WCraigH
-
Posts
1,139 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by WCraigH
-
-
Welcome Jerry!
In response to an email I sent you, you were kind enough to respond with some digipix of your conversion. Maybe you could upload them to your website and post a "private link" here for the edification of the other members.
-
KNYE 95.1 FM Radio, Pahrump, NV. This station is owned by Art Bell of late-night talk show fame. During the day, it features oldies music with minimum commercials and during the wee hours the "Coast to Coast" talk show with regular host George Noory. Occasionally, Art hosts a show.
Within the last 2 weeks, Art's wife of 15 years, Ramona, died unexpectedly in her sleep during a vacation in Laughlin. She handled all the business aspects of the station and occasionally was the spokeswoman for some local businesses on radio spots. During a live commentary I heard today, Art said that he is unsure what the future of KNYE will be, but he hopes it will continue.
A couple of KNYE's slogans: "Putting more in the air than Area 51", and "KNYE: things that go Pahrump in the night."
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Craig, Did you determine WHY the plugs kept it from starting? (snip) </div></div>
No. Buying new plugs and installing them was the very LAST thing I tried. Previously, I changed HEI components, an entire HEI distributor, another (known good) QJet carb, compression test, checked all valve train components, etc., etc.
So, by the time I got to the plugs, I was so disgusted with it, that I just threw the plugs in the trash! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">O.K. I have good spark on all 8 plugs, I have fuel. If you were me what would be your next step? (snip) </div></div>
I had the same problem with my 1976 Firebird 400 last month. If the timing is close and a spritz of "starter fluid" down the carb doesn't do it, then change spark plugs. That was my 'Bird's problem. The plugs were gapped OK, but were black and wet. Even cleaning them up didn't work. Oh yeah, the old plugs were Champions and the new ones are AC.
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Go for the best condition car that you can afford. Paying a little more up front may save money,time and grief in the long run. </div></div>
Great advice! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> That's was the deal with my 55 Pat. Maybe the 56 is slightly better looking because of the headlight eyebrows, but not much. I've had many people exclaim how great looking is my 4dr Pat. That's true. So is a 56 Pat. The 56 Exec and Clipper are super looking also.
Hey, this question has no answer! Both 55 and 56 are terrific compared to anything else extant.
-
Albert,
That is one <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> (pun intended) blaster! Any idea on cost? Their website says "inquire". Also, my Craftsman 6HP compressor is only rated at 12CFM continuous whereas the "E" (economy) blaster requires 100CFM min. Of course, I have to wait for my compressor to catch up with most air tools, but on the other hand, usually nothing is evaporating while I'm waiting! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
-
I agree with the others above, but here's a really nit picky one that hasn't been mentioned, I don't think: The accelerator pedal needs to be angled from 12-noon to about 1:30PM position. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />
Bernardi's right about the pull E-brake handle. I think I'll put a foot actuated E-brake in my Panther. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> I have to redo the whole cable linkage anyway because of the rear disc brakes.
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)It gave me a very good look at all of the cylinders - esp three of them - from top down to oil pan. Yes, right down to the bottom. There were no pistons, no connecting rods, nothing - in three cylinders. The crank journals looked good from the top though. One cylinder was heavily scored - likely from the rough removal of a rod. The other 5 cylinders looked good though.
</div></div>
Whoa!!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />
You are missing the internals of 3 cylinders!?!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I took a deep breath, turned off the lights, closed the door and went inside for a drink. Good thing I still have the 151 proof rum left over.... (snip)</div></div>
That sounds like an appropriate short term solution! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) do I not hold the screwdriver metal shank against the engine block or just real close? </div></div>
"real close", like 1/8-in or so. You should see the spark jump the gap between the screwdriver and the block and also hear a "snapping" sound.
-
Recently, I had a similar problem with my 76 Firebird which had been sitting inside for months. Everything checked good (battery, gas, carb, ignition, timing, compression), but it wouldn't start. Finally, I changed to new spark plugs and it started right up and ran smoothly. Go figure. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
Also, you might try spraying some <span style="font-style: italic">Engine Starting Fluid</span> down the carb throat (air cleaner removed) while somebody else turns the engine over. WARNING: stand clear in case of backfire, i.e., don't be sticking your nose down the carb to see what's going on!
