firecars

I have a 1948 Chevrolet Woodie, how can I tell who built it? I understand there were at least 2 companies that built the wood bodies on the chassis. I've noticed in pictures some rear windows have a divider in the glass, mine does not, does that help determine the builder?

Doing some winter work on our 48 Chevy woody, were the kick panels made of mahogany ply-score or were they the standard heavy cardboard painted to match interior? Our car had none when purchased a few years ago. Thanks Wayne Sandford

Here are a few pic's of progress to date. Tailgate and fenders next then glass, then roof cover. Shooting for a spring 2023 show circuit.

Went to Mystic for the Yankee chapter meet show, I think I counted 21 cars, very nicely displayed on the grass at mystic seaport under some trees. Did get a chance to talk to a few members about woodie repairs/rebuilding. Thanks everyone.

I will be at Mystic but woodie-less. Thanks for your thoughts

So I have been working on this 48 Chevy Woodie for a year now, drive train is finally done, new 250 6 cyl, th350 and s-10 rear axle. It drives around the yard, hurray!!! My question is do I paint the metal next an assemble that and then finish wood, or should I finish wood and then paint and assemble? Most of my car friends think painting should be next and then finish woodworking (not really a lot to do, maybe a few more pieces to make and assemble and then varnish. Over the winter I had to build a new rear drivers side door and have changed all the panels to new mahogany plywood. I did start with Satin finish but.... I'm going to change to gloss for finish coats (thanks to comments here). I am still in need of mechanical parts for a left rear door, window regulator and metal bracket if someone has those parts collecting dust. thanks for your thoughts.

After sanding it down, could I switch to gloss? If yes that's what I'm going to try.

I am brushing each coat on mine as well. in the beginning coats I used a sponge brush and disposed of it when done. Now using a Purdy nylon/polyester brush, to date it works well. But I am second guessing my choice to use Satin finish, I do like the look a lot better when its wet, nice and shiny.

Interesting, all 8 coats are Satin, did not see that anywhere. but I have noticed it beginning to look "foggy" with last coat. I was thinking of stopping at 8 due to look. I guess the question is which should it be gloss or satin?

I am well into doing a 48 chevy and chose to use McCloskey "Man O' War" Marine spar varnish. It claims to have maximum UV protection. With 8 coats on it looks great and exceeds my expectations. It really leveled nicely, can't wait to do frame and rear quarter. I did go with the Satin finish, still trying to decide if it should be gloss. But I'm very happy with the results to date. Hope to be installing doors in next few weeks.

I bought it out of a wood dealer in New York, it is mahogany both sides, a little expensive but I thought it was worth it. I think $250 per 4x8 sheet. They had the Ash so I ordered it all at one time. I think all the wood was $1250.00. I'm changing all the mahogany so it will all look identical (I hope).

Again, thank you! we will try to make Woodie show in Maine, probably camp somewhere near by. I don't think our car will be ready for that, but should make Mystic 2023. The new drive train runs, metal body parts are prepped for painting, wood is about 60% done. If it ever warms up here in CT I'll be on it full time, at least trying to get it driving around town.

so another question, do you varnish inside door also? it appears that it was from fisher, is that correct?

Yes, I am planning to be in Mystic, and will try to make the heritage show, hopefully Ma. show, was not aware of Me show. They are on my calendar.

Wow again great points, I was planing on varnishing whole car at once, even though I was thinking of doing it piece by piece in a warm space, your points really just made job easier for me. I can do it piece by piece. The doors are all being stored indoors, you just opened my eyes to begin varnishing the doors now while finishing up car work in the garage. Last week I drove it out of garage on new drive train (250 6 cyl, 350 auto), body parts waiting for it to warm up before I paint it (oxford maroon). Looks like I start building a clean room for varnishing. I live in Conn. and yes I'm a member of Woodie club.

great points, we used the same method of hanging brushes in thinner when i would be varnishing a boat. I forgot all about that, thank you!!

Good point, My car will live in garage way more than outdoors. Only rain it will probably see is if I get caught in an unexpected storm. Thanks Tom.

wow 10 to 20 coats, was not expecting that. Thanks for the great advice, I'll post some pic's when done. Hope to start it this coming week, front metal all primed waiting for paint. Might make a September drive.

Thank you, so a marine grade spar varnish should work, which is what I was thinking.

I have spent quite some time working on wood body, doors will be going back on shortly. Question is what is the proper material and procedure to get the wood finished? Do I use Shellac with many coats or some newer finish maybe a poly based finish? Is it sprayed on or brushed? When I did boats it was all brushed on. If someone can offer some advice as to material and application methods that would be great. Thanks, Wayne

Hi everyone, thank you for the comments, My thoughts are to keep the wood as built no changes or chopping, but after all the comments, I think I'm going to upgrade the motor to a 250 and keep as much of drive line intact. I have found a 51 rear axle and will change out the differential and torque tube giving me a 3:55 rear instead of the 4:11. Between the motor and rear differential change It should give us what we are looking for, an original looking car, but one that can go the distance. Thank you for all the help deciding what to do.

Blind Pew, Your points are very valid, we own 4 other 1940ish chevys all original and never go to a show that requires high way travel. so we are limited to what we go to and miss out on many nice shows. Maybe I update one of the other cars and keep the Woodie stock, We have a 1940 convertible that I don't think I'd touch maybe the Woodie is in the same group. we own 2 other 47's (business coupe and sedan delivery) maybe one of these becomes a candidate for updating drive line. Sorry to sound so wishy-washy just don't want to street rod a car that is valuable as stock, but we do want to go places with a car that is hi-way usable. I like the idea of adding disk brakes as well. Thanks for the comments, I'm still thinking. Maybe its time for a trailer.

I'm a new owner of a 1948 Chevrolet Woodie, but I own a number of other 47/48 Chevrolet's. The Woodie I just bought has the original 216 engine in it, it is rebuild able. My question is should I leave original motor in car? is it worth it? I was going to replace the entire drive train with a 1970 250 cu motor., but now I'm having second thoughts. I thought the newer drive train would allow me to travel with the car. thoughts? One question, is the rear axle in the Woodie wagons 4:11 or did they use another ratio? I do need a drivers side rear door if anyone has a spare door or parts?