Howard
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Posts posted by Howard
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10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, Happy 2008. May the upcoming year be a great one for each of my Reatta friends. Be safe tonight.
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Well, I bet Santa is polishing up his sleigh, checking his list (I hope all you guys/gals are on his "good" list) one final time, and briefing all the reindeer on world wide weather conditions. To everybody, may I extend the warmest holiday greetings to you and your families. May all of your Christmas dreams come true.
Peace,
Howard
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Barney, thanks. I laughed out load. Merry Christmas to all.
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First, welcome aboard. Glad to have you as a new member. I've been a member here for a number of years and if I had to choose the most recurring problem, the panel lights would be very high on the list. The first thing I want you to do is place the car in a dark garage. If you don't have a garage, place a book on the top center of the dash. There are small slots sort of near the windshield, be sure they are covered. The car has a photo cell that control the panel lights. Once that is done, turn your key "on" and press the fog light switch. Do not turn on headlight switch. Does your CRT and Speedometer dim? If not, move the slide switch under the headlight "off" button back and forth. Does the CRT and Speedometer dim now? If the answer is yes to either question, the problem is the headlight switch. There is a cure that works most of the time. Note I said most of the time, sometimes the switch does have to be replaced. Get a can of WD40, some state that contact cleaner should be used but many such compounds damage the plastic. Make sure the WD 40 can has the little spray tube. With the spray tube inserted between the slots in the switch, spray a very small amount of WD40 while pressing the buttons off and on. Do this on all the buttons on the headlight pod. That should fix your problem. If your CRT and Speedometer did not dim when turning on your fog lights, then the photo cell is shot. Report back your results.
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Welcome, welcome, welcome. The Reatta is truly a great little car. You have found the correct spot to have your questions answered. I have two items of advice to offer, first, take the brake test, if your car is a 90 or older. Second, find a shop manual, they appear on eBay from time to time. Heck, they still may be purchased from Helm, the original publisher, I'm not sure. Anyway, welcome aboard the "R" train.
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For those of you who can't download the article but would like to read it, there is hope. Around Thanksgiving time 2002 I, along with another forum member, typed out the entire article. Actually, to be honest, I used voice activated software, but it took a while none the less. It was over several days, but if you go to the Search feature and type in Automobile Quarterly (in title and body) and let it sort older than 7 years, you will find the pages. The text is the entire article. Sorry, there are no scans for pictures.
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Welcome Brent. I don't think GM services that part any longer. The forum has a longtime member that sells "pre used" parts. His name is Jim Finn. I have always found him to be very helpful and his prices down to earth. Send him an email: jfinn@cpinternet.com I bet he can fix you up in no time.
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John, I did receive the injectors that were so kindly given me by Larry. I don't see any part numbers, but they look like these:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detail...VU32-11139.html
It would be a while before I would be able to take any pictures, so I hope this might help you out. The seal kit that was sent, is a Sorensen # 800-9220
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Nic, Harbor Freight is a neat place. The company I work for buys a lot of tools and stuff there. Great prices. Warning, if you are a fix it guy (or Tammy) you can't go in and not buy something, so bring your wallet (or purse).
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Man, the folks here are just great. People I don't know personally, going much out of the way to help a fellow Reatta owner. I don't think that would happen on any other forum. Thanks so much Blazer. Just for the record, I did offer to pay for them. I don't want members to think I'm a freeloader
. Nic. I may still need some help. Viking's post was helpful, but I just want to change one of the offending injectors. I'm not sure the rail will lift in such a way that I can get to just the one, next to the firewall on passenger side. Anyway before it's over, I still might need some info. Even after the change is done, I'm not sure if my problem will be solved. It just hit me that maybe one of the injectors was stuck open causing a rich mixture. Such a case might be causing carbon on the 02 sensor, causing a false reading and poor gas mileage. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm wondering if I will have to change the 02 sensor again, or if the heat caused by a correctly running engine will burn off the carbon. Also following Phillips advise, I should change the plugs. I really hate those next to the firewall. They are very hard to reach.
