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shart

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Posts posted by shart

  1. Monday 12-11. I looked in three boxes in my crawl space. The only wiring I have is the flat ribbon cable that runs underneath the carpeting from inside the firewall (I think) down the center of the floor to the back end of the car. I'm not finding any of the engine wiring. I think it was cut when the the person who bought the engine yanked it out. I do have a few boxes of parts behind the car on shelves I can't get to but I doubt the wiring is there from what I could see without moving the car. Sorry I couldn't help. Let me know if there is anything else you need. I saw an emergency brake cable and other mechanical and interior parts in the boxes as well as what I mentioned in an earlier message. 

  2. I might have this. I have three boxes of a variety of 65 Electra parts left over from a parts car I had for the resto of my Electra. Monday the 11th is a warmer day so I'll check those boxes to see if I have it and let you know. Anything else you need for your car? Here is a quick rundown of what I have in the boxes when I checked recently.

    Door hinges; interior trim pieces like the chrome piece at the end of the instrument panel for both sides; the plastic fresh air vent assembly both sides (black); some long, thin chrome piece could be a door edge guard; some of the thick diecast side chrome; complete brake backing plate with shoes and whl cyl attached; many other pieces I’d have to identify after unloading all three boxes. 12-7, looked again. Saw window tracks, side window channels with fuzzy inserts. chrome vertical pieces for the back of the vent wing window trim on the outside.

  3. Mr Earl, I have the twin to your 5-gallon can. I bought it for $50 back in 1995 at the Chgo national meet swap in Lisle.

    When the vendor told me the price I about ripped my pocket off getting to my money clip. Here's a few more from my garage collection. Not be to outdone by the Special Buick oil for Dynaflow drive I have some full cans of the Synchromesh Transmission Lubricant for Buick Special! So there!

    Buick 5-gallon can_1.jpg

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    Buick corner shelf_2.jpg

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    • Like 5
  4. The wheel bearings and race on both sides look new. I cleaned all thoroughly

    and re-packed. Have not balanced tires but swapped RF to LF with no 

    change in symptoms. I believe the tires are quite old but they look great.

    Lester 6-ply bias whitewalls. Car doesn't wander with my hands off the wheel at low speed just coasting. Front components are unknown. When we 

    grabbed the LF tires at 900 and 300 it wiggles a little right to left. RF

    does not. Does this indicate a bad king pin or what? Could a bad 

    king pin cause the wild pulling the left when brakes are applied?

  5. Guys, I have a problem with my newly rebuilt brake system that I can’t solve.

    Prior to the rebuild the car pulled fairly strongly to the left every time the brakes were applied. It got progressively worse as I drove the car at low speeds close to my home. I purchased the car during the summer of 2020. It always pulled to the left but got progressively worse as I drove it sparingly. Beginning in late July this year I started rebuilding the brakes. I had no info from the previous owner to go by so I was starting from a clean slate. I replaced all four wheel cylinders with NOS, NORS cylinders or kits from Buick vendors we’re all familiar with. I took apart and cleaned the one or two NOS cylinders that were stuck slightly from shelf life cleaning them thoroughly before installing them. Two new front brake hoses installed. New brake springs all four corners. Cleaned all surfaces with brake cleaner. What I found was fluid that was a normal, clean color, no visible particles or crystallization or muck one usually finds with brakes that have sit unused for a long time. The shoes all around looked virtually new requiring very little sanding and cleaning. Same for the drums. None felt or looked like they needed to be turned. Decision was made to use the drums and shoes as is. Also there were no visible brake leaks anywhere in the system prior to this. I did have to replace the back shoes because I found a hairline crack in one of the shoes on one side. A rear set ordered and installed on the rear. Because of the clean nature of the fluid and wheel cylinders I opted to not remove or rebuild the master cylinder. The flexible hose at the rear of the cylinder also looked shiny and new so it was left in place.

    We bled the brakes in the order stated in the shop manual (twice) which went well. I have a good pedal and the E-brake works well. Shoes on each wheel were adjusted as evenly as we could. Our first test drive was exactly the same as before the rebuild. When the brakes are applied lightly or normally the steering wheel pulls out of my hands if I don’t hold onto it. Our second attempt to correct this was today, 9-14-22. We removed the two front drums one at a time. With one drum off we slowly bled that wheel cylinder while I pressed on the pedal. No air, just a steady flow of fluid like previously. Then we did the same on the other side. We then discovered that the eccentric at the top of each front brake assembly should be adjusted (up and down only) so that the shoes are centered as closely as possible with the drum. We did that on both sides by observing the distance between the shoes and the drum through the sight hole in the drum and by feel. Then we re-adjusted the bottom adjustment so that the right amount of drag was attained on both front brake assemblies. We took a test ride today and we experienced the same pull to the left when the brakes were applied. My friend, an experienced

    car mechanic (both vintage and new professionally) and retired aircraft mechanic is

    out of ideas and so am I. What’s are our next steps in your opinion to solve this

    dilemma?

     

  6. I found this item in my house. I don't recall where I got it but there were ends of two former red heater hoses attached to both of the inlets. There is a flow or shut-off valve on it as well. The only identifying number on it is 22K63. There are no threads or obvious attaching points if it is for a motor vehicle. Round part diameter including the flange is 3 inches. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks!

    Auto water valve_3.jpg

    Auto water valve_1.jpg

    Auto water valve_2.jpg

  7. For Sale: 1960 Buick Electra Model 4719 four-door sedan. Original 27,253 miles. PS, PB, P Seats. White top, Blue and white body. Beautiful car inside and out. Runs perfectly. Everything works. Babied by long-time BCA member in Northern California last 6 years. $25,000. Send me PM with your email address and phone for more photos and owners contact info. I will pass on your info to owner so he knows to expect your call or email.

    I’m doing this as a favor for my long-time friend who is not as computer-literate as I am.

    Webmaster, please don’t delete this ad. Thank you!

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    • Like 6
  8. I have quite a few older ATHS WOT and Diamond T Register Salmagundi magazines from when I belonged to those organizations. I hate to throw them out or recycle them. I've run an ad offering them for sale in Vintage Truck magazine with no response. I'm willing to give them away if the person who wants them (all) preferably wants to pay for the postage. If interested send me a PM and I'll send a list. Some of the ATHS mags are in nice ATHS purpose-made binders.

    Thanks!

    IMG_20210516_122703293.jpg

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