WQ59B
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Posts posted by WQ59B
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On my '59 Invicta- someone had eliminated the heater control valve and fasioned an elbow so it was always open (coolant flow). Managed to find another one- there seem to be 100s of slightly different ones, mostly the portion that interfaces with the controls. A '60 Pontiac one I have on hand is noticably different there.
Just got off the phone with Jim Tucker @ heatercontrolvalve.com
I had been trying to reach him by phone for a number of weeks, today he stated he would not be able to do any rebuilds soon or in the near future, that he wasn't well. I believe he is around 80 yrs of age. He advised to watch eBay for replacement seals.
I've seen the one NAPA replacement seal, but there is another one that seals the water flow off... have not yet learned to what degree they interchange (Ranco <> Harrison).
Any further info on Harrison control valve parts/rebuilds would be appreciated; going to tackle this job myself.
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Have been manning 'The Pontiac Dealer Database' group on Facebook a few months now, focusing on photos & locations, if anyone wants to check it out.
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Pic is from 'Young's Lubricants'- a Pennsylvania company started in 1890 (still in business). They captioned the pic '1910'- but who knows if that's the year of the photo or the truck. It appear that the central wheel is the drive wheel. Are those large springs linked toward the front axle? Any ideas/info on a make or would this have been home-built? Certainly unique.
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On 3/25/2011 at 4:35 AM, Guest said:
Lets see, All 59 GM products use a X frame. Cadillac, Buick, Olds have added side rails for better side impact protection. The Chevy is a front steer compared to rear steer on Pontiac/Olds and Cadillac--not sure about Buick. Front steer without a collapsible steering column will shove that dash and steering wheel into the driver. The Chevy core support compared to a Pontiac/Olds/Cad--not sure about Buick is half the width and not braced.
I realize this thread is currently 12 years old, but I just read it through, so; the facts are worthy of setting straight.
'59 GM Divisions each engineered their own chassis's. They are NOT "all X-frame".
Chevy's X-frame is noticeably weaker than Pontiac's (similar but not identical) X-frame; thinner/smaller reinforcement, notably lesser, non-continuous welds). I owned a bare '60 Pontiac frame and compared it to '59 Impala convertible frame pics- Chevy put thinner bracing at the X-joint, in 2 pieces and not wrapped around onto the sides.
Olds used a (similar but not identical) X-frame with side rails.
Buick had an extremely strong, fully-boxed perimeter frame. To wit:
'59 Impala V8 4-dr hardtop shipping weight : 3625
'59 Buick LeSabre V8 4-dr hardtop shipping weight : 4266. The bulk of that weight difference was in the chassis. That's a lot of steel reinforcement. -
9771xxx is a '63 (and later) part number (on the instruction sheet for the template).
I have this exact same box/emblem, my grandfather told me it came out of his '57 Star Chief (...but he also had a '63 and a '66).
The design is definitely earlier than '63, I'd say very late '50s, but obviously the template may change as the dash did.
983xxx is not a Pontiac-sequence number, but perhaps GM accessories used a different system. -
Great info!
Is there any difference in the horn relay between 2-note and 4-note set-ups?
I'm going to combine '72 Riviera trumpet & mid-note horns with '59 H/L seashells. After adjusting them, I've direct-wired them and did a quick test and they sounded great... but my car's original harness is gone, and I need to pick up a relay (I believe). Any advice greatly appreciated. -
I came at the same issue the other way; I've owned my Invicta coupe for 33 years, and I have most of what I need but am still looking for a few items.
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Did you just buy that table full of parts from classicnosparts - they're the same pics.
I'm looking for a few bits for my Invicta if you had extras / not-needed pieces. -
Circa '82, I had to pass on a black '59 Biarritz with a white top and white buckets. It was very solid & I believe it ran. $1000 (or $1200). Didn't have anywhere near the coin then (I was 16).
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18 minutes ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
---Make a wide variety of vehicles--cars and trucks
in various sizes. Don't forget convertibles and
two-door hardtops. Not everyone wants a sedan.
---Keep the mechanical aspects as simple as possible.
Enthusiasts may want to work on their own cars.
