stiffer spring as a temporary measure until I can get into engine. I suspect the cam or cam bearings at least the main bearings are showing wear. This engine has nearly 150,000 on it and it doesn't smoke and performs very well. And gets 20 mpg. I hope I can save this engine without a major rebuild. I have a '81 Chevrolet Malibu 2-dr. 229 V-6 that we bought new that when it finally stopped running had 343,000 miles on it, so why can't a Buick achieve high mileage!

  4. I have a 1981 231 V-6, and want to swap out relief valve spring. Do I need repack the pump gears after doing this ? I thought I saw this question on this forum, but couldn't find it. Thanks in advance.

  5. I have a 1984 Buick Regal 231 V6 w/ electronic spark timing distributor. I can get it running, but stalls almost immediately. The carburetor has been rebuilt. Could it be a wiring problem, the throttle position sensor, also what should the resistance (ohms) or volts for the mixture control solenoid be? I have had a non-feed back carburetor on it (from a 1980 231) and it starts and runs but at a fast idle that can't be adjusted. In the past I have not been able to retrieve any codes. This is the next thing I will try again. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  6. I have a 1981 Buick Century 4-dr. in #3 condition w/ a 231 2bbl automatic. I was getting 16.5 mpg w/ standard Bosch plugs then installed the platinim +4 and now get between 19-20 mpg, in addition the performance has improved. Before I did all this the check engine light was and still is coming on. I retrieved a code and the book says "lean oxygen sensor". If I replace the oxygen sensor, how do you think it might affect the mileage.

  7. I got all of the pistons out, on #1 and #6, I first knocked the outboard rod bolts loose with a copper hammer, than push the bolt until it hit the side of block, and cut the top part of bolt away, #6 I had to cut it twice. Doing this, I was able to knock the pistons out with a 3/4 by 3/4 inch piece of hardwood.

  8. I have a 1981 Malibu 2-dr. with a 229 V-6, the engine is stuck. I took the pan and the heads off and sprayed a few cans of P-B Blaster in the cylinders, top and bottom (there is no rust in cylinders) So far I've gotten two pistons out, #2 and #5. The other pistons will move. The problem I'm having now is with #1 and #6, if it weren't for the outboard rod bolts it seems the rods would clear the block and the piston would come out. My question is, how hard is it to get these rod bolts off the rod, if possible could I put the nut on it, and knock it out with a hammer or some other means. This could or will damage the bolt, if so I could have new ones installed, but will it damage the rod? I'm hoping that if I get two more pistons out that the crankshaft will turn and I will be able to get to the flexplate/torque converter bolts. Could the tranmission be locked up? Any good thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

  9. I have a 1982 Buick 231 engine w/ a computer distributor and want to put in a non-computer vacuum advance distributor. I taped a piece of cardboard on the upper radiator hose to mark the place of the position of the rotors. I took the computer distributor out and put in the vacuum advance distributor (from a 1980 231), but the only way it will go in all the way, is if the rotor is off the marks made by the computer distributor. I noticed after that the position of ignition module is different: the computer type is on the top,when in the engine and the vacuum type on the bottom. I guess,I will have to rotate the oil pump shaft until the rotor lines up with the original mark made by the original computer distributor. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

  10. I have a 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass factory car stereo, Electronically Tuned Receiver (ETR) with these features: am stereo, graphic equalizer, auto DNR, (Dynamic Noise Reduction) tape bias, seek/scan, loudness, 4 presets, and cassette player w/ tape search. Is this stereo a rare option? Thanks.

  11. I have a 1984 Buick Regal which had a 231 V-6, but it had a bad crankshaft, so I bought another one from a neighbor for $100 that came from a '82 cutlass. The engine sounded strong before I pulled it, but I opened it up anyway. I replaced the timing set, front and rear seals, lifters, rod and main bearings, pickup screen, valve seals, and fuel pump and installed a high volume kit. I swapped the computer for one from a '82 model. It started and ran but there was a flat spot. I put this project on the shelf for awhile. When I got back to it, it would crank but wouldn't start. So I rebuilt the carburetor and the flat spot appears to be gone but it still wouldn't start. I'm on my third junkyard computer and with all of them the car starts but it stops immediately. I changed the PROM each time. When I disconnect the computer and the terminals to the carb the engine starts and runs, but at a high idle. I'm assuming these computers are bad and I'll have to buy a new one. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Bob

  12. I saw a 1985 Buick Lesabre Limited "Collector's Edition" with sunroof, in a junkyard today. For parts or a driver. This car looks like it's been well maintained. It could be bought cheap. I know this because I bought a parts car from them recently. It could even have a clear title. I could give their phone number but it seems like a busy place, and I don't want them swamped with calls. Can get pictures. Florida Call or E-mail (904)571-7810 rhb1999@hotmail.com and I'll give you the number and help all I can.

×
×
  • Create New...