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Thanks guys. I've never changed an injector before. The shop manual did not really say anything about it. Seems simple enough. Ron, no the car shuts down as it should. I don't notice any smoke pre se, but there is a black spot on my garage door where the car's exhaust pipe is located. I have a habit of starting my car, then opening the door. In fact, the car runs great. If not for the check engine light going off then on then off and the bad mileage, you would never know anything is amiss. I did have the "cat" replaced a little over a year ago, so I don't think there is any back pressure. The car runs really well. Phillip, I really should change all the plugs. It has been a long time since they were changed. The front ones are a snap, the rear, a b--ch. I hate the ones next to the firewall. Whether the injector is my issue, I don't know. I know all of the injector are making a strong clicking noise, except one. It's located rear bank on the passenger side. The O2 sensor is covered in thick soot and the old girl is getting Hemi SUV gas mileage. I hope I can resolve this problem myself without taking to the shop. The last time I was unable to come up with a self cure, it cost me big $$$$$$$$$$$$$'s. As always, thanks to everyone who chimed in. Larry, I've sent you an email.
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My Reatta has had a problem of late setting codes regarding the O2 sensor and getting very poor gas mileage. I replaced the O2 sensor and discovered that it was carboned over. It hit me that the engine was running "rich" to have caused carbon on the 02 sensor. Also a rich running engine burns more fuel. Maybe a stuck injector would cause such an issue. I thought I would try something. I removed the plastic engine cover exposing the injectors. With a stethoscope, I listened to each injector. Each, save one, gave a very clear clicking noise. I unplugged the offending injector wire and attached it to an old injector I had saved some years ago. In my hand, the old injector returned a solid "click". Hence, there was not a wiring issue. I think I have a stuck open injector perhaps causing my problems. I would like to install a new injector, but I'm not sure how to go about it. Unless I'm missing something, the shop manual really does not go into any detail. The manual only mentions that the fuel rails are under pressure. How do you properly change an injector? Also, does my theory make any sense?
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Scott, yes when the doors open, the underdash lights and the door mounted lights do turn on. Also, the light in the headliner turns on as well. The dash mounted switch does control them. To turn on the lights with the switch, make sure you are pushing the switch with just a little force. At the very end of the travel you will note a very slight click when press into place (at least on my car), that's when the lights turn on. Do they come on at all?
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Well once again as in many years past, it is my honor to wish each and everyone of you a very Happy Thanksgiving. I know it's a little early, but this is the last evening I will be home for a few days. When I leave work tomorrow afternoon, I'm on my way to visit friends in Hot Spring Arkansas. No, I won't be driving my Reatta. Until I find the cause of the very poor gas mileage and the O2 sensor issue, my Reatta will not be going on any long trips. I hope all of you get to have fun with friends and family during this special time of year. To Robert in the "north", I know Canada has already had it's feast, but happy turkey day anyway
Be safe. Be kind. Be happy. Be not too much of an over eater.
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Before questioning my statement, please refer to section 6E3 A 28 Chart A5 Driveability and Emissions. Please note statement # 8. "The fuel pump control circuit includes an engine oil pressure switch with a separate set of normally open contacts. The switch closes at about (4 lbs) 28 kPa of oil pressure and provides a second battery feed path to the fuel pump. If the relay fails, the pump will run, using the battery feed supplied by the closed oil pressure switch". It goes on to say " A failed pump relay will result in extended engine crank times because of the time required to build enough oil pressure to close the oil pressure switch and turn ON the fuel pump. There may be instances when the relay has failed but the engine will not crank fast enough to build enough oil pressure to close the switch. This or a faulty oil pressure switch can result in Engine Cranks, but Won't Start". Simply put. If the oil pressure should drop below four pounds, the switch opens shutting the pump down. Your posting describes how the relay circuit works. Frankly, I really don't think our friend's problem has anything to do with the fuel pump circuit. I only reason I brought the fuel issue up, is because he was told that the fuel pump would not function if the relay was pulled. Hence, the wiring has been "jacked". As you can see, the fuel pump will function without the relay! My point is that the shop or school or whatever his car is, they really does not know just how the car functions. I've been a member here for sometime, I enjoy helping fellow members. I try very hard to post what I know is fact. When I made the statement regarding the fuel system I felt in information was based on fact as stated in the shop manual.