---Forget your obsession with blandness. Some
people want more than black, white, or gray.
Offer the 15 or 20 colors you used to, so people
can individualize their cars and take pride in them.
Don't forget more interior offerings, too.
I agree... but practically no OEMs actually do these.
Random example : MB E-class : 1 red, 1 blue, 2 whites, 2 blacks, 5 grays.
Tesla Model S : white, black, gray, blue, red. -
In the early '90s I was daily driving a '64 389 Catalina. When I got it then, it was a 69K mile car. I put 25K miles on it in 2 years, and never had to add oil in between. Changed the oil/filter I believe around the 3000-mile mark.
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Sealed the building. 2 years now- zero mice.
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Bumping for any new eyes ...
Circa 2005 isn't that long ago. I still find it surprising the fate of this concept is unknown.
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Data plate has a 'D' in the style number for a CdV : '6237DX'.
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Nothing carrying over from '59 electrically or carb-wise.
Have looked at switches online for a half hour or so- seems the only way to be sure is to hold one in hand and see if it works in the dash panel.
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Buick went to key start in '61.
A '61-62 Buick switch/bezel may be the closest... tho I still may have an issue fitting in behind the B-59 dash.
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I have to upgrade my B-59's ignition. Thru '60, Buick had the gas pedal-activated starter, so the ignition key only has 3-positions (LOCK-ON-OFF) and the switch is a 3-prong piece. The switch is proprietary to B-59; the way it mounts to the dash panel & the fact that it fits in a narrow nacelle behind the dash. As I have changed the engine & no longer have that feature, I need at least a 4-position key... but I still want to put it in the same location on the factory dash.
I have a used '60 Pontiac cylinder/switch on hand. Cylinders are the same on a long range of GMs but the switches are different. P-60 switch is a pudgy devil, with a lit ring around the keyhole (and the accompanying light housing), and a 7-pin switch. Even if I cut the tab that locates the light housing to a dash panel (after which it MAY fit the nacelle), the chrome bezel doesn't cover the hole in the B-59 panel.
I've always loved the '60s Pontiac lit rings around the key. I've seen early Riv switches that show a light housing on the backside- did they light simply shine thru the keyhole?
There are a hundred period switched out there, I have no idea where to start or what I need. Has anyone changed over from a gas pedal-starter Buick to a turn key start ignition? Any suggestion where to start for a substitution?
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I'm getting the general idea here, but going to ask this specifically, based on my hazy memory.
Is there any way that what's outlined below weighs ONLY 316 lbs?
I am 85% sure I didn't disassemble it, all I probably did was pop the tires off to weigh it.
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Specifically: 1959, but any in that era that didn't feature major changes.
Was interested in the torque tube itself and the internals/driveshaft. Not including the rear axle.
Looking thru my notes this morning, I see I recorded a weight for the rear axle/ Panhard bar out of my car; 316 lbs.
1. I swear I never separated the TorqueTube from the axle. Sold it and the buyer put it on a small 'lawn tractor' trailer whole- axle, TT and control arms. This would've been over 20 years ago. That's my recollection. However;2. I have no scale on site that clears 300 lbs, so maybe I DID separate things??
A. I should've written down "axle/Panhard/TT" but only wrote the first 2 components.
B. I'm recording weights as I change components, want to make sure I didn't forget to include the TorqueTube weight too.-
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Anyone happen to know the weight of a complete Buick TorqueTube assembly, everything between the trans & the rear axle?
60 Electra Heater Control Valve
in Buick - Post War
Posted · Edited by WQ59B (see edit history)
Ebay has a Ranco seal kit [ https://www.ebay.com/itm/363254176387?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D38c79d2608c44c19a6cabebe33b49fcc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D363254176387%26itm%3D363254176387%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042 ]
but so far, I've not found if it interchanges with Harrison. Certainly looks like the same pieces, and they have 2 different size plunger seals- may take a shot & rebuild mine myself.
Yeah- using 60-yr old NOS rubber (on anything) seems ridiculous to me if it's under any type of exposure or pressure- I would never use a 60-yr old brake hose, for example.