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John N. Packard

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Posts posted by John N. Packard

  1. Frank,

    I checked in the Restoration Specialties catalog and they have four thicknesses of the plain rubber as well as the cork/rubber tape. I measured my channel and glass and selected the tape thickness on the basis of one-half the difference between the two. I don't know if the cork/rubber has a linen backing. I wonder if the cork would absorb the oil and swell to make a tight fit?

    jnp

  2. What I have is the black rubber. Perhaps I should get the cork type. The original seemed to have a thin linen liner in addition to the rubber. It is pretty well shot and difficult to tell. Thanks for your help!

    jnp

  3. One layer of tape is not going to be enough. The glass slides in real easy. So I guess I should use multiple layers? I have a GM body manual from the late thirties that talks about using motor oil to swell the tape resulting in a tight fit. At $100 plus a pop, I'd do it myself too!

    jnp

  4. I'll be there on Thursday for the AACA Library & Research Center Board meeting and again on Saturday for the car show. Expect that there will be a good flea market as well.

    jnp

  5. Diz,

    Thanks for your reply. After struggling with the unit for about a day I decided to pull the clutch off a spare motor that I have. I discovered that the unit I have been working on is rebuilt. The spare motor had the original clutch. The driven plate is different on the rebuilt unit. It has a higher hub. I cleaned up the spare and checked it out and got the correct measurement of 1.125" inches from the finger contact surfaces to the driven plate hub. I think the rebuilt unit that I was struggling with is for a later model application that uses a different pedal linkage. The fingers do adjust; but there was insufficient length to achieve the recommended setting. I think I'm good to go with the spare unit. I'll now have the clutch facings replaced and reinstall the unit.

    jnp

  6. I'm working on the clutch for my 1940 Packard 110. The shop manual states: "The distance from the front face of the plate hub to the rear face of the levers where they contact the throwout bearing should be 1.125 inches. This dimension is set at the factory but should be checked on all clutch rebuilding jobs." My problem is that this dimension is much less than the amount specified; so I am not able to adjust the pedal to disengage the clutch. The manual specifies no way to correct the problem. I am measuring the distance from the top surface of the levers where they contact the throwout bearing to the top surface of the hub (not the clutch plate surface) with the plate compressed to be flush with the mounting flange of the housing. I've checked the springs, which should yield 158 to 168 lbs pressure at 1&9/16 inch. They measure somewhat less than that; but all within a few pounds of each other. Anyone with clutch rebuilding experience that can help?

    jnp

    <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

  7. Wayne,

    Yes, we received the application from the individual in California and he is now a member of the region. The Northern Neck'n News goes to our circulation manager, so I'll check with him to see your jab! It was good to see Vogel and Ashburn at our flea market a few weeks ago.

    jnp

  8. Clipper47,

    I've never heard of such a book. I suspect that PAC judging standards apply uniformly to all models. I've only been judged once at a PAC meet with no expectation of winning anything. Unlike AACA judging, PAC checked that all lights, etc. were operational. I believe that the AACA judging manual is now available for viewing on-line. Expect marque club judging to be more critical because they are more knowledgeable of your vehicle.

    jnp

  9. Tom,

    I have a '52 200 that I drove as a second car commuting 50 miles to work. It replaced a VW bus in which I froze driving in the winter. My car is really rough now because it sat outside for years; but I now have it under cover. I did a valve, ring, and rod bearing replacement and then drove it for 60K miles. It has a '53 288 engine with standard transmission that the previous owner installed. I have a 327 engine with automatic that I might someday install. I should have some interchange part numbers in my notes somewhere for the car. It has a grille from a '51. The entire car is in pretty rough condition. The '51-'54 shop manual will help you a lot. Reproductions are available from the Packard Club and literature vendors. I have an original from Max Merritt that I bought some 30 years ago. I'll be glad to help you, if I can.

    jnp

  10. At our Chesapeake Region meeting this past Monday we saw a video of an early fifties Daytona Beach race. There was a '51 Packard competing. Anyone have information on this car or driver? Just curious.

    jnp

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