Steve B

Some of the nailhead discussions I have seen put the Offy well behind the stock 2x4 manifold and the Edelbrock well above the stock 2x4. The B262 seems to be the one to have. The offy was said to be restrictive where it turns for the heads. Maybe someone has some flow #s, that is just what I have heard.

I am in the middle of that swap. I have all the parts, but have not finished it. My 66 GS came with a standard bell housing for the Nailhead. Well, at least I had the woman throw it in for a price when I bought it. <P>First of all, you will need the 65-66 Nailhead specific bell housing and Flywheel. That housing was made to fit a Borg Warner T-10 trans from those years. I was told that the Muncie M21 and M22 will also fit that housing, but I went with an original T-10 close ratio trans. You will need the pedal set up from a 64-66 GM A body car. I have heard that the pedals are cosmetically different in 67, but will work. You will need the clutch linkage for the 65-66 Nailhead. It is different from the other GM and Buick 3 and 4 speed set-ups. You will need a shifter. The OEM shifters were called mystery shifters because it was a mystery that it worked at all. Car Craft did an article on modifying available Hurst shifters to fit a 66 GS in the November, 2001 issue. I just happened to have a discontinued Hurst shifter that fit. I had saved it for about 15 years. You will need the longer solid standard shift driveshaft as well. The clutch pressure plate and disc are common and available through many sources. The throw out bearing is sort of special, but available. You will also need a bushing for the crank. The end of the trans shaft fits into the bushing. <P>I got a lot of my parts from Carmen Faso in NY, (716) 693-4090 . He is a wealth of information, and has saved truck loads of Nailhead parts. He likes to sell parts, whereas I like to horde them. It works for us, but you better step in before I have the truckloads of parts! I have seen several set-ups on Ebay also. Be prepared to pay. There were not a lot of these Nailhead set-ups made. It will happen if you want it to: Good Luck.<p>[ 12-09-2001: Message edited by: Steve B ]

A good Nailhead curve is 18*-20* of mechanical advance at the crank all in by 2800-3000 rpm. Most good speed shops have a distributor machine that will allow them to curve your distributor to those specifications for $30-$50. Then you would run 12*-14* initial advance for a total of about 32* of advance with the vacuum advance disconnected and the source plugged. Find the initial advance that seems to run best when road tested (no ping- most go). Then reconnect the vacuum advance after you have found the best initial advance setting. Pinging would be the sign of too much advance. If there is too much advance when the vacuum advances is connected after the best initial advance is established, an adjustable vacuum advance may be needed. In the meantime you can run without the vacuum advance, but there will be a loss of 1-3 MPG. I hope that was helpful.

I don't think there was an aftermarket 401/425 single 4 bbl manifold. At least I am not aware of one. That means your choices are either the stock square bore or the Q-jet manifold. The square bore fits some aftermarket carbs (Carter, Edelbrock) and can be adapted to fit a variety of carbs. Well, there had been adapters available in the late 80s anyway. I like the Q-jet as it is a factory fit, there is no adapter involved, and the Q-jet gets good milasge if you can stay off the gas. I do have to say that my 63 Riv ran pretty strong with a 750 Holley adapted to the square bore. I will try both on my 66 GS at the track at some point, but I currently have no hard data.<p>[ 12-02-2001: Message edited by: Steve B ]

some pictures of where to find the codes are here: <A HREF="http://www.buicks.net/shop/engine_ident.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buicks.net/shop/engine_ident.html</A> <P>The codes are still a work in progress!

Devon,<P>Whats up with the 8th light thing?

Here's a pretty one. Couldn't tell you how original it is:<BR> <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598211773" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598211773</A>

LT was stamped on the 401s not in the GS in 65. I have a LT in the 66 GS, but keep it quiet. I painted it red and it thinks it's an MR now. <BR>

<A HREF="http://buickgsca.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro" TARGET=_blank>http://buickgsca.com/cgi-bin/ubb/Ultimate.cgi?action=intro</A>

Rich,<P>The vin has to start with 44467. This denotes it as a V8 Skylark convertible. That will at least rule out that it is a converted Special or V6 Skylark.<P>The engine will have two sets of numbers stamped on the valley pan rail on the front of the block. LR stamped upside-down (as viewed from the front) on the passenger side of the pan rail designates it as a 1965 Gran Sport 400 (401) engine. The numbers on the other side will match the last 8 numbers of the serial number on the door frame. This way you would know it is a Gran Sport engine in the original car. <P>The transmission will be a ST 300, and the model for the Gran Sport had NK stamped on the lower servo cover. The last two digits of the year will be stamped above the NK. <P>The rear axle ratio will be 3.08 in a automatic Gran Sport unless it was special ordered. <P>Most of this information is from my 65 Buick Service Manual - Skylark Gran Sport: All Models. It is consistent with the numbers on my 65 Gran Sport. I think this should keep you out of trouble.

There should be a two letter code stamped into the surface of the block on the front valley pan rail of the passenger side sort of under the thermostat housing. The first letter denotes the year and the second size of the engine. There are also eight numbers on the other side of the pan rail that match the last numbers of serial # of the car. The serial numbers won't help you with much more than if the engine in the car is original.

