-
Posts
552 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by 31 LaSalle
-
-
8 hours ago, Bloo said:
Dodge28 has the right idea. Use rosin core or other electronic solder. Don't use plumbing flux. Yes plumbing flux works well and makes the job super easy because it is so active, but it does *not* make good long lasting electrical connections. Acid core solder and acid (plumbing) flux is the biggest no-no in electronics, and has been since the late 1920s.
You do need to keep any flame far away from rosin flux. Rosin burns, and when it burns, it won't do it's job. I like @dodge28's idea of putting the solder down in the hole. Then just don't let the flame get in there. Professional materials to do this consist of pellets made of electronic solder that drop in the hole.
The only reason I can think of to crimp is if you are really cheap or in a hurry. Years ago Ford made a good example of this. Ford, on 12 volt cars, used to use spindly little cables that looked ridiculous. I used to make fun of them until one time I replaced some originals and checked the voltage drop before and after. The new cables that had bigger copper wire inside and looked 3 times bigger due to thicker insulation performed worse. A closer look revealed the spindly little original Ford cables were soldered. The new cables, despite having bigger wire were more resistive. The new ones would have deteriorated over time and got even worse because as a cable ages, each strand of wire tarnishes and the resistance in a crimp increases. Current has to travel through several layers of tarnish to get to the center strands. Solder on the other hand alloys itself to the terminal and to every strand. There should be no deterioration over time. Now to be fair, the new cables weren't *that* much worse, but they were measurably worse and they were brand new. I put the old cables back on.
Anyone who doesn't believe this is welcome to measure it. Measure with a multimeter from one end of the battery cable to the other end, disable the ignition and crank the starter. The reading should be zero, and it would be in a perfect world if we had room temperature superconductors. In the real world, there is always loss. You are measuring loss, so lower is better.
At the end of the day it doesn't matter how the ends are attached, all that really matters is getting the loss as low as you possibly can. Bigger wire helps. So does soldering.
Good tip on the soldering I was going to use pluming solder Glad I read your post Thanks
- 1
-
12 minutes ago, Bloo said:
I think it's an Austin A-40 of some sort, and there are several. Maybe a Devon. I am going to guess late 40s to early 50s until someone nails it down closer.
Austin A40 probably 1950
- 3
-
Lovely work
- 1
-
HI leomara
You could use araldite two part epoxy resin I think this would work ok for your purpose
as once you clamp it down and the epoxy cures you have no problems with pressure or movement on the fedco plate
Good luck
-
-
-
My 1928 72 has brass manifold nuts
-
-
I got a quote for running board trims for my 1931 Lasalle 350 dollars quoted
the chap was called Brad Landoll blandoll@hotmail.com
although that was 8 years ago
-
As I replied to the now deleted post My number one on my bucket list is Hershey
I hope to get there one day
- 3
-
Meticulous work I am sure you will get lots of enjoyment from the end results after all your hard work
- 2
- 1
-
2 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:
Could use the fat & skinny on the size of the shaft. Is there a hub held on with screws or is your wheel all molded in one piece?
all molded one piece
-
Looking to buy a wood rimmed 17 inch steering wheel for a model 72 Chrysler
slightly taper bore with one keyway possible other models will fit ????
-
Looking to buy a 17 inch wood rimmed steering wheel for a model 72 Chrysler ( possibly other model will fit has slight taper bore and key ) ???
-
After attending a few car auctions in the uk recently I have noticed a drop in prices achieved on pre war american cars
some of the prices you could not import one from the usa requiring restoration
just a few examples shown hear
1928 Franklin $8800 1922 Dodge $9700 1927 Hudson $12000 1935 Hudson Terraplane $21000
all these cars were tidy examples Also a 1935 Plymouth coupe requiring full restoration But complete $3600 pity i had no room for it
- 2
-
4 hours ago, zepher said:
HI zepher Thank you so much for the picture I would say they are the same lights
I have seen a few pictures of these lights mounted in various positions on Chrysler cars
which makes me wonder are these Chrysler parts or aftermarket ???
NICE CAR
- 1
-
39 minutes ago, TAKerry said:
Maybe adding my 2c where it doesnt belong (although very interesting information above) but the op is in the UK, would the colours be opposite there?
Good point but the car being american right hand drive i would like to keep it as it was intended
only ever seen these jewels on american cars??
- 1
-
25 minutes ago, Noble_Bluejacket said:
Hi, I’m looking for additional information on this reservoir system. I’m trying to make mine function again but cannot tell how the pieces that seal in the tube are assembled, as they had fallen off inside the reservoir and I had to retrieve them with a magnet when doing my initial inspection when I bought the car. Any details regarding how the three-holed disk, leather seal, and clip are held in place on the rod would be immensely appreciated. Thanks
HI Welcome to the forum
I have not got round to rebuilding mine
I need to make a leather seal yet
-
1 minute ago, zepher said:
The '24 Chrysler roadsters have small marker light assemblies just rearward of the door openings with red and green jeweled lenses.
I would hate to try and source original jewels today.
I have a 1928 Chrysler 72 conv coupe this pair of lights came in box of parts
are they similar to the 24 roadster ones if you have a picture i would love to see it
-
3 hours ago, BlueDevil said:
The hub detaches from the wheel with screws so you just need something to bolt on the hub. Have you looked at Motolita
Hi Bill My steering wheel has no screws just one molded piece
I am looking for wood rimmed wheel but one which is period correct
I noticed in one of your posts you used a reamer on your new boss
do you know the details of the reamer as I have seen a few steering wheels that are correct but slightly out on taper
-
-
On 11/11/2023 at 1:30 PM, pre1939chrysler said:
The72 didn't have wood it was all bakelite . Leo was over and showed me the correct one. Will send picture Mondaty
Still Looking ??
-
7 hours ago, jeff_a said:
Nice, very rare Peerless Sedan! The last time I checked, there were about 12 Peerlesses in the U.K. Did yours come from someone using it as a wedding hire car 15 years ago, or did it come to your shores more recently? Ace American car collection!
Hi jeff a
I have had the peerless 10 years it has been in uk 20 years not used as a wedding car to my knowledge
thank you for your comments
7 hours ago, jeff_a said:Nice, very rare Peerless Sedan! The last time I checked, there were about 12 Peerlesses in the U.K. Did yours come from someone using it as a wedding hire car 15 years ago, or did it come to your shores more recently? Ace American car collection!
- 1
-
I recently posted a question on the Cadillac/Lasalle section
where my question was which side of the headlight does the green jewel go and which side the red jewel go
I originally thought they were only fitted to the Lasalle and Cadillac but have since learned Packards of that vintage fitted them as well
anyway to get to the point of my post what I would like to know is what was the purpose of these jewels in the side of headlamps
Thank You
1931 CM6 first real drive!
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Love the car cant wait to here about your journey