Crusty Caballero

Picked up my first Oldsmobile a few weeks ago - 1955 Super 88. Overall in good condition but numerous minor issues and some not so minor. Rebuilt booster/master cylinder so now running, driving, and stopping! Worst issue is it was "slicked/dechromed" by a previous owner so hood/trunk ornament/emblems are gone. The rocket is easy enough but they flattened the raised area for the hood ornament. Did a good job but one of these days I might be in the market for new hood or at least a good emblem area cutout. Also looking for a set of correct wheels.

Recently bought a '55 Super 88 with manual steering. Owner had bought '56 gearbox, pump, and column but wasn't sure if actually compatible. I believe I understand the column is different but will any of these parts swap into the '55?

Picked it up a couple days ago so I'm in the market for set of wheels.

Ok, 49-56. All things being equal, I think I'd prefer 15x6 but I'll be happy to find 15x5.5. Great looking wheels/caps!

Great, thanks. Just what I needed to know

I'm looking at a '55 Holiday Coupe that I may pick up after the 1st. Nice car but has a mix-match of non-Olds wheels. What years, or other GM model wheels, would be correct. If I remember correctly, it's 5 on 5 lug pattern but not sure on hub diameter.

I'm still looking for the "ESTATE" part of ESTATE WAGON but I'd buy both words. As you can see in pic a few posts up, they are individual letters. Thanks to both of you for thinking about this. I'm slowly working out the kinks on my Caballero.

Finally got my butt in gear and got the booster/master cylinder installed. I've been dreading the underdash part with that big nut but it's done. I hope the engineer who designed that and put a bunch of stuff in the way so you couldn't get to it is still laughing. Ended up using a 1-3/4 socket with a rod stuck in the detent hole to turn. With the specified Super 11 not available, what brake fluid are folks using in these original systems? Search generally suggests DOT3 or 4.

Daughter understands that now as well as that 4dr isn't the most desirable. I think at this point she'd entertain any fair offer given condition. Also think it could easily go with or without trailer. Homebuilt but looked pretty heavy duty and possibly worth swapping out the mobile home axles if someone needed a trailer.

Went and looked at this one today. I had high hopes, nice looking car externally with older repaint, nice dash, clean looking engine/under hood - but too much floor pan, rocker, trunk, etc rot for me to take on. Supposedly last ran 5 yrs ago. They haven't had much interest and I believe at least seller understands now they're way overpriced. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3091931654437868?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post

Didn't even get to the engine turning stage. Too much floor pan, rocker, trunk, etc rot for me to take on. Shame because it was it was a decent looking car with older repaint, nice dash, clean looking engine/under hood. I'll put a link in "not mine" on the chance that someone else might be interested. I think at least seller understands now their value expectations are unrealistic.

Thanks guys, good points. Will try turning by hand first. Wasn't planning on spinning it, just making sure it's not locked up. Supposedly running a couple of years ago (weren't they all?). Mainly just wanted to make sure there wasn't some major negative about '49 Roadmasters I wasn't aware of. Agree they're great looking cars - even the 4 door sedans. Stay tuned!

Going this weekend to look at a local '49 Roadmaster. Typical story - father worked on for years (maybe gone now?) and kids selling. Not currently running but exterior/under hood pics look good. Interior is a little rough. Will take a battery just to see if engine turns. Four door sedan but that doesn't bother me other than a value consideration. I'm still new to old Buicks so any general thoughts about this one - stay away, run? Special things to look out for? Parts availability? I can't even finish the '58 I'm working on so I shouldn't be looking at another project but that's never stopped me before!

Still looking!

Got "WAGON" (thanks @jackofalltrades70). Still looking for "ESTATE" but also open to a full set, repop, etc.

Still looking.

No update, just a day in the sun while moving stuff around in the shop.

It probably does. But I've got too many projects going at once and forget that I've got manuals for some. And I was venting a little because the "major repair kit" didn't come with even the simplest of instructions. But it's done and hopefully will work once I get it installed. If I had to do another though, I'd probably look elsewhere for a rebuild kit. There were a couple of simple rubber parts missing as well as the thin metal spacers seal expander that seem minor enough that they should have been included in the kit. Fortunately, between two units I could piece together everything I needed. And the supplied rubber boot that goes over the input shaft is too big. Guess I shouldn't expect much for $270 w/ shipping!

Thanks, that's very helpful.

Got the extended radius rod built and starting to work on booster/MC. Just got major rebuild kit this afternoon from Fusick for 57'-58' w/ 4 hole MC to booster gasket as shown on their site. However sheet included (from Harmon Classic Brakes) notes four hole MC = '55-'56 and three hole MC = '57-59. From what I can tell, the kit is same for all except the MC to booster gasket. My car had 3-hole installed but had obviously been off at some point and may not be original. I got another complete 4-hole unit in the deal. Both master cylinders cleaned up nice but the booster canister for the 3-hole has a good bit of pitting so I'm planning on building the 4-hole. I can call Fusick/Harmon on Mon but in the meantime, can anyone confirm correct years for the 4 vs 3 hole Moraine master cylinders? Also, there are no instructions included, just a bad copy of a copy of a parts breakdown. Neighbor rebuilt a similar unit for his '56 Olds a couple years ago and was told by parts seller that the leather seal in the booster needed to be soaked in neatsfoot oil before installing. Seal in the kit I got seems soft enough but do I need to soak/wipe down w/ neatsfoot oil? I read a comment somewhere about changing the felt backer for the leather seal due to oil soak so questioning whether to oil or not.

Finally got it back up on the lift. My 41" dummy radius rod ended up pushing axle too far to left. Couple more tries and 40 5/8" seems to be the sweet spot - only 3/8" extension from original 40 1/4" but it is what it is. Another close look at the brackets/mounting points and nothing is bent. So short of learning something different in the next day or so, I'm going to cut/weld the nicer rod I picked up to 40 5/8. Noticed something else a little odd during the repeated lifting/lowering. The rear end of the car progressively crabs towards the passenger side each time you lift/lower. Enough that after a couple of lifts you better check your pad placement. Never had a vehicle with a radius rod/panhard bar so maybe this is common? Makes sense given how the radius rod pushes the axle to the left and then as the weight is off and axle drops, it shifts to right where it will be it sits down again.

Thanks for keeping me in mind. Since I've now got two radius rods, today I made a dummy rod extended 3/4" (= 41" center to center) to test. Will be a few days yet before I can get it on but here's some pics. I can see how someone might get 42" trying measure in place. Got the bushings from Cars, LLC (Old Buick Parts). Since then I think I've read good bushings are hard to get? Right frame side Left axle side

My original radius rod and the one I just got are both 40 1/4. Can't find any part #s. on either. Looks like it needs to be 41 or maybe even 41 1/4 (hence my 3/4 to 1" too short comments). Haven't been able to get any measurements from anyone yet. Got another car on the lift right now but when free will get the Caballero back up and double check that nothing else is bent and throwing it off. Only other option is that there are supposed to be some spacers between the left frame rail and the left radius rod bracket but I don't think that's the case. Occurs to me though, that's not even an option given how the brackets mount.

No luck today on the rebuilt booster/MC & radius rod pulled from a restored '58 Century that a local guy restomoded. Thinks he might have tossed the booster/MC but could still turn up. Nice radius rod but same length as my current rod that's 3/4-1" short. In nicer shape than mine so may ultimately cut/extend. Did score a bunch of other nice parts including a nice recored heater core which I definitely need.