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thank You to everyone for your help. I came into a marriage not knowing a thing about cars. Now that we have 2 show cars (Mustang & Lincoln)I have to start learning. (snip)</div></div>
So, when you buying a Packard? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
BTW, There are some period Ford & Lincoln parts (Autolite, Dana, Bendix) in 50s Packards. Of course, also some GM (Delco, Bendix). Kinda interbred in the industry from major suppliers, it seems.
-
Big Kev,
How many circuits in this kit? Gotta URL link to the manuf and your kit?
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a question for all of u Packard history experts: What was Packards ticker and when was IPO and what was the dividend????????? </div></div>
From <span style="font-weight: bold">Speedster</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Yep, Gonna be hard to find anyone around that Owned Packard stock.</div></div>
How about an actual stock certificate:
Notice the name of the shareholder: Allison (click for full size -- 320KB)
-
Any engineer with "half a brain" would fit the back of the block with a BOP or Chebbie bolt-pattern for the tranny. Then it would be relatively simple to make a spacer "kit" to adapt a T-U. The opposite adapation is the real problem.
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I noticed an ad from a company in the Nov. 2005 issue of The Cormorant about a conversion kit for the brake light switch to go from the old three prong design to 2 prong. The kit includes a new switch. I have ordered it after reading how many of you have had the original switch fail. Will tell you if its worth the money when I get it. </div></div>
I have one of these kits on my 55 Pat. When I mounted the relay in the engine compartment, as the instructions said, it failed within a short time. I bought a replacement relay at the local Radio Shack and rewired it to mount inside the (much cooler) passenger compartment under the dash. It's worked perfectly ever since.
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Looks like a great fix. I'm not familiar with the truck fuel tank ball valve but since it is obviously designed for fuel application and not water then what is the life expectancy due to rust????? </div></div>
Great question! What's the life expectancy of the original design? Not very good, it appears. Because of it's "ball" (and brass) design rather than the original "plunger & seal" (alum & rubber?) design, I'd have to agree with Paul's assessment: "ball valves don't ever leak!" Only 50 years from now will we know for sure, but I'm inclinded to believe Paul's expectation. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
-
During my visit to Paul's in Las Vegas today, Paul showed me his solution for the leak-prone standard heater valve (see Plate 29E in Parts book):
The leak occurs at the arrow point, all over your carpet! Paul tested 4 used ones he had on hand an they all leaked. So, he slightly modified a fuel tank ball valve off a truck. There's no "thermal" control, just mechanical, but on the other hand that valve will probably last more than 50 years:
Valve installed on Passenger inside firewall
From the firewall side, it looks stock:
-
email or private message me for my phone number. I may be interested.
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Let's not forget the need for a generator mounting bracket that must be very sturdy. </div></div>
Good point, but in the case of my Panther and KevinAZ's 400, we're going with 1 wire alternator which requires a different bracket yet.
-
Addendum to :
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about as long as we are going to do it, lets put in a divider for the center port. </div></div>
After inspection on a spare head this morning, it appears that the limiting factor of the center exhaust port width is equally constrained by the head bolt holes and the exhaust manifold bolt holes. Allowing for 0.030" minimum wall thickness in the exhaust port, the maximum width possible of the center exhaust port is approx 1.7". This would yield approx 3.7sq-in (w/2.0in height). This improves the ratio of center to end port area to 1.55:1 (from 1.28:1 stock), but still pretty far from the ideal 2.0:1. Now, if you put a center divider in there, that will reduce the cross sectional area back towards stock. Any gain due to exhaust pulse tuning would probably be more than offset by the restriction. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
Due to the layout of the head bolt holes in the block, there's no easy way around this limitation. A proper solution would require an entirely new head design with relocated exhaust ports, such as what Pontiac did with the Ram Air V (Tunnel port) head. Not in this reality, for sure. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">SO is the center tube over sized to manage the extra exhaust volumes. I am just curious as i don't yet own a Packard V-8 </div></div>
Yes. In theory for a 3-tube design, the center pipe should have twice the cross-sectional area (ID) of the cross-sectional area of each end pipe. However, this is not practical in the real world.
