EThomas

Having just went thru this with a car that sat in a museum for 20 years, you will need to do a full and complete brake system rebuild. The hydraulic fluid will have damaged everything from sitting. It may not look like it from the outside; however, it has. I had everything from the drums in replaced - pads, wheel cylinders, lines, master cylinder - the full nine yards. You'll also need to have your parking brake serviced and repaired as well. I know it's not the news you're looking for. It wasn't the news I wanted either.

To add to this, check your generator as well. I had to get mine rebuilt as the bearings were locking up as it got warm.

I suggested looking at the brakes, in your post in the General Discussion section.

I purchased a '31 CM6 out of a museum at the end of last year. I had some weird issues with vibration and noise when driving. One of the issues discovered was the brakes were locking up, dragging and binding. I ended up having to do a full complete brake system rebuild - absolutely everything, including the drums, wheel cylinders, lines, master cylinder and repainting the chassis where the fluid leaked and damaged the paint. I'd start with a good look at your parking brake, to make sure it's fully releasing. Next, methodically look at the brakes, starting with the drums and walking your way back, thru the wheel cylinders, lines and to the master cylinder. One good test is to put your hands on the drums after you've driven a little bit. If it's warm, you've got issues.

I'll take them both. Worse case, I'll have a spare on hand. Which, in today's world, isn't a bad thing.

Thank you so much for taking the time to look. I really appreciate that.

PM sent. Thank you so very much!

Last one...

More...

This is what I got this morning from the shop that's doing the work. I hope it helps.

I found out today the water pump housing is cracked and I need to source a water pump. I've pretty much exhausted my search ability on the internet to get one. Does anyone have one for sell or know where I can get one? Is there one from another make/year that is interchangeable that would be easier to source? I've reached out for possible rebuilding; however, the lead time is months at best if I'm lucky.

I haven't posted in awhile and wanted to give an update on this Summer's twists and turns, as Fall is around the corner. I finally encountered an issue where I couldn't drive more than 100 yards without the car completely shutting off and not running again for weeks. After months of wrenching (and a fair amount of long nights and weekends full of part deliveries, greasy hands, busted knuckles, sore muscles and colorful language), to be frank and honest, I threw in the towel. I found a restoration shop in Chicagoland who is turning her into a reliable, semi-daily driver. I know I've chosen the hard route, as I am not doing any modifications at all. The car will remain as intended from 1931 - completely stock. What I discovered along the way, and am reminded of a post I saw here many months ago, is the last 10% is the longest and most expensive. When everything is said and done, I bought a car in near perfect cosmetic condition. Unfortunately, that's it. After 20 years of sitting and less than 500 miles, everything else has required extensive attention. As I reflect on the ups and downs with "Alice" (as the car has been affectionally named), I'm reminded of the neighborhood kids running to see the car and the surprise and delight on their faces with excitement in the air as they opened and closed the rear suicide doors, played with the sunshades, cranked the windows, sat behind the wheel and explored every little nook and cranny. It has been well worth it.

Thank you for the additional information. I really appreciate folks chiming in to help out and sharing knowledge with me! That's a good tip to test the driveline! I hadn't considered there would be pressure on it. I didn't know balancing beads even existed! I'll give that a try as well. That's pretty slick and takes some of the pressure off of having a shop perfectly balance the wheels.

Thank you all for the answers and feedback. I'm glad I didn't fiddle with the covers. I'm learning to step back and try to look at things from a more simplified point of view. It's been interesting to have to modify the knowledge I have from modern cars to this car. Humps and bumps along the road, but well worth it. It's absolutely fascinating to learn a mechanical and analog point of view. I did attempt to move the driveshaft yesterday. It will not move side to side; however, it will move front to back a slight bit. I assumed that was ok as the car has freewheeling and it does work (which is a very odd sensation to experience, I must say). Is it fair to assume the front and back movement is a concern or is that intrinsic to having a working freewheeling system? I will also do the turn it off and shift into neutral trick. Pretty slick idea! I had not considered an issue with the wheels. I think a round of tightening the spokes and balancing is in my future. I'll also check for flat spots (which I feel like an idiot for not even considering!). Looks like I have a busy upcoming weekend with a myriad of things to try. Thank you so much and I'll let y'all know what the ultimate issue is, when I find it.

It was restored in the early 2000’s and was in two museums till early this year. I’m guessing about 20 years total just sitting. It has less than 500 miles total since the odometer was reset at that time. Most of what I’ve dealt with is dry rot and corrosion from sitting. I’ve greased up all the places based on the owner’s book. I’m obsessive about clean so I’ve tidied up behind myself. That said, it was super clean when I got it and I haven’t taken it on a dirty road or any weather.

It’s been a journey getting her roadworthy and reliable to daily drive. The cooling system is sorted with new hoses and a tightened water pump. The soft fuel line from the fuel hard line to the motor is new (that was fun). The hydraulic brake switch is new. All the electrical connections are cleaned and tightened. I’m now on to an issue that is perplexing. There is a noise while driving over 25 mph. I initially thought it was a brake issue as the passenger drum was a little warm after a quick drive. After preparing for a brake job, turned out two lug nuts had fallen off behind the hubcap. Tightened them (and all the other nuts) and tried again. The noise is there. It’s a thumping noise. In first, second and third gear under 25 mph, no noise. Over 25 mph, it starts. There is no vibration I can feel under me or in the wheel. It seems to be independent of any gear (first, second or third) - that seems to rule out transmission and axel. It’s all speed dependent and only over 25 mph. I suspect U joint or motor mount. This morning, under the car, I see this. It’s a suede boot with a leather and metal tie around it. It’s on both ends of the U joint. Should it be there? I don’t want to remove it if something is supposed to cover the joint. I’ve made a couple if minor errors applying modern thoughts to this. Most small issues have been resolved by a little tightening here and there and some use. Any thoughts or insights? Does this replace a cover? Would the metal tie bind the joint?

Thank you so much! I'll try that this weekend and see. Hopefully, it's an easy fix.

And the final round.

More pics

Here's what I'm seeing. It's not the easiest to get down and under. I'm feeling my age some days.

I recently purchased a restored 1931 Chrysler CM-6. One of the bugs I'm currently working on is the light switch on the steering wheel. It appears the switch is too tight, as it moves with the wheel and turns on/off the headlights or cowl lights as I drive. It's a bit disconcerting to drive around and realize I'm flashing my lights at folks during the day as I turn a corner. It's an even more disconcerting feeling to be driving at night and have the lights turn off as I turn a corner! Quite unsettling. How's the best way to fix this? Am I missing a bushing at the base of the steering wheel? Is the CLUM switch too tight? Any insight or advice would be welcomed.

Thank you so much. Your car is beautiful. That is an amazing color!

Thank you for the kinds words and nice welcome. I’m excited to join this group, learn more and hopefully pass on what I learn from others to new folks.

I just purchased this car last week. Overall, it’s in amazing condition. The cosmetics are phenomenal. Mechanically, it’s in good shape. There are some slight issues from setting for years. It appears a restoration was done in the early 2000’s, with the odometer reset. Since then, it’s done less than 400 miles. I think it’ll take a few months to work all the bugs out. I bought a 1930 Model A Tudor last year. It was a one family car. All original with no modifications. That car is currently in a sympathetic restoration - rebuilding and reusing as much original parts as we can. I thought this Chrysler would be a good distraction till it’s finished.

Holy smokes! That would be fantastic. My email is *edit <REMOVED> Thank you so much!