baking
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Posts posted by baking
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My 70 Skylark is dieing whenever I come to a stop or go around a corner. I have to put it in neutral and give it gas whenever I come to a stop. Once I'm stopped it will idle OK. It also runs great when I romp on it. I have a Holley carb and Pertronix Ignitor on a 455. <P>Don't know if this is related to the problem, but the tranny was just rebuilt. Would a vacuum leak or faulty modulator cause the stalling? My shift points are too high. I tried adjusting them via the modulator and it made no difference. I'm not too worried about the tranny problem right now, but I'd like to fix the stalling.<BR>Thanks!!<BR>baking<BR>
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I put a Transgo shift kit in my TH400. When you set it up you can select how you want it to shift by using different springs and such. Mine is set up now to shift normally when cruising and shift hard when I nail it. The kit came with instructions and a video.
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There is a 70 two door Electra being parted out on the GSCA board, it's in Oregon. Here's the link:<BR> <A HREF="http://www.buickgsca.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=16&t=000113" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buickgsca.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=16&t=000113</A>
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Did you ask the radiator place if they could fix it? I would think that would be a common repair for them.
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Stating the obvious here, I would be EXTREMELY careful welding a gas tank. <BR>
<P>Unless it was JB Weld.<BR> <P>Maybe fill it with water first, but I would think that would affect the welding.I think there are repair kits for gas tanks. I'm sure you'll get a good answer here from someone who actually knows what they're talking about. -
Don't know if this helps, but I put a 71 Lemans rear to replace the one in my 70 Buick. Both had the bolt-in axles, but the bearings were different and they were not interchangeable. I can't remember if that was the only difference or not. It should be relatively easy to check.<BR>brian
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I replaced all 4 springs on my 70 Skylark last fall. I ordered some from the local parts store, they came in way shorter than the originals, so I ordered some from a place that specializes in suspension parts. Their springs were way shorter too. I installed them and the car looks like it's at the factory height. Looks like NTX5467 is right, there are other things to consider than spring length. <P>When my car's on a lift the rear springs are loose. This made me nervous and I went round and round with the salesman I bought them from, and he said when the car's on the ground the suspension will never extend far enough for those springs to pop out. I sure hope he's right.
<BR>Brian -
I found a 92 and a 94 on a lot. The 94 has 100k and he wants $7500. The 92 has 140K and he wants $3,880. These seem to be typical prices around here. Both look to be in great shape, the 92 is missing a piece of molding, and the woodgrain is messed up in a couple places on both of them. He was closed when I stopped to look. The 92 *looks* like what I want. (at least it's in the price range) I'll probably go look at it and see how it runs and drives. I'm a little nervous about a 140,000 mile car........Thanks for all the replies!!<BR>
<BR>Brian -
Oops! Guess I wasn't very specific
.<BR>I don't want a banged up rust bucket, but it doesn't need to look showroom new, but presentable. I can handle a little flaking on the woodgrain. Sure, I'd prefer one without woodgrain, but it's not that big of deal. What's most important is it must ride and drive nice, have working air, heat, etc. This car will be my mule for work, vacations, around town trips etc. My work car gets driven about 23,000 miles a year. Looking to spend between $4-$5K since that's what my current car is worth and all my other car funds are tied up in my 70 Skylark.<BR>That probably limits my choices somewhat. -
Starting to look for a 90's Roadmaster wagon for a daily driver. Are there any years I should avoid? Most of the ones around here are over 100K miles, is that a big problem with these cars? Any expensive repairs that is a common problem?<BR>Thanks,<BR>Brian<BR>
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If you have a 70 Skylark make sure you don't have one where the carrier bearings are different sizes. If you do you will need to by a whole new rear end if you want to upgrade to a posi. I just went through this on my car and had to get a rear from a 71 Lemans at a junk yard. I bought an Auburn aftermarket posi that fits the 10 bolt rear.
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brblx,<BR>Sorry, can't help you with the seats but.....what kind of speaker do you have in your kick panel? Did you have to cut any metal behind the kick panel to install it?<P>Brian
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If getting them done in the US is your last resort, I would look at getting new wheels from Coker tire or WheelVintiques. <A HREF="http://www.cokertire.com" TARGET=_blank>www.cokertire.com</A> <BR>and <A HREF="http://www.wheelvintiques.com" TARGET=_blank>www.wheelvintiques.com</A> <BR>Here's a 15X8 Rallye from Coker tire:<BR>
$135 each. I would think getting new ones would be cheaper than rechroming and shipping them to and from the States. Plus, if your old wheels aren't too bad you can always sell them to offset the cost of the new ones. -
THANKS!!! That would be great!!<BR>baking@insightbb.com<BR>Brian
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Anybody have a picture or diagram of how vacuum lines are supposed to be routed on a 1970 GS 455? Our library only goes back to 1976.<BR>Thanks,<BR>Brian
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I don't have any way to reference this part number. Do you know about what years this is from? If it's the nameplate from a 70 Skylark I want it.<BR>Thanks,<BR>Brian King
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Make sure you ask what all is included in a kit. I bought a kit and it didn't come with everything needed to rebuild the whole front end. I *think* I had to buy the drag link and either the outer or inner tie rod ends, I forget which, but I know I had to buy some parts that weren't in the kit. I wanted to rebuild EVERYTHING while I was in there.
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Type out your VIN on a label maker and trace that.
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<A HREF="http://discussions.fordforums.com/index.php" TARGET=_blank>http://discussions.fordforums.com/index.php</A> <BR>and <A HREF="http://www.blueovalnews.com" TARGET=_blank>www.blueovalnews.com</A> <P>Mainly forums for newer Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, but they might have some info.....
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FWIW, if you want an inexpensive reader I got one of these at jeepersandcreepers.com. $135 and free shipping.......<BR>
<A HREF="http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/gear/pages/equus.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.jeepersandcreepers.com/gear/pages/equus.htm</A> -
I bought the hoods. I have them listed on Ebay now because I need to raise $$ for other parts I need. So far they are cheap. Auctions end tonite. Here are the listings: <A HREF="http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=baking" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=baking</A> <P>brian
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Just put some new springs on my 70 Skylark for the rear. After putting the new springs and new shocks on, I am able to turn/wiggle the springs by hand with the car up on a lift and the rear axle hanging down. Should they be able to be moved like that? The place I bought them from and a coworker of mine said it shouldn't be a problem. However, I would like to know your thoughts on if this is safe or not. The old springs were about a coil and a half longer and still fit tight when up on the lift. I don't plan on doing any Dukes of Hazzard jumps, but I want to be sure these springs are not gonna pop out if I hit a bump or go over RR tracks.
<BR>I haven't been able to set the car down and see if it sits level, because the axles are out because the differential got pooched which is another story....... 
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Steve,<P>What kind of shape are the hoods in? Are they rusted or dented, do they have the chrome on them?<P>Thanks,<BR>Brian<P>baking@home.com
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If he looks at it let me know what happens.<BR>Thanks<BR>
70 Skylark stalling...
in Buick - Performance and Modified
Posted
Thanks Scotts,<BR>That at least gives me a place to start!!<BR>Thanks again,<BR>Brian<P><BR>