EricV216

Well the rear end swap is from a 49 Oldsmobile which included the ladder bars.

Yes on the date. The more I keep digging it seems to be 50’s. The date code could be C308, 1958. It could be an olds/pon but the literature I have found shows the casting numbers were in different locations. I have not found anything Buick specific. I’m trying to get some info from JD Race once my profile is approved on their forum.

Yes i do believe they are truck arms used to eliminate the torque tube. The tear end is what i can’t figure out.

not sure why this photo came out upside down.

I’m getting to the last big piece of my Buick puzzle in figuring out what the previous owner modified. Now for the rear end. He eliminated the torque tube and I’m trying to figure out what rear end he put in. It does not look to me that he modified the stock 1955 Century rear end. The closest thing I’ve found is 63-65 Buick 9 3/8” but none of the pictures I’ve found are exact match. Also the date code doesn’t match those years. The date code on the center section is C309 which is stamped on the driver side. This makes me believe it’s from a 1969 vehicle. The passenger side is stamped with 519281 and a large 6 underneath. I did not find any numbers or letter on the axle tubes or anywhere else on the rear end. I attached some photos if anyone can identify this thing.

I am not.

Would you be willing to email me the fisher body manual? I just bought my 1955 Buick Century and would like to get the windows adjusted so I can wash the car lol. I haven’t posted enough to be able to message you directly.

1953mack i have two more for you to confirm if you will. Here is one of them. I believe it is a 54-55 264.

I’ve been reading all their tech notes and blog posts. I didn’t see anything about removing the resistor but I may have missed that part. Very good info on their site. I also have the 1181ls and the flame thrower coil. So no resistor got it.

Thanks for this info. The 55 motor is presumably what came in the car. The grandson of the original owner (who passed away) I bought it from said his grandfather built up one of the engine with different cams, pistons, heads etc which he was told by his grandfathers friend the week I bought the car. They said the engine that was “built” had an X on the back of the engine which the 53 motor has casted near the casting number. Im going to have to look over the motor more to try and figure out what was changed. I know it has 55 heads and intake manifold, 56 exhaust manifolds, and later water manifold (not 56).

This is my spare 322. Team Buick shows it’s a 53-56 but I can’t seem to lock down the year. It does not have the hole in the back of the block. I also have 2 264’s that I need to part ways with if anyone if interested.

Here is the serial number.

By the way Buickbrothers, I see you have a pertronix coil so I assume you’re running the pertronix ignitor. I see you still have the resistor wired into the circuit. The resistor didn’t drop the voltage too much I assume? I haven’t tested mine yet. I have been reading that the resistor may or may not need to be removed.

I do have the repair manual and have been going through the wiring diagrams. I was asking for the pictures to confirm the parts I believe were removed have in fact been removed. Thank you for the photos so far. The car does have the correct stock carb and I also have a spare. It still has the switch on the carb it’s just not connected. Now I know for sure the yellow and pink wires coming out of the center/driver side firewall go to the switch. When everything is back together I will test them disconnected and connected to the switch to see how it operates with the push button start. It would be nice to have that fail safe work with the push button. The push button start is actually wired quite simple with the alternator conversion. But I don’t want to post how it’s set up until I go test option to keep one fail safe. Ive been thinking about using either the stock starter relay or a different GM one to prevent the starter from being able to spin when the engine is running but I’ll hold off for now until I test the stock carb switch. Now I’m just waiting for gaskets to show up next week so I can put the valley cover, intake manifold, valve covers and carb back on. I will post my results when it all together. Thanks for the help so far.

Yes. Driver side rear of block.

I have a bunch of 264/322 buick parts for sale. Several heads, intakes manifolds, valve covers, spark plug covers, exhaust manifolds, timing chains, rocker shafts with rockers, generator, radio, 2 264 engines (not running and I’m not sure of their condition as I have not gone through them yet), manual trans, and several other misc parts which I will update as I sort through everything. I will edit this post with a running list as I go though things but if you are looking for anything mentioned above let me know. I’m in Southern California and I’m happy work work shipping out.

Can anyone identify this engine casting number? 1343388-3. I’m under the impression it’s either a 55 or 56 322. I search the lists on team Buick and didn’t see this number.

I have one. But I’m struggling finding these wires in the car and figuring out what has been removed. At this point I believe the pink wiring coming out of the firewall center/driver side should go to the starter relay, one of the yellows goes to the coil, and the other yellow bo idea yet.

Hey everyone I’m hoping to get some help. I’m new to these Buicks and just purchased a 1955 Century 2 door. The previous owner did an alternator conversion and removed the pedal start by adding a push button on the bottom of the dash. And messed with the wiring coming out of the firewall. I got the engine running by jumping from the ignition coil resistor straight to the coil but I know this is not correct and I need to sort this out. The wiring I’m looking at are as follows: On the center/passenger side of the firewall there is one pink and one yellow wire coming out of the firewall and going directly to what I believe is the ignition coil resistor. Yellow on one side and pink on the other. The pink wire is the hot source when the key is turned to on. On the center/driver side of the firewall there are two yellow and one pink wires coming out. All three of these wires have been cut. One of the yellow wires has a piece of wire added with a ring terminal, presumably the wire he used to go to the + coil. I’m trying to figure out what these three wires originally connected to. The pedal start has been disabled and to an extent removed from the car which isn’t a big concern to me right now but I don’t know if the removal of some parts is affecting the ignition wiring. These are my findings so far: To start, the start push button the previous owner added is wired from the powered junction block on the driver fender to the dash/button then directly to the starter. The large power wire for the starter goes from this junction block directly to the starter (this power cable appears to be how the wiring diagram describes). The yellow wire going to the starter has been removed and I’m yet to even find it on the car. Additionally, I cannot locate a starter relay anywhere on the car as the button is directly wired to the starter, presumably in place of the relay. I also cannot locate the accelerator switch, between the starter relay and the neutral safety switch, which I believe has also been removed along with the starter relay, effectively disabling the neutral safety switch. I’m hoping that someone can help with sending me some close-up photos of the wiring on the firewall around the back of the motor and leading to the coil, the starter relay, etc that I mentioned. I’ve been going through the writing diagrams but am having some trouble figuring out exactly what he did. I’d ask him but he has passed and his grandson didn’t know much about the car. I can usually figure these things out provided I have a correct example to reference. I’m more than happy to provide my phone number or email address to anyone that’s willing to help. Thanks.