Ken Lobsinger -Rejuvenated

Thanks again to Tom & Stude Light for the info and advise. The more I poke around and research, I seem to come up with as many questions as I come up with answers. The owner's son to shoot the firewall tag and it may be 1938 model. See photos and let me know your thoughts especially about overpaying. In view of your extensive experience with these cars, if this car is in clean shape as far as the body and undercarriage go, and I can start and drive it, what would you consider a reasonable price range? Due to scheduling issues, I am looking at the car on the morning of Wednesday 4/3. I will be looking at this forum Tuesday night for responses. With the info from GM archives, the questions about this car just got more confusing & complicated. The owner's son shot me a photo of the SN on the frame "2274827" . Nothing starting with "2B" which seems to be in all the guidance I've found. The response from GM's Archives Allied Vaughn is : Searching AI these are the visual differences I found between the 2 model years: The 1937 and 1938 LaSalle models exhibit distinct styling features. Let's delve into the visual differences: 1. Grille Design: ○ 1937 LaSalle: The grille tapers slightly at the top, creating a subtle slope. ○ 1938 LaSalle: The grille is more upright and straight, with more than ten squares at the top, at the upper section. (I count 11 in the photo). It has a wider, "egg-crate" design and a new hood with six narrow chrome strips2 1. 2. Headlights and Front End: ○ 1937 LaSalle: The headlights are secured to the "cat-walk" below the grille. ○ 1938 LaSalle: The headlights are attached to the radiator shell, and the grille is wider and more rounded at the top. Additionally, there are three chrome chevrons on the leading edge of the front fenders. Yet I have seen photos of the 1937 model with the chevron turn signals. 3. Other Notable Features: ○ Both models have pontoon fenders, streamlined "bullet" tail-lights, independent "Knee-Action" front suspension, and hydraulic brakes. ○ The 1938 LaSalle boasts a gold-colored "V8" symbol on the upper right side of the grille, more luxurious interiors, and an all-new dashboard. I don't see the V8 sympoly anywhere on this grille Along with the copy of the build sheet are the 1937 and 38 files they sent to me. If GM's archive people don't know if it is a 37 or 38, how can that determination be made? Titles get changed all the time, so I don't trust that 100%. The 5 passenger Conv. Sedan appears in the following series: 38-50, 38-60, 38-65, 38-75 & 38-90. How do I determine which "series" a partiduclar car is?

The seller says the car ran & drove 2 years ago, when his dad drove it to the grocery store and got the dented fender. The seller says the car is in "Excelent condition", and called the photo minor damage. I think a lot of filler is sivible in the photo. There is a missing rear door handle and a broken Driver window, and I won't be suprised if there is a lot more to make it driveable. If I don't buy it, are you in the market for another LaSalle?

Thank you Tom Boehm and 5219 for sharing you astounding expertise. I knew that I could count on the members for expertise on these issues and I am most greatful that you share it. As for the chassis number, the owner is not in condition to get under the hood and look around the steering box to find it. I've asked him to check the title for the VIN (of that era) and maybe that will give me a head start. If not, Is the VIN on a tag rivited to the firewall ? If not, where? There is a significant dent & a crease in a fender, and I am conserned about todays collision shops having expertise to pull it back out and finish it. I had a 49 DeSoto and it's fenders wereat least 3 - 4 times thicker than those of today. I've looked for a replacement but not found one in good enough shape to bother with. Can you tell me what gauge metal was used in a 37 LaSalle's front fenders, and would it have to be heated to be "bumped" back to shape? If I buy the car, it sounds like membership in the CLC is a must. As to the Kyana AACA swap meet: I don't believe it was there, owner is not able to travel and he doesn't sound like he is willing to turn it over to someone else a couple thousand miles away for a swap meet.

Hopefully the members can help me back in to some expectations. I am to look at a 37 LaSalle Convertible on Wednesday 3/17. Seaching docuementation I have found that this car should have had the 322ci Olds V8 engine, but not assembled by Oldsmobile. The parts were sent to the LaSalle factory and assembled by Cadillac-trained LaSalle assembly teams to authentically declare it was manufactured by Cadillac engineers.Can anyone tell me what the original engine casting number(s) for engines in that car would be? Also, I am new to LaSalles - Any information you can provide around what to look for and what to beware of will be greatly appreciated.

Well after COVID 19, another malady attacked me.... Owning Pre-War Luxury Automobiles. Wish it were something medical, I expect it would be cheaper. Being an optimist and finding out both the wait time and hourly rate of shops which work on vintage cars, I have decided to tackle some issues on my own. I am removing the front seat adjustment mechanism (the whole base frame) to free it up so that it will slide. It is so frozen that the hand lever feels like it is bending when trying to move it. Looks pretty rusted so I thought removing and sand blasting that part might be the solution. The rails on which it slides on both drive & passenger sides looks to be clear. I would expect that it is the same mechanism used on most Ford Mtr. cars of that era. Does anyone have insight they can share?

Hey Jeff - I found the same "cheesecloth" type rags at my otherwise favvorite big Orange Home Store. At either a local Costco or at Costco.com, try these 16 x 19 Bar Towels. I find them durable, bleachable and pretty much lint free.

Thanks to AI, I finally found the 2-diameter Radius Rod Ball bushing. Half is 1.75" and the other half is 2". I found it with Obsolete & Classic Auto Parts, which is part of Classicautoparts.com in Oklahoma City. Now... thanks to some of you I know the best practices for R & R on that piece. For you who have done this work, is this a good time to change the rubber bushings on Stabilator. Thoughts to share or offer?

ShaSho - What in your collection are you trying to sell?

Keith - For my 41 Continental, the plan is to cover it in leather or vinyl to match the interior. Therefore if you have a wheel on hand that you might find unsatisfactory for your sales or display purposes, I am willing to take one of those.

Hello Keith - i know this is 10 years later, but are you fabricating steeing wheels for the 41 Lincoln Continental? If so i have the core and horn ring to send. i am new to AACA & a new owner of this car. Thanks in advance for any help & guidance you can offer. Ken Lobsinger M: 972-754-0344