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ezdusit

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Posts posted by ezdusit

  1. The confusion may have to do with nomenclature. There were no postwar cars with the name Zephyr on their badges. The "plain jane" Lincolns were badged as Lincolns. But in the Zephyr club, we consider all cars built on the HV-12 chassis to be part of the Lincoln-Zephyr "family." Thus, although there were officially no postwar Zephyrs, we continue to call the Lincolns built in 46-47-48 "Zephyrs."

  2. Ray,

    I just saw your message on the forum. I'm usually quick to post ads on the Website for club members and I answer my emails promptly. However, my guess is that your email got scrubbed by my spam software. I get about 300 spam messages per day because my email address is on the Web site. If you will email me your request again, and put LZOC somewhere in the subject line, your request should get through. Sorry for the inconvenience.

  3. Thanks for your kind thoughts. We've met a lot of wonderful people since we took on our jobs with the club. It's very rewarding, but we still appreciate the "attaboy" once in a while. And our best wishes to you all for a safe, healthy holiday season and new year!

    Bob and Margo

  4. I've had outstsnding results from Metal Finishing, Inc., 3901 E. 26th St., Indianapolis, IN 46218. Their phone number is 317-546-9004. I dealt with Damian and received excellent service and unbelievable quality. Good luck!

  5. When I restored my '32 Plymouth, I bought a 6-volt, positive ground alternator from

    David Soltow

    Yesteryear Antique

    P.O.Box 511

    Blue Island, IL 60406

    You might want to contact him for help in your situation. He seemed very helpful at the time I dealt with him.

  6. I was just at the LZOC meet in Arkansas, and Jake Fleming talked about this very problem in his technical presentation. He talked about a generator shop in Tulsa that revamps our Lincoln generators to be 4-pole rather than 2-pole. He also talked about running a separate ground strap to get better grounding. You might want to drop him a line. He has no email, but his address is in the directory. Good luck.

  7. For what it's worth -- I had Gas Tank Renu do a tank for me five years ago. They did an outstanding job on a really rusty tank. It looked new when I got it back, it still looks new, and I've never picked up a speck of rust in the filter. The one I used was outside of Houston and I would recommend them to anyone. They were professional in every aspect of the transaction, even suggesting how I pack and ship the "irreplaceable" tank.

  8. I don't think you'll find anyone with pre-cut glass. If they have an original replacement, the plastic layer will have clouded or gotten bubbles by now. Your best bet is to take it to a glass shop that specializes in automotive glass.

  9. Keith,<BR>I can't answer all the questions, but here's a start... The difference between the Zephyrs and the Continentals in the years ('40 and '41) when aluminum heads were still in use, was that the Continental heads were polished. To the best of my knowledge, the displacement was always the same between the Zephyr and the Continental within the same model year.

  10. Bill, As a reference, you might want to look at the two 1940 unrestored sedans listed in the pre-war classifieds on the LZOC Web site. They're priced at $3,500 and $6,000. Keep in mind, of course, that those are asking prices. Good luck! If you buy the car and aren't an LZOC member, please join us...

  11. Ed,<BR>I suggest you contact Ed Spagnolo at Color-ite Refinishing Co. in Bethany, CT. Ed's a long-time member of the club and an expert on Zephyr/Continental paint and colors. His number is (203) 393-0240. Good luck!

  12. Dale,<BR>The club did publish an Authenticity Manual for several years. It has been out of print for the last four or five years while it was being rewritten. It is likely that the new, improved edition won't be available for a few more months. Earle Brown has reprinted the original one and it looks like an excellent copy (He had some for sale at the Harrisburg Swap Meet.). I suggest you contact Earle. He has an ad in our directory and also is on line at <A HREF="http://www.lzoc.org/Sources/brown.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.lzoc.org/Sources/brown.htm</A> <P>Good luck (And congratulations!!!).

  13. Some shops used shims like this for a number of reasons, for example, to make extra clearance if the only available bearings were too much undersize for the crankshaft journal. The idea is to provide clearance. The problem is that the "hole" is no longer round. As soon as shims are used, the hole is oblong. Sometimes the shims are put between the bearing cap and the bearing insert to make the hole smaller, but the same problem occurs -- it becomes an oval rather than a circle. Some manufacturers made tapered shim material that was a ribbon, thicker in the middle and thinner on the sides, to try and correct this problem. In any event, it's not a good practice to use shims, even though it was often done in the past. A properly ground shaft riding in properly sized and correctly aligned bearings is the right way to build (or rebuild) an engine.

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