The Packard V-8 exhaust ports at the flange measure approx: end ports=1.1"wide x 2.0"high, center port=1.4"wide x 2.0"high. This corresponds to an area ratio of 1.28 (not 2.0)! The area ratios of some of the possible exhaust pipe diameter combinations are as follows:
end=1.5, center=2.0: 1.81:1
end=1.5, center=2.125: 2.05:1
end=1.625, center=2.125: 1.75:1
end=1.625, center=2.25: 1.96:1
end=1.75, center=2.5: 2.08:1
Another consideration is having the exhaust pipe inside cross-sectional area at least equal to the valve discharge area at maximum cam lift. For a stock Packard V-8 with 1.687" OD valve size and cam lift of approx 0.400", this is 2.19sq-In. The ID cross sectional area of common exhaust end pipes are:
1.5: 1.63sq-In
1.625: 1.92sq-In
1.75: 2.24sq-In
For the center pipe, the ID x-sectional area should be 4.38sq-In to match the 2 exhaust valves' area. The ID cross sectional area of common exhaust center pipes are:
2.0: 2.95sq-In
2.125: 3.35sq-In
2.5: 4.67sq-In
So, from an matched-area point of view, the best combo of exhaust pipe sizes would be 2x1.75" (ends) and 1x2.5" (center). These are the sizes of the tubes used on the old 3-Tube Hedman headers for early GTO, for instance, and no doubt most others of that type.
However, this presents a practical problem because of the relatively small size of the Packard V-8 center port. A 2.5" tube has an internal circumference of 7.66". The approx perimeter length of the center port (roughly rectangular with radiused corners) is 6.37". A closer match to this port would be the 2.25" tube which has 6.48" internal circumference.. The end ports and tube mismatch is similar. The perimeter length of the end port is approx 5.77" and a 1.75" tube has an internal circumference of 5.30". A better match would be the 1.875" OD tube which measures 5.70" internal circumference.
Finally, from a convenience fit point of view, the smallest OD tubes are the easiest, i.e., 1.5" OD ends with 2.0" center. However, this yields an area ratio of 1.81:1 (see above) and is only 78% and 71% of the max lift valve areas for the end and center ports, respectively.
This is no doubt more than you wanted to know, but are some of the engineering considerations that go into designing a set of headers. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How about as long as we are going to do it, lets put in a divider for the center port. (snip) </div></div>
In my experience, unless the headers are true equal length or real Tri-Y design (which both take advantage of tuned pulse effect) separating the center exhaust won't make much difference. The main problem I'm trying to "fix" with simple, convenience-fit headers is the inherent restriction of the stock log-style manifolds. Then an owner could put Flowmasters or whatever mufflers on his V-8 Packard for about a 25HP & 20TQ gain with no other mods according to Dyno2K numbers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">While you are at it, make a set to fit the 1956 Golden Hawk. More Studebaker owners are into performance than are Packard owners.</div></div>
Well, if you'll get a 56J to Pahrump, NV and leave it for about 2 months for this project, then I'll do it! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
-
Now that I have your attention... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
Actually, if things work out, I may engineer and produce a few sets. KevinAZ is possibly interested in a set for his 55 400, I'd like a set for my Panther, Turbopacman for his 56 Pat. Anybody else interested? Price and exact design TBD.
This is a "feeler" kind of post. Having said that, you should know that I have experience designing and selling custom design headers. I designed a Tri-Y style for the Gen-2 Firebird back in the 1970s and sold them thru my company at that time, H-O Racing.
Today, I jacked up my Pat and did some preliminary measuring and "eyeball" engineering for a 3-tube style header for it. The passenger side is "cake". Despite the "busy" nature of the driver side, fitting a 3-tube style (remember that the Packard center exhaust port is siamesed) to the driver side should be no problem. The only question is the maximum size of the tubing: 2x1.5&1x2 or 2x1.625&1x2.125 or 2x1.75&1x2.5. That will be determined later.
Comments solicited. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) However, from what I have read, the second design, the one which recycles overpressure oil internally instead of dumping it out into the pan, is the way to go.(snip)</div></div>
IMO, the 2nd design is capable of pumping [color:"red"] slightly more oil than the 1st design because of the the recycle feature. [color:"red"] BUT, the major deficiency of any Packard or HASH oil pump is the 10 shallow tooth gears rather than the 7 deep tooth gears of the (for example) Olds HD pump.
The best solution is to adapt the Olds HD oil pump, which we'll be doing soon.
Slow News Day
in Packard
Posted
Thanks for the pix.
What's the deal on that grille curve on the bottom? Is that original? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />