waltmail
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Posts posted by waltmail
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It says brake pressure.
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I've got a rock hard pedal with no braking power on my '89 Reatta.
CRT display says brake pressure low. I am of the opinion that I need
to replace my accumulator. Does anyone have a write up or
suggestions/tips? Is it as simple as it looks?
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Thanks to the advice I received, I am now an expert at repairing disjointed shifter cables. My problem was at the tranny end. Easily accessed from the top side. Just snapped the cable socket back on the tranny shifter lever pawl and bingo, I have shift. Thanks so much for the direction.
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I hope someone comes up with this one. I am experiencing
same problem with my '89.
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Great insight. I have a block of wood chocking my front wheel right now. I am glad to hear the possible problem is what I thought it might be, as in cable problem. I'll let you know if for nothing else than helping out someone down the line.
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Thanks for the reply.
No, I haven't had any tranny work done lately. With your info, it seems worth my while to get underneath and check the cable condition out. I am familiar with aftermarket cable operated shifters as I work on quite a few classic restomods. Is the Reatta shifter cable readily available to your knowledge?
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I haven't driven the '89 Reatta for awhile. Got a big surprise. Started it, stuck it in reverse and the shifter just kept going. No gear selection or detents. Is this a cable actuated system or shifting link? BTW, it won't go back into park now. Any hints?
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My '89 will not start. I suspect a fuel pump. If I go into diagnostics mode, even though the vehicle won't start, will there be a " code " designating the fuel pump as a problem or do I need to in use a fuel pressure guage while cranking the motor? Thanks for any tips.
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The car is an '89. I used my dial calipers to measure the diameter of the bar. Came to 1.25.
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If anyone has replaced the mounting bushings and clamps on the sway bar, is there anything I might need to know before tearing into the chore. I purchased a set of 1.25 " replacements from ESPO. Is it a huge chore or fairly straight forward ?
Thanks in advance for any tips.
Walt
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This may not be unrelated, but I had been suffering with an oil leak for over a year. It got so bad, that I was replacing 1 qt. of Synthetic per week. I bought valve cover gaskets and a pan gasket, but since I didn't want to work on a filthy engine, I used a compressor and cleaned all of the motor and tranny with a degreaser first. Then like an idiot, I crawled under the car while it was running. DO NOT DO THIS !!!! Saw it leaking down the new filter. Nope. It was the oil pressure sending unit. $30.00 later, it doesn't leak a drop. I should have known. The oil pressure reading was as erratic as could be. As high as 50 as ,low as 17. Turns out, it was leaking out of the top of the unit where the wire lead snaps in. NO gaskets needed. Got a refund. Good luck and worth checking.
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I am attempting to get rid of the rattles on my '89. So far I replaced the anti sway bar link kits. Totally shot. I an now trying to locate a set of mounting bushings. I have had no luck. Are these rare, or unavailable. Does anyone know of a source or close fit that I can modify? If anyone knows of any other cause for fron end rattle, I am listening. The links got rid of quite a bit.
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If you don't mind traveling to Deerfield Beach, check out Avant's Auto Service. He is a Buick specialist and knows Reatta's quite well. If you do, tell him Walt sent you. He has worked on my 89 when I get lazy or too busy. 40 NW 2nd Avenue, 954 480 6056 Ask for Lonnie Avant.
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I developed a major rattle and looseness in the front suspension on the '89. The anti sway bar links were toatlly shot. I replaced those yesterday. Easy enough to do. I still have "some" rattle, though not nearly as severe. Could it be the struts? The rack is road handling tight.
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I live in Boca and drive a Red 89. There are about a half dozen in the area. red that is. Density of Reattas in this area is high. Don't know why.
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This item went for 290.59. I would have paid it.
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Last January, I posted a question concerning my 89 Reatta heater system. I had a constant heat on condition. Fine in winter, not so good in South Florida Summer. I finally figured out the access to the duct work , etc. Remove the glove box assembly and expose the cavity that holds the computer and electronic controls. It turns out, the previous owner had work done in this area and the rod connecting the servo motor unit to the shutter door was disconnected. Must have been forgotten during reassembly. The actual computer body needs to be removed to get to the door lever. Once the computer was reinstalled, the tinkerer either forgot to hook the rod up or got lazy when they discovered it. Then again maybe the servo motor was bad and they deliberately unhooked it. Temporarily, I have wedged the door in the A/C position. I would like to replace the servo motor. I believe the part # is 54446 ( as identified by a sticker on the module). If anyone has a spare, I am interested in acquiring a working used unit. Please contact me if you have a unit for sale.
Walt in SoFlo
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Typo or brain F%$&. it ios an '89.
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Can someone steer me in the right direction on a heater problem? I have owned my '86 for 3 years and the heater has never engaged. All of a sudden, since I tried it recently, the heater is stuck on. I cannot disable the heater air ducts. I noticed this while driving without the climate control system on. Hot air started accumulating at the foot level. I activated my screen with the climate mode and I can't get fresh air, cold air, just heated air. This is not a situation where the a/c is not blowing cold. This is a situation where the system is stuck on heat. The display does not indicate this, but the heated air does. Can someone explain to me the control module or some such similar device that would create this problem? I have gone from one extreme to the other. Thank you.
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I tried linking to these sites but didn't have necessary password. Help?
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Okay. It does have the smell of rotten eggs if you can get past the burning acid smell. It will cause large quantities of Murine to be used.
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For a while I actually thought that if I sat in the seat , locked the doors with the inside door switch, exited the vehicle and closed the door, the horn alarm would go off, because that is what would happen. If I was out of the vehicle, not on the seat, and locked the doors with the inside switch, no alarm when doors closed. I swore the seat had a sensor in it. I'm still not sure of that one. Has anyone experienced this sequence of events?
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Must be a joke . The site does not apply. It would be interesting.
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I just want to apologize for not searching the topic feature before asking about my fan blower motor. I belive all of my questions were answered in previous posts. My new question would be the interchangeability of parts within the Buick realm. If part # 12484912 - a/c power module is my problem, will just about any a/c equipped GM vehicle use this same module? My recycle yards do not have many ( joking ) Reattas. Thanks for any tips.<P>Walt DiDomenico
Brake accumulator replacement
in Buick Reatta
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It is cured. Turned out it was one of the relays. Can't be specific as to which, as I replaced them both and was elated and left well enough alone. Thanks for the insight.