rone

Also can somebody supply the bearing numbers for that unit it is a type GA

The rebuild shop called and asked if there's anything special about removing the sprocket from the shaft. He said he said he heated it and pressed it to the point he didn't want to go any farther. He did remove the nut also. So is there anything special involved in the removal of that sprocket/ gear or is it just really seized up? it has a keyway so it should just press off.

What plug are you using??

the spare tire valve stem access cover

Stromberg EXV 2 carburetor,,, this makes me wonder what I'm not seeing. If you still have this I'll buy it. how much is shipping area code 98325? How do want to be paid ? pay pal works good for me or?? Thanks Ron Corbin 360 301 2470

Not like the 34

So the goal this summer is to get motor mounts redone and pull the shocks to rebuild or have rebuilt. Hope drive it this summer-fall. refilled shocks but oil just oozes out. motor mounts look and act like tar.

No we have had it since 2014 I believe we got it from the party that bought it from this listing to flip payed more than this for it. Was delivered to mechanic that redid the breaks and serviced everything $1400 drove it home and found the battery was hooked up backwards and the wire to fuel pump was hot (wire to small gauge. That was it's only drive, been stored since. Have got a brake hanging up now so that and fuel pump wire will be fixed and it will get checked out by me before it's sold. It's still in the condition shown above. Nice looking 34.

I thought I posted this but don't see it I found the original pump and gears in boxes of parts I got, the gears are shot. So I know why they added the exterior pump. now Thanks for info the check ball set-up. I only get small quiver on gauge, but the line it it has been replace with what looks like the hard plastic tubing used on modern gauges from the firewall up and I don't see any oil in it. I saw a post about priming the gauge (sounds like fun) and that may be the problem? also the check ball may not be working properly? Unfortunately I'm leaving town for a few days on Wed. and I'll probably forget everything I've learned good thing it's here on the forum

This car will be going up for sale again soon!

Is there a classified sales area on this site?

A little help on understanding the oil pressure check valve behind the water pump would help I think I see it mentioned but not how it really works or is adjusted. Mine it tough to get to because of the way the oil pump is mounted (see picture 1) I can still get to it but it would help to know how it works.

Thanks yes after reading up on it some thats what I plan, will pull oil line and check the flow rate. Prime cups seem right.?

ok found good info on-cutdown- thread volume more than pressure think I have that will test now

Ok just to start it's a very solid original condition car have, all the parts I think. Went blind went examining it and didn't question that third pully set-up. Turns out it's an added oil pump. It totally bypasses the the original pump. Thinking I'm going to have to drop pan and check out why they did it. not sure yet how much oil it is pumping. Questions How much pressure do I need? I have test set but will probably need different gauge to read low oil pressures more accurately. If I pull the oil line from pump to check volume-flow should I be able to stop it with finger ? What is the repair manual that helps the most for these cars? the motor #A62-015 I know there is tons of info here I just have to find it. Anyone ever seen a set-up like this? It's not a simple bolt on, it took some thought for sure. If I'm using this site wrong any help appreciated Thanks Getting the 34 Desoto Airflow ready for sale, this and the 33 plymouth coupe ready to drive this summer have hands full!

Anyone know of some body in the pacific north west that can do a head liner correctly on a 33 coupe??

33ply just tried loosening adjustment on bushings they move some but it looks like the bushing should squish to allow full range movement. what did you use for bushings? Mine ma be to hard.

ply 33 yes the originals are special made for sure. I came to the conclusion they have to pivot, so I can see why this style wasn't used very long. mine just had a single nut no locking system at all that seems strange but all four were like that.

thanks for the replies next shock absorber links-- hum. The rubber bushings were shot. When I saw them I said to myself I've seen this setup before, went out and looked at my 99 S10 pickup front end, yep sway bar links. They are the same size and very close to the original remains the car had. They worked with a little mod. The ink rods in the rear are worn and eroded bad were the top bushings go, over half gone, I haven't seen any of the available any where so I tried to make some. used 3/8 " mild steal rod. found some collars that would work for stops and tried it thread them, failed. got some redi-bolt fix it up but it bends when suspension hangs as when jack from the punkin the arc of the shock arm seems to indicate the the bushings have to pivot some to allow for the arc of the arm. I think I have them tightened to much causing the links to bend. seems like a poor engineered set up to me. How long can those bushings last rubbing back and forth? anyone now how to set those links up. how tight etc.?

It was bent back on both ends, passenger side back about 25- 30 degrees drivers 5+. I drilled a 3/4" hole thru 4x6 about 4' long put it in bed of pickup and ran the rod thru the whole stood on 4x6 and bent it back straight. It turned out great, just a little wiggle you can feel more than see. No collapsing pipe I can notice. Thanks for reply. Waiting for my nos tie rod ends to arrive. On the 33 Plymouth site he mentions drag link tearing out, any idea what he means?