Gary,<P>The 262 is not currently available. I have only seen one (got to touch it too). That was Bob Quigg's manifold. It was at the shop of the head porter that did my Nailhead porting. There are a group of people (myself included) that are writing and emailing Edelbrock to request the remanufacture of the B262. One guy from the Nailhead site even offered to use his 262 as a pattern because Edelbrock said they could not find the 262 molds.<P>There is more information including the Edelbrock address on the following thread: <A HREF="http://www.buicks.net/forum/Forum7/HTML/000011.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buicks.net/forum/Forum7/HTML/000011.html</A> . The email address for Edelbrock is: edelbrock@edelbrock.com .<P>That's probably more than you wanted to know!

64,65,66 Nailheads in the Electra and Riv had a ST 400. The 65 and 66 were a variable pitch design. You will have to do some work to get it to fit a pre 1964 364, 401 or 425. The crank flange and cut out where the trans rides in the crank are larger on the pre 1964 engines. The flange will need to be trimed on the crank and you will need a bushing inside the crank end to support the trans end in the crank. You will need a post 63 flexplate as the ring gear is on the converter on the Dynaflow , and on the flexplate after 63. You could also enlarge the hole on the latter flexplate if you do not want to cut the crank flange down. It is also suggested that the rotating assembly be balanced to the new flexplate on the older engine. Carmen Faso had some of the bushings you will need. He is at (716) 693-4090. That is the least you are in for. Good luck in whatever you decide.

Are the frame mounts for the engine in a 65 Skylark the same for a V6 and a 300? <BR> <BR>Thanks

OK, the 65 Chassis Service Manual says:<P>Dwell - 30* (set first at idle in park).<P>Timing - 2 1/2* (in drive with parking brake and blocks at 550 rpm with vacuum advance disconnected).<P>Spark Plugs - .035 gap.

Give us the two lettter code on the front valley pan rail from the passenger side. That wii tell us the year and size.

Roadmaster,<P>Camshaft selection is dependent on, or can dictate, engine modification and air flow, the rear gear, the stall of the converter, the weight of the car and your performance usage (land speed records or quarter mile improvement). TA performance, Poston, Kenne Bell and J&Cs parts all have tech help and camshafts. Go to the following forum and read about half-way down for a list of parts providers and tech #s: <A HREF="http://www.buicks.net/forum/Forum1/HTML/000622.html" TARGET=_blank>http://www.buicks.net/forum/Forum1/HTML/000622.html</A> . J&Cs # is (716) 693-4090. <P>As a rule, you need more stall in a converter as the cam has more lift and duration, and more lift and duration generally makes more power. A higher stall makes the transmission less efficient at low RPM. In a way it slips somewhat until a given RPM is reached. Under wide-open throttle conditions, this allows the converter to slip up (flash stall) close to the RPM where the cam makes peak torque in the engine. That will get the whole combination moving faster. The bigger cams do not usually run well at a low rpm so a higher stall also allows a higher idle in gear. <P>Your rear gear may be limited to 3.42. I think that was the highest that were readily available for the early Riv. I corresponded with someone that had a 9" ford rear welded up to fit in an early Riv if price is no object.<P>Headers are not currently available for the Nailhead Riv. There are flange kits available, but no headers. TA Performance is said to be coming out with some shortly. The GSCA headers for the Skylark were good for a .4 second improvement on a 401in the quarter mile. A good 2.5" exhaust would help with headers, but would also need to be fabricated. <P>The Edelbrock B262 is the 2x4 intake to be had, but are hard to find. The stock 66 Q-jet manifold and Q-jet are reported to be only .1 second slower in the quarter than the B262 on a mid 11 second Nailhead. <P>The MSD 6AL or a Hyfire IV ignition box would provide protection from over-reving. Mallory is coming out with a Unilight for the Nailhead. I think TA Performance has it. J&Cs Parts can provide a rebuilt distributor with a magnetic trigger for either ignition box.<P>This has probably raised more questions than it answered, but I think that is the sign of a good question.

Try Classic Buicks <A HREF="http://www.classicbuicks.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.classicbuicks.com/</A>, or TA performance at 480-922-6808, or Poston Enterprises at 800-635-9781, or Carmen at J&Cs Parts at 716-693-4090.<p>[ 09-28-2001: Message edited by: Steve B ]

I would bet you could get a commitment for many more 262s from the Nailhead people at: <A HREF="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BuickNailHead" TARGET=_blank>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BuickNailHead</A>

Count me in for one!

<A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595525330" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595525330</A>

I see I gave you the wrong year. Here are the 65 425 #s from the same article:<P>Part # 1368091<BR>Shank # 1362241<BR>Exhaust Duration 299*<BR>Exhaust Lift .441<BR>Intake Duration 290*<BR>Intake Lift .439<BR>Lobe Sep. 109*<BR>Overlap 77*

Here is what I have for the 66 425 from an old Dennis Manner article in the GS-X-tra:<P>Part # 1368090<BR>Shank # 1362241<BR>Exhaust Duration 295*<BR>Exhaust Lift .431<BR>Intake Duration 295*<BR>Intake Lift .431<BR>Lobe Sep. 114*<BR>Overlap 67*

400, 430 and 455 wil also bolt up, but durability would be questionable.

Why don't you give Carmen a call. He knows his nailheads and is usually very helpful. If he rebuilt the carb for you, I am sure he will want to help you get it right.