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rone

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Posts posted by rone

    DODGE BROTHERS 1924 starter/generator

    in Technical

    Posted

    The rebuild shop called and asked if there's anything special about removing the sprocket from the shaft. He said he said he heated it and pressed it to the point he didn't want to go any farther. He did remove the nut also. So is there anything special involved in the removal of that sprocket/ gear or is it just really seized up? it has a keyway so it should just press off. 

     

     

    1933 Plymouth coupe newbie

    in Plymouth

    Posted

    So the goal this summer is to get motor mounts redone and pull the shocks to rebuild or have rebuilt. Hope drive it this summer-fall.  refilled shocks but oil just oozes out. motor mounts look and act like tar. 

    For Sale-1934 Desoto Airflow - $15000 (south San Francisco) NOT MINE

    in Desoto

    Posted

    No we have had it since 2014  I believe we got it from the party that bought it from this listing to flip  payed more than this for it. Was delivered to mechanic that redid the breaks and serviced everything $1400  drove it home and found the battery was hooked up backwards and the wire to fuel pump was hot (wire to small gauge. That was it's only drive, been stored since. Have got a brake hanging up now so that and fuel pump wire will be fixed and it will get checked out by me before it's sold. It's still in the condition shown above. Nice looking 34.

    Added 1924 Dodge touring to the stable-- HELP

    in Dodge & Dodge Brothers

    Posted

    I thought I posted this but don't see it 

    I found the original pump and gears in boxes of parts I got, the gears are shot. So I know why they added the exterior pump. 

    now  Thanks for info the check ball set-up. I only get small quiver on gauge, but the line it it has been replace with what looks like the hard plastic tubing used on modern gauges from the firewall up and I don't see any oil in it. I saw a post about priming the gauge (sounds like fun) and that may be the problem? also the check ball may not be working properly? Unfortunately I'm leaving town for a few days on Wed. and I'll probably forget everything I've learned good thing it's here on the forum   

    • Haha 1

    Added 1924 Dodge touring to the stable-- HELP

    in Dodge & Dodge Brothers

    Posted · Edited by rone (see edit history)

    Ok just to start   it's a very solid original condition car have, all the parts I think. Went blind went examining it and didn't question that third pully set-up. Turns out it's an added oil pump. It totally bypasses the the original pump. 

    Thinking I'm going to have to drop pan and check out why they did it. 

    not sure yet how much oil it is pumping.

    Questions 

    How much pressure do I need? I have test set but will probably need different gauge to read low oil pressures more accurately.

    If I pull the oil line from pump to check volume-flow should I be able to stop it with finger ?

    What is the repair manual that helps the most for these cars? the motor #A62-015  

     

    I know there is tons of info here I just have to find it. Anyone ever seen a set-up like this? It's not a simple bolt on, it took some thought for sure.

    If I'm using this site wrong any help appreciated  Thanks

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    Getting the 34 Desoto Airflow ready for sale, this and the 33 plymouth coupe ready to drive this summer have hands full!

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    1933 Plymouth coupe newbie

    in Plymouth

    Posted

    ply 33   yes the originals are special made for sure. I came to the conclusion they have to pivot, so I can see why this style wasn't used very long. mine just had a single nut no locking system at all that seems strange but all four were like that.

    1933 Plymouth coupe newbie

    in Plymouth

    Posted

    thanks for the replies

    next shock absorber links-- hum.   The rubber bushings were shot. When I saw them I said to myself I've seen this setup before, went out and looked at my 99 S10 pickup front end, yep sway bar links. They are the same size and very close to the original remains the car had. They worked with a little mod. The ink rods in the rear are worn and eroded bad were the top bushings go, over half gone, I haven't seen any of the available any where so I tried to make some. used 3/8 " mild steal rod. found some collars  that would work for stops and tried it thread them, failed. got some redi-bolt fix it up but it bends when suspension hangs as when jack from the punkin  the arc of the shock arm seems to indicate the the bushings have to pivot some to allow for the arc of the arm. I think I have them tightened to much causing the links to bend. seems like a poor engineered set up to me. How long can those bushings last rubbing back and forth? anyone now how to set those links up. how tight etc.?

    1933 Plymouth coupe newbie

    in Plymouth

    Posted

    It was bent back on both ends, passenger side back about 25- 30 degrees drivers 5+.  I drilled a 3/4" hole thru 4x6 about 4' long put it in bed of pickup and ran the rod thru the whole stood on 4x6 and bent it back straight. It turned out great, just a little wiggle you can feel more than see. No collapsing pipe I can notice. Thanks for reply. Waiting for my nos tie rod ends to arrive.

    On the 33 Plymouth site he mentions drag link tearing out, any idea what he means?

    1933 Plymouth coupe newbie

    in Plymouth

    Posted

    Just got this car from California it's a true Cali car.  Working on suspension rebushing shocks and filling them up. New tie rod ends and lube job all looks good except the tie rod is bent up. Is the tie rod suppose to be straight on these cars?? I have a parts book coming that will probably show the part but it is day away and I would like to get this done. Thanks have other questions coming for sure will try to keep post on topic. 

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