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Vinny: I've been a member here for a very long while (eight years today
). Frankly, I've never heard of anyone having their fuel pump turn off because of a bad sending unit. The sending units do seem to give very poor readings sometimes, but I've never heard of total engine shut down. Oil pressure does control the fuel pump, but I don't think your issue is fuel pump related. Like campolojr, I still vote for a bad Crank Position Sensor, or Cam Position Sensor. The reason I brought up the fuel issue, is to point out that the relay only serves a small part in the total fuel picture, and that the parties currently working on your car are little versed on how it really runs.
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Like Charlie, I've used this company in the past. I was satisfied with the price and service. You do need a part number before they can help you. At least in my case. I got some glove box latches about three years ago. I needed three in grey. That was all they had. I got my order in about a week and a half, as I recall.
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Actually, the car will still run without the relay (the one mounted on the firewall). The purpose of the relay is to turn the pump on to prime the system at start up. Power to the pump to supplied by oil pressure. If oil pressure drops to a danger level, the fuel pump shuts off, thus cutting the engine off to save the engine from lack of oil pressure. The car will even start without the relay, albeit after a very long time. You can test to relay function by simply having the car in a place without a lot of noise, such as a garage. Keep the driver door open, lean out of the door and listen to the rear of the car. Turn the key to "on". You should hear the pump turn on and off after a few seconds. If you don't hear anything, then there is a relay issue. Don't confuse the noise you hear with the brake pump on the firewall. The pump also turns on with the key in the "on" position. I do wish offer a bit a friendly advise. Try to find a Reatta Shop manual. I think you can down load one from www.reatta.net. By having this "bible" at your fingertips, you can access just what someone is telling you. The Reatta's powertrain is not much different from any GM car equipped with this engine of the period. The fact that the location you currently have your car does not know just how the fuel system works is troubling to me. My advice is find a shop that has major GM knowledge, but be it's going to cost. Don't settle for the statement "we don't know anything about this car it is so different and hard to work on yata yata yata" As they say this, their eyes will appear glazed much like a deer's eyes that have been caught in the glow of on coming headlights. Yes, the Reatta does have some odd items having to do with it's electronics, but the engine and transmission is pure, normal, GM.
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A minor point, but at least on the 89, the underhood light does not come on unless the parking lights or headlamps are on. Check to see if it works buy turning on the lights. Also, I know the odds are against this, but have you checked the bulbs on the lights that are not working? My ashtray lamp did not work when I got my car. Replaced the bulb, and has worked ever since.
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Glad to hear that the forum has been of help to you. I second your statement about the great people. I'm a member of other automotive and non automotive forums. Without a doubt, the Reatta forum, which I've been a member since 1999, has the most helpful people. While I've never met any of them, I consider them my friends.
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Thanks, for the input. I was really hoping is was something like a bad batch or damaged O2 sensor, but I've but two on the car so far, and no change. I've even swapped out the ECM. I have a extra I bought from Jim Finn. There still was no change in the behavior. I suspect there is a wiring issue somewhere, but thus far I have not found it. Currently, I've stop driving the car. With gasoline back at $3.00 or more a gallon, I can't afford to fill it up every 220 miles.
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My 89 acted up for some time where the engine would just stop, at times going 70 MPH. It was like someone just switched off the key. Sometimes it would restart, others time it would not start till the next day. There were two problems. Crank Position Sensor and Cam Position Sensor. Both items were replaced and the car has run ever since. However, recently the Check Engine Light comes off and on. The onboard computer says it's the O2 sensor. I've replaced that, with no joy. Also the car is getting only about 13 MPG. I've stop driving it for a while till I can figure out what the issue could be.
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I vote to switch it back to the main forum.
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This topic has been discussed a few times since my membership here. While I've never done the swap myself, it's my understanding that such a swap is just plug and play. Even the connection for the 16 way seats is already made in the wiring harness. You just plug in, and your set. Perhaps some others will chime in who have actually done the swap.
Trunk lid anomoly
in Buick Reatta
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Mine does not pop open, like many trunk lids, but does unlatch. How easy is your lid to open once it's unlatched? Does it go up with very little help? If not, I would guess the supports are shot. Mine will rise only with fingertip pressure, then it will completely open on it's own. Another thing to look for, on each end of the deck lid, there are rubber bumpers. If they are adjusted incorrectly the deck lid will go too far down. You might turn them to have them put a little more pressure against the lid. Be careful not to adjust too much. By doing so your will make the trunk lid impossible to close or the lid will not match the fender lines correctly. In addition, the trunk may not seal securely